Veefer800Canuck Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Offering to the Deity of your choice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Always been partial to ISIS. May have to sacrifice one of my cats. LOL I was ready to fire it up yesterday, connected a battery and the electrical seems a mess on that bike. Bad start switch and I think ignition switch too, plus looks like a mouse or squirl got up under the seat and chewed some of the wires. I have extras so will have to spend a little time replacing those before she will fire. I don't want to spend too much time with electrical connections. If it becomes too involved I will just do the motor swap to the other bike, and start it then with the newer electrical system. i have a sign in my shop that reads "patience"! Not in a hurry so will take my time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 New acqusitions... The shock got in trade for an extra exhuast I have and the polished motor i could not resist. was an ebay purchase. Made sense because it came with the DRP oil mod which I was going to purchase soon any way. Plus my mother lives close to the guy and i can go pick it up next month from her house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Got the white 84 bike running today. I had to replace the starter switch, the starter relay and the ignition switch. Then put some gas in my makeshift funnel gas tank, sprayed some starter fluid in the carbs and she fired up. Not running good, but for sitting 10 years, I am happy. A good carb cleaning and motor flush and I think it will run good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Here is a picture of the awesome pollished VF1000F motor in a custom chopper build. Great imagination! This is the motor that will go into my bike in the picture above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Pulled the motor from the running F bike. Not as difficult as I had thought it would be. First had to remove the exhaust, lower radiator and thurmostat housing. I was going to remove the carbs, but after tinkering for a few minutes, decided it would be easier to mess with the carbs with the motor out. I could'nt get them to break loose and did'nt want to pry them off. There was a chance the rear left carb would get in the way of removing, but was not an issue. Heres a trick a member told me upon removing the motor: First, remove the motor mounts from the Left side and the sub frame bolts, then lay the bike down on a thick piece of cardboard on the left side. Then remove the mounting bolts on the right side. Lift the frame back up and it came right out. Used a pry bar to get it to slightly corkscrew forward. I was skeptical at first of this method, but worked like a charm! To install: the same in reverse! I am going to use this F frame and install an R motor into it! gotta try it. Now I need to clean and paint the motor, and remove the carbs for cleaning and get it into the new frame ASAP while I remember where everything gos. HERES A QUESTION The front chain drive gear was obviously warn and needs replacing, I have a 17 and a 16 tooth gears that are good. I live in the Ozarks, lots of hill driving. What's the best set up for gears? front and back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 If ya'll were wondering, the collector boxes for the 84F(pictured on the right) is completely different than the 85R(left). They are not compatible if you plan on bolting them to the rear mounts. It will not leave room for the center stand on the 84F if you use the later years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 You doubted my methods?? LOL, looks like your project is coming right along, looking good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 OK, Just an update. I removed the carbs from the engine and pulled out those nasty waterpipes from the heads. I have a better set to install and I also ordered a new set of the Orings for the waterpipes. QUESTION: should I run any sealant in those? I am tempted, don't want no leaks there. Or the new ORING is enoug?. I then cleaned up the engine, painted some of it, replaced one of the valve covers with one that is better condition. Looking in the motor, on the back cylinders side, Everything seemed in pretty good shape and clean. I may decide to do a valve adjustment while it is out. I also replaced the shock with a high performance Showa coil over. Looks real cool too. And, I finished painting the lower aftermarket fairing to match as well. Any advise at this point would be helpfull!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 That polished engine looks SWEET!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 But then you need windows cut into the fairings..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VF1000RS Posted December 29, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted December 29, 2011 Don't use any sealant on the o-rings for the water pipes to the heads. Make sure that everything including the orifi to the heads are clean, the water pipes are straight and not tweaked/bent, use a small amount of lube on the o-rings if you must and push them -straight- into the heads so the o-rings don't bind up or pinch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Don't use any sealant on the o-rings for the water pipes to the heads. Make sure that everything including the orifi to the heads are clean, the water pipes are straight and not tweaked/bent, use a small amount of lube on the o-rings if you must and push them -straight- into the heads so the o-rings don't bind up or pinch. Yeah, what he said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Is there an easy way to test for leaks before I put the carbs back on and install? Hook up a water hose or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 But then you need windows cut into the fairings..... Yea, quite the quandry! However the lower fairing may protect the motor some. I'm wondering how I'm gonna keep it cleaned and polished. seems labor intensive. When i install the polished engine, I may make it a show piece and ride the 85 when I finish that build. We'll see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 The motor is in.... Yea! I installed it the same way I took it out, by laying the motor on it's side and laying the bike on top of it untill the front and top mounts were lined up on the right side, then stood the bike up. Walla! Now i have to get a jack under it to get the lower long bolts in. I will install the carbs and hook it all back together. So ya'll know, I have lots of good 1000F and 1000R parts going on ebay this week. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 It is my obsevation, since I have been building the Vf1000F and VF1000R bikes at the same time, that the R engine front head engine mounts are unneccessary if you were to put into an F frame. The F frame has a cross bar on the sub frame that stablizes the front of the frame. It appears to me that the reason the extra engine mounts are on the R bike frame because the R subframe does not have the cross bar and it uses the engine itself to stablelize the front of the frame. In my opinion, it is not neccessary to weld the extra engine mounts to the F frame if you were to do the conversion. Up for discussion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted January 13, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted January 13, 2012 It is my obsevation, since I have been building the Vf1000F and VF1000R bikes at the same time, that the R engine front head engine mounts are unneccessary if you were to put into an F frame. The F frame has a cross bar on the sub frame that stablizes the front of the frame. It appears to me that the reason the extra engine mounts are on the R bike frame because the R subframe does not have the cross bar and it uses the engine itself to stablelize the front of the frame. In my opinion, it is not neccessary to weld the extra engine mounts to the F frame if you were to do the conversion. Up for discussion? Makes sense to me. They are close to each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 I decided to go with the carbs from the original motor, since they were the lowest miles, plus the previous owner was smart when he removed them and drained the remaining fuel. I opened them up and cleaned them this weekend. They weren't too bad. A couple of the idle jets were clogged, and one of the slides seemed a little gritty so I switched it out with a smoother one. Polished them up and now they are ready to install. I see the light at the end of the tunnel! Just got to put her back together now. My biggest concern, is leaks in the water inlets. I will post some new pics tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 regarding the extra mounts on wider head engines - I've replaced my 1000FE engine with line bored FF item, wasn't bothered about extra mounts, been riding it for about 500miles now and can see no difference to frame flexing or vibes.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Question: I have cleaned the carbs and have attempted to reinstall them, not spent a lot of time yet. Does anyone have a system or technique to reinstalling them and keeping all the connectors together. I would appreciate the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 post a pic of what you are trying to do. If put together correctly, the carbs should not have any connectors that need to stay together. If your carb insulators have dried out and are hard rather than pliable, it will be a real pain. If they are pliable, put the fronts in first and then the rears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 if you mean putting carbs back onto the engine then you can: - heatup carb rubbers with a heatgun or boiling water to make them soft again - oil them to aid assembly - front ones go in first then rear ones at the angle, look it up in here, plenty previous advice given Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 if you mean putting carbs back onto the engine then you can: - heatup carb rubbers with a heatgun or boiling water to make them soft again - oil them to aid assembly - front ones go in first then rear ones at the angle, look it up in here, plenty previous advice given Thanks, I will try these methods, i am going to put them on today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thx113 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Are the engine casings for the VF1000F the same as for the 1000R? If not, are the differences significant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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