Member Contributer Rice Posted October 22, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2011 So, I'm sitting here on Friday night trying to install a stator. Buttoned up the engine cover and now, how in the hek do I pull the wires to the other side? I had to cut the stator plug off to remove it. Now, I am agonizing ver the possibility that I might have to remove the throttle body. Isn't there an other way? Using a coat hunger to thread the plug through and under the TB inside the V doesn't seem to work. Should I give up and remove the TB or has anyone done it with out? I am also contemplating cutting and re-soldering the plug. Pease help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted October 22, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2011 If you pulled it through originally without tying some string to it (yes, this is the usual "trick"), then your best bet to get it back across is a wire coat hanger straightened out. Tie the end of the wire to it using electrical tape and then wiggle it through the V of the motor. There is space there, trust me! As for cutting off the plug, yeah I did that with all my stator jobs. Most folks don't use the stock plug, they either replace it with bullet connectors or hard wire it to the regulator. It does not matter which yellow wire connects to the regulator-side yellow wires - they are all the same (it's AC power remember). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted October 22, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2011 Yup...before I removed the old one, I taped a fish wire to it and then pulled it back thru in reverse...it was still a bitch of a tight fit to get the wires pulled thru... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Knute Posted October 22, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2011 So, I'm sitting here on Friday night trying to install a stator. Buttoned up the engine cover and now, how in the hek do I pull the wires to the other side? I had to cut the stator plug off to remove it. Now, I am agonizing ver the possibility that I might have to remove the throttle body. Isn't there an other way? Using a coat hunger to thread the plug through and under the TB inside the V doesn't seem to work. Should I give up and remove the TB or has anyone done it with out? I am also contemplating cutting and re-soldering the plug. Pease help! Coat hanger, or some type of fish-tape, also it just might help to lift the tank and remove the airbox, that could give you a little better view and a little more to work with. You'll get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted October 22, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2011 Thanks a million, guys! I think I will go with Kaldek and just get rid of the plugs and solder the wires. I've also doubled the reds to the battery and re-routed the monitor wire. Just to confirm - the monitor wire goes to the positive battery terminal, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted October 23, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 23, 2011 She's alive! 14.7V at all RPM now all the way from idle to 9 grand. A little less with high beams and grip heaters on. I think this will do. What was done: - New OEM stator - Three stator wires soldered and shrink wrapped to the RR. OEM plug removed. - Additional two output red 12 Ga wires soldered onto the OEM ones and routed to the battery + terminal with 30Amp in-line fues on each - Monitor wire cut and re-routed to the battery + terminal with 10A fuse. - Two green ground RR wires commoned and an extra ground added to the frame on one of the RR attachment bolts. - OEM output RR plug connected back to the harness. If this don't do it, I don't know what will... And now, for some props to this community. If not for he info and help from this group, I would have taken the mess to the dealer, who would have just replaced the stator at a huge cost only to have the same issue appear again in a few years or sooner. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Congrats on getting it fixed! You could have used the Stator plug by removing the connectors from it prior to pulling the wires through the frame. I am not sure I agree with your now 90 amps of potential...30 on each leg could add up to 90 before a fuse blows. The VFRness, which is very similar in concept, uses a 20 amp on it's 1 fuse and a 20 amp on the OEM fuse holder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted October 26, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 26, 2011 Congrats on getting it fixed! You could have used the Stator plug by removing the connectors from it prior to pulling the wires through the frame. I am not sure I agree with your now 90 amps of potential...30 on each leg could add up to 90 before a fuse blows. The VFRness, which is very similar in concept, uses a 20 amp on it's 1 fuse and a 20 amp on the OEM fuse holder. Tightwad, I didn't realize that they were additive... Should I use 10A fuses on each of the two RR output wires and 20A in place of the OEM 30A fuse? Thanks again for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Congrats on getting it fixed! You could have used the Stator plug by removing the connectors from it prior to pulling the wires through the frame. I am not sure I agree with your now 90 amps of potential...30 on each leg could add up to 90 before a fuse blows. The VFRness, which is very similar in concept, uses a 20 amp on it's 1 fuse and a 20 amp on the OEM fuse holder. Tightwad, I didn't realize that they were additive... Should I use 10A fuses on each of the two RR output wires and 20A in place of the OEM 30A fuse? Thanks again for the help! it's not really additive, just potentially additive. The VFRness used to be shipped with 15A fuses on that principle but people found that the VFRness would instead assume more of the load....over 15A and then blow the fuse, transferring the entire load to the original fuse holder and blowing that fuse. I use 20A fuses now and haven't had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted October 27, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 27, 2011 Congrats on getting it fixed! You could have used the Stator plug by removing the connectors from it prior to pulling the wires through the frame. I am not sure I agree with your now 90 amps of potential...30 on each leg could add up to 90 before a fuse blows. The VFRness, which is very similar in concept, uses a 20 amp on it's 1 fuse and a 20 amp on the OEM fuse holder. Tightwad, I didn't realize that they were additive... Should I use 10A fuses on each of the two RR output wires and 20A in place of the OEM 30A fuse? Thanks again for the help! it's not really additive, just potentially additive. The VFRness used to be shipped with 15A fuses on that principle but people found that the VFRness would instead assume more of the load....over 15A and then blow the fuse, transferring the entire load to the original fuse holder and blowing that fuse. I use 20A fuses now and haven't had a problem. OK Got it. I shoulda just ordered the VFRness. By all accounts it is an excellent piece of kit. But I already had all the ingredients at hand and enjoy tinkering when I can. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 No reason to order one if you can roll your own! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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