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How to tell if it's the R/R or the stator?


Guest glib

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It does sound like a dud regulator again.

FYI, I just did a voltage drop test on my bike and the results are:

Battery voltage at idle: 13.6 volts

Negative lead voltage drop: 0.14 volts (in spec)

Postive lead voltage drop: 0.4 volts (yikes!)

Regulator voltage at idle: 14.2 volts

That works out correct - 14.2 volts minus the voltage drops (0.14 + 0.4) = 13.66 volts. So my charging system is fine but I have some resistance in the wires between the regulator and the battery (goes via the 30 amp main fuse B). Now I need a fuse bypass wire to test across the Main Fuse B terminals so I can see if the resistance is at the fuse or somewhere further up.

What's funny though is I have a secondary heavy-gauge wire running from one of the red wires on the regulator direct to the battery (with its own fuse holder) as a roadside emergency-recovery for if I ever melt the 30 amp fuse holder again. I hooked it up, and sure enough there's only a 0.3 volt drop on that wire, but the battery voltage was all over the place man. It was jumping around anywhere from 13.7 up to 14.9 volts. Most interesting. I guess this means the regulator was unable to get a bead on what the battery voltage was and was regulating at an inconsistent voltage.

I think this means I have some other dodgy wiring somewhere. Not that it matters much because I've got an entire new wiring harness coming from the USA soon as part of my 2006 ECU upgrade. :)

Hmm yeah I think I've definitely got a few losses in my harness, but it's disturbing me that I'm only reading 12.8V at the R/R. I ran through the electrosport flowchart again and it's still saying both my stator and R/R are 'good', but my voltage before I even hit the harness is bad. I'm out of ideas?

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Hmm yeah I think I've definitely got a few losses in my harness, but it's disturbing me that I'm only reading 12.8V at the R/R. I ran through the electrosport flowchart again and it's still saying both my stator and R/R are 'good', but my voltage before I even hit the harness is bad. I'm out of ideas?

We've got to get a known good regulator into that bike mate. This is exactly what the shop is going to do, so you may as well do it if you can get access to another VFRD member. You don't even need to remove yours, just unplug it and plug theirs in for 5 minutes.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hmm yeah I think I've definitely got a few losses in my harness, but it's disturbing me that I'm only reading 12.8V at the R/R. I ran through the electrosport flowchart again and it's still saying both my stator and R/R are 'good', but my voltage before I even hit the harness is bad. I'm out of ideas?

We've got to get a known good regulator into that bike mate. This is exactly what the shop is going to do, so you may as well do it if you can get access to another VFRD member. You don't even need to remove yours, just unplug it and plug theirs in for 5 minutes.

Well I took it into the shop Tues, July 26th. Turns out that despite all my testing, it was the stator after all. They pulled the coil and one phase was roasted black. Honda had a 2 week+ backorder on new stators but they found a Ricks one in Quebec which just arrived this morning. Unfortunately after they put it in it was putting out 140V at 5000rpm. So they're sending it back and ordering a proper honda OEM one. I'm hoping they're slightly less backordered now, but it looks like I'm going to be down for another 1-2 weeks.

This has essentially eaten my entire summer riding season. I got to ride it in the cold early spring, and I'll get the fall, but zero summer riding.

Should have bought suzuki...

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glad your getting it resolved , this happens pretty often . The aftermarket are far worse than OEM

For some reason People think the oem is bad, so why not go aftermarket and save money, now they have real problems, unfortunately you bought someone elses problem they were pulling their hair out also.

Im glad your getting it fixed, BTW suzuki oem stators are half the life of a VFR stator Typically, so you might want to rethink again.

Just so you know a oem VFR stator, is a post 50,000 mile stator, your just damn unlucky if it fails before that, if the failure wasnt created by some other part.

Motorcycle stators, are typically sub 50 ,000 mile Life, anything over 50,000 mile stator life is above average, as most motorcycles brands fail way less miles. The VFR is considered above average stator life(normally), they typically exceed on average well above 50,000 miles.

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  • 1 month later...

I've checked and rechecked the voltages on the stator. All three pins show 24V at idle, and (when off) they all show 0.4 ohm resistance between them. Both of these seem to be in spec entirely.

One of the tests that seems to be missing in this post is the third "yellow stator wires-to-ground" test (while the bike is off). As stated in the manual if there is ANY continuity/resistance when measuring between the frame and the yellow wires, then bingo!, you need a new stator.

Glib, I know you got yours fixed, but I hope this helps someone else who stumbles upon this.

P.S. I'm heading out to my Scarlett to drop in a new stator right now :laughing6-hehe: (49,500 miles almost made 50k)

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.

P.S. I'm heading out to my Scarlett to drop in a new stator right now :laughing6-hehe: (49,500 miles almost made 50k)

ever stator Ive ever had fail, I go straight for stator to frame, Never had to go past that point, Voltage is a waste of time, cause you can have voltage and still be shorting out.

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Just a word of suggestion from someone who's experienced this sort of thing first hand, while on a trip, in another country, without sufficient personal mechanical knowledge.

1- change both

2- order the parts from wiremybike.com, member here (tightwad) runs it

3- do this before traveling great distances

4- when travelling great distances, and not doing 1 & 2, you are best to travel with HispanicSlammer & Radar

That's all I have to say about that.

post-6587-0-34252700-1316790574_thumb.jp

Stator-ectomy and a rectal regulator rectafier refit in the parking lot of the BW hotel, Eureka, CA.

Parts shipped direct from wiremybike, were at the hotel waiting for us when we arrived - saved around 60% from dealer cost & 100% saved on labour.

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Just a word of suggestion from someone who's experienced this sort of thing first hand, while on a trip, in another country, without sufficient personal mechanical knowledge.

1- change both

2- order the parts from wiremybike.com, member here (tightwad) runs it

3- do this before traveling great distances

4- when travelling great distances, and not doing 1 & 2, you are best to travel with HispanicSlammer & Radar

That's all I have to say about that.

post-6587-0-34252700-1316790574_thumb.jp

Stator-ectomy and a rectal regulator rectafier refit in the parking lot of the BW hotel, Eureka, CA.

Parts shipped direct from wiremybike, were at the hotel waiting for us when we arrived - saved around 60% from dealer cost & 100% saved on labour.

Been there done that and your right REPLACE EVERYTHING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  • 1 month later...

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