VFR frankenvifferized into an Adventure Bike?

[Lobster]

OK...at the risk of having some serious flamage thrown my way...I was thinking...

I'm about to buy back my 2000 VFR from the chap who bought it from me two years ago. I am also planning on a trip up the Dalton in 2012 and the wifey aint too awful pleased about having the VFR back and another bike next year (likely a BMW 1150GS). So my question is, can I combine the two platforms on one bike? Can I make a respectable adventure bike from a VFR? Would I want to?

Dry weight of a GS and a VFR are within 25-30 lbs.

Use an LSL Superbike handlebar kit and put on a sweet set of BMW like wide, straight bars with heated grips and hand guards.

Get new wheels and new spacers of size which would accommodate some DOT knobbies.

Would have to mod the front fender for said front knobbies.

Fab a bitchin crash bar system much like I've seen on VFR police bikes.

Mount some bitchin driving lights to said bitchin crash bars.

Pick up some fugly big ol' aluminum saddle bags as is so widely used on other adventure bikes.

Lower pegs with BLS lowering blocks.

Already have Kanadian Ken top box mounting plate for rear box or extra gas can.

Am I crazy or might this be a cool project?

Suspension travel could be an issue for sure, but as long as I keep to fire roads and dirt roads and don't plan on bouncing through creeks and over boulders....

[gll429]

hey.. i have seen a sportster turned into a flat out dirt bike..

if this was my project.... i would get a set of enduro forks and rear shock.. ditch the body work, add 3 or 4 head lights of dif sizes... crashbars, and yes.. make some cool boxes :fing02:

[YoshiHNS]

Possible, but probably pretty difficult. You essentially need forks that are going to give you a heap more ground clearance. Not even going to think about the rear suspension right now.

Is it possible. Maybe. But I'm not gonna do your homework.

[tok tokkie]

Basically you are wanting to convert your bike into a Cross Runner. Look at the thread about it. Suspension travel & ground clearance will limit the roughness of your routes. Need a decent bash plate to protect the sump. Four cylinder power/torque characteristics also are not good for really technical riding - but anyway that is not your aim.

[SEBSPEED]

I like where you're headed w/ this, I think it's perfectly doable. Especially if my suspicions about your possible connections in the auto industry are correct - you might have access to folks who can help you with bending/cutting/welding/fab in general? I think your stock suspension would be fine for turf slightly rougher than a fire trail/gravel road - if you want to traverse some "real" terrain, a new suspension setup is probably a must.

I added some notes/suggestions to your post below.

OK...at the risk of having some serious flamage thrown my way...I was thinking...

I'm about to buy back my 2000 VFR from the chap who bought it from me two years ago. I am also planning on a trip up the Dalton in 2012 and the wifey aint too awful pleased about having the VFR back and another bike next year (likely a BMW 1150GS). So my question is, can I combine the two platforms on one bike? Can I make a respectable adventure bike from a VFR? Would I want to?

Dry weight of a GS and a VFR are within 25-30 lbs. That's good, still heavy, but good.

Use an LSL Superbike handlebar kit and put on a sweet set of BMW like wide, straight bars with heated grips and hand guards. Don't spend so much money - get a set of universal risers and a dirt bike bar of your preferred bend instead. You'll likely need longer brake and throttle lines to go along with this. I know you can handle the install, it's not too difficult.

Get new wheels and new spacers of size which would accommodate some DOT knobbies. Take a look at Dunlop D616 tires. Those come in VFR sizes and have decent rough-road tread. I think Avon makes something similar(Distanzia) in a 160 that would fit a 4th gen wheel(which bolts straight onto every other VFR), but no Avon front in 120/17.

Would have to mod the front fender for said front knobbies. Not w/ the tires listed above.

Fab a bitchin crash bar system much like I've seen on VFR police bikes.

Mount some bitchin driving lights to said bitchin crash bars.

Pick up some fugly big ol' aluminum saddle bags as is so widely used on other adventure bikes. Ammo cases? :biggrin:

Lower pegs with BLS lowering blocks.

Already have Kanadian Ken top box mounting plate for rear box or extra gas can.

Am I crazy or might this be a cool project?

Suspension travel could be an issue for sure, but as long as I keep to fire roads and dirt roads and don't plan on bouncing through creeks and over boulders.... You should be ok w/ stock travel. I would go to a light oil and raise the height of the oil in the tubes - this will soften up your valving and aid in bottoming resistance.

EDIT: I'd be tempted to get some spare side fairings and cut them through the middle - give the bike more of a Strom look(half fairing) - will give you a tad more ground clearance, and it will be easier to fit those crash bars this way.

ps - bring plenty of spare wire and r/r's if you're gonna run all those lights! :biggrin:

[Kel]

Why not? Here's an off road R1

and a trick CBR900RR

[flavadave]

Math is the most important factor.

Cost is a mathmatical you have to deal with but, that being said....

The fork length is to short but by adding a longer fork you will also change the rake which is good because you want it to be more slack and turn a bit slower. So just adding a longer fork will serve both. This will however have a negative effect on your alreadly short swing arm. You will need to fab a longer rear swing arm and increase the amount of travel by a few inches. Now you have increased the leverage on the head tube and the points where the shock mounts. You may need to gusset the alloy frame and thicken the shock mounts by adding more material. That rear shock has to go by the way. It was never meant to take all that leverage the longer chainstays will add. When compressed the spring is going to violently unload making the ass end more like a catapolt when it unleashes the sprung weight. Nothing weird at all. Even my friends brand new KTM 4 stroker needed a better rear spring before the bike could be ridden right. In turns the rear end was tryin to buck him off or kick out because the load was too great. Once the bike had a progressive spring and better rebound controls it would sit just long enough in a corner (under load) to really lay down its power.

So far though the idea is very do-able.

You could leave some of the plastic by finding a natural point to trim off what you don't want. If you can find someone to help you fab a one or two piece armor system it be to your benefit to do lots of home work. The Discover 90 is a great example. You can reach the transmission from the top or the bottom because of removable panels. Pretty cool really because when knee deep in mud you can still get to linkage. So a thick skid plate is awesome but leave a hole for your socket to drain oil and remove your filter. You have points to use as mounting points now if you use a slightly harder, longer bolt at spots like the foot pegs. If you can find a stock set of pipes you can cut them into patch sections. Bang them open just a bit and weld them to the stock pipes where you cannot cover the stock pipes with armor skid plating.

The cooling system will need some thought so that mud is not and issue.

What else?

Oh, how about a bigger chain ring maybe 60 plus teeth. Sure you would cut off the top end but you will still be pulling triple digits without an issue. Look at stunt bikes, they may have 300 teeth and still get 100 plus mph, red lined but still...

I like the idea. Hey it is your bike brother, do what you want.

:fing02:

[SEBSPEED]

Math is the most important factor.

Cost is a mathmatical you have to deal with but, that being said....

The fork length is to short but by adding a longer fork you will also change the rake which is good because you want it to be more slack and turn a bit slower. So just adding a longer fork will serve both. This will however have a negative effect on your alreadly short swing arm. You will need to fab a longer rear swing arm and increase the amount of travel by a few inches. Now you have increased the leverage on the head tube and the points where the shock mounts. You may need to gusset the alloy frame and thicken the shock mounts by adding more material. That rear shock has to go by the way. It was never meant to take all that leverage the longer chainstays will add. When compressed the spring is going to violently unload making the ass end more like a catapolt when it unleashes the sprung weight. Nothing weird at all. Even my friends brand new KTM 4 stroker needed a better rear spring before the bike could be ridden right. In turns the rear end was tryin to buck him off or kick out because the load was too great. Once the bike had a progressive spring and better rebound controls it would sit just long enough in a corner (under load) to really lay down its power.

I don't agree with this - not for his intended use. I don't believe he'll be running hare scrambles or doing any serious off roading.

The fork situation is simple - there is ~1.5" of tube that sticks out above the stock triple clamp for clip on mounting. Push the tubes down so they're flush before installing dirt bike bars with risers and that's taken care of . I honestly believe the frame and swingarm are up to the task as-is. they're already much beefier than 90% of the current crop of MX bikes. A shorter dogbone link and/or a shim under the top shock mount will raise the rear height.

Can it be totally revamped to make it totally off road capable, sure! Does it need to be? Probably not...

[flavadave]

Math is the most important factor.

Cost is a mathmatical you have to deal with but, that being said....

The fork length is to short but by adding a longer fork you will also change the rake which is good because you want it to be more slack and turn a bit slower. So just adding a longer fork will serve both. This will however have a negative effect on your alreadly short swing arm. You will need to fab a longer rear swing arm and increase the amount of travel by a few inches. Now you have increased the leverage on the head tube and the points where the shock mounts. You may need to gusset the alloy frame and thicken the shock mounts by adding more material. That rear shock has to go by the way. It was never meant to take all that leverage the longer chainstays will add. When compressed the spring is going to violently unload making the ass end more like a catapolt when it unleashes the sprung weight. Nothing weird at all. Even my friends brand new KTM 4 stroker needed a better rear spring before the bike could be ridden right. In turns the rear end was tryin to buck him off or kick out because the load was too great. Once the bike had a progressive spring and better rebound controls it would sit just long enough in a corner (under load) to really lay down its power.

I don't agree with this - not for his intended use. I don't believe he'll be running hare scrambles or doing any serious off roading.

The fork situation is simple - there is ~1.5" of tube that sticks out above the stock triple clamp for clip on mounting. Push the tubes down so they're flush before installing dirt bike bars with risers and that's taken care of . I honestly believe the frame and swingarm are up to the task as-is. they're already much beefier than 90% of the current crop of MX bikes. A shorter dogbone link and/or a shim under the top shock mount will raise the rear height.

Can it be totally revamped to make it totally off road capable, sure! Does it need to be? Probably not...

Maybe I am over thinking it but, that is me. Then again if you go to the Adventure sites those guys seem to try any thing under that sun with the bikes they ride. I think the idea is rather cool and I wish him success. I like it when people think outside the box, it is what makes life interesting.