spud786 Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 Well, same problems to me. Fried coil on my 05 model with only 32.000Km on the counter. I was lucky enough to get on the ship and bring it to Greece with the help of another VFR rider of course, because it broke down while I was on a trip to Italy. With no options available for an OEM relacement part, I decided to get fixed the faulty coil by an electrician. The guy put new thicker wire, than the OEM, and did a "star connection" type on the wires, comparing to the OEM "triangle connection" type. Of course the OEM connector on the stator was cut off and the wires were soldered using proper high temperature proof insulation. The result is 14,85volts measured on the battery at idle. On 4.000rpm I get 14,9volts. My first impression is that the bike is more "alive" in low revs and eager to rev up. Also the temperature measures I am getting on the panel are lower than before in general, even lower that any other VFR I' m riding with. Do you think that I can continue riding with this hand-made coil or put an OEM and get on with it? Your voltage reads sound normal, I see no reason to change , if he did a good job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 I am having the exact,same problem. New Rick's stator putting out 39v consistantly at all leads at idle and way over 100v at 4k RPM. Still only 12.4V at the battery terminals at 5K RPM with the high beams on. New Rick's R/R put on yesterday, same damn thing. The wiring harness was replaced in the recall. I rode the bike 30 miles today with the high beams on and my new parts installed. 11.6 volts at the battery when finished, of course the bike would not start. Any ideas? JC, I was wondering if your numbers may be too high? I've been perusing the thread regarding tips to help our electrical system and the output from the stator is (sposed?!) to be around 20v at idle and 60ishv at 5K. Anyone have some input? My bike tested 12V at idle and 65V at 5K. Which numbers or do they all show 'good' as long as they are low at idle and high at 5K? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted June 17, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 17, 2010 Well, same problems to me. Fried coil on my 05 model with only 32.000Km on the counter. I was lucky enough to get on the ship and bring it to Greece with the help of another VFR rider of course, because it broke down while I was on a trip to Italy. With no options available for an OEM relacement part, I decided to get fixed the faulty coil by an electrician. The guy put new thicker wire, than the OEM, and did a "star connection" type on the wires, comparing to the OEM "triangle connection" type. Of course the OEM connector on the stator was cut off and the wires were soldered using proper high temperature proof insulation. The result is 14,85volts measured on the battery at idle. On 4.000rpm I get 14,9volts. My first impression is that the bike is more "alive" in low revs and eager to rev up. Also the temperature measures I am getting on the panel are lower than before in general, even lower that any other VFR I' m riding with. Do you think that I can continue riding with this hand-made coil or put an OEM and get on with it? It should be fine, but note that a Star-wired stator (coil) pumps out less current than a delta-wound stator. Any bike with high current demands should use a delta-wound (triangle) stator, but having said that I see no problem with riding your bike as it is now. From the HowStuffWorks website: The two basic stator winding designs are delta wound and wye (Star) style. Delta wound are easily identifiable by their shape, as they're triangular. These windings allow for a high current flow at lower RPM. Wye (Star) windings resemble the flux capacitor seen in "Back to the Future." These windings are ideal for diesel engines, as they produce higher voltage than delta stators at even lower RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted June 17, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 17, 2010 I am having the exact,same problem. New Rick's stator putting out 39v consistantly at all leads at idle and way over 100v at 4k RPM. Still only 12.4V at the battery terminals at 5K RPM with the high beams on. New Rick's R/R put on yesterday, same damn thing. The wiring harness was replaced in the recall. I rode the bike 30 miles today with the high beams on and my new parts installed. 11.6 volts at the battery when finished, of course the bike would not start. Any ideas? JC, I was wondering if your numbers may be too high? I've been perusing the thread regarding tips to help our electrical system and the output from the stator is (sposed?!) to be around 20v at idle and 60ishv at 5K. Anyone have some input? My bike tested 12V at idle and 65V at 5K. Which numbers or do they all show 'good' as long as they are low at idle and high at 5K? Too much voltage and you'll cook the regulator. A stator putting out 100 volts at 5,000rpm could be putting out so much AC voltage at high rpms that the regulator fails. Maybe it will fail the bad direction and cook the battery, or maybe it will fail the good way and just stop charging completely. I think it really depends on how those Zener diodes inside tend to fail and how tough they are. The more I think about it, the more those MOSFET-based regulators appeal to me. As an R/C plane fan - particularly electric planes - the electrics are reversed. You take a DC input and conver it to AC - but the problems are similar. Linear regulators are considered crap, and switching regulators (MOSFET-based) asre considered the best. The linear ones tend to fry themselves all the time, the MOSFETs do not. I think it's good advice for anyone with problems to switch to a MOSFET-based regulator. It will handle more current and will deal with over voltage better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 I am having the exact,same problem. New Rick's stator putting out 39v consistantly at all leads at idle and way over 100v at 4k RPM. Still only 12.4V at the battery terminals at 5K RPM with the high beams on. New Rick's R/R put on yesterday, same damn thing. The wiring harness was replaced in the recall. I rode the bike 30 miles today with the high beams on and my new parts installed. 11.6 volts at the battery when finished, of course the bike would not start. Any ideas? JC, I was wondering if your numbers may be too high? I've been perusing the thread regarding tips to help our electrical system and the output from the stator is (sposed?!) to be around 20v at idle and 60ishv at 5K. Anyone have some input? My bike tested 12V at idle and 65V at 5K. Which numbers or do they all show 'good' as long as they are low at idle and high at 5K? Too much voltage and you'll cook the regulator. A stator putting out 100 volts at 5,000rpm could be putting out so much AC voltage at high rpms that the regulator fails. Maybe it will fail the bad direction and cook the battery, or maybe it will fail the good way and just stop charging completely. I think it really depends on how those Zener diodes inside tend to fail and how tough they are. The more I think about it, the more those MOSFET-based regulators appeal to me. As an R/C plane fan - particularly electric planes - the electrics are reversed. You take a DC input and conver it to AC - but the problems are similar. Linear regulators are considered crap, and switching regulators (MOSFET-based) asre considered the best. The linear ones tend to fry themselves all the time, the MOSFETs do not. I think it's good advice for anyone with problems to switch to a MOSFET-based regulator. It will handle more current and will deal with over voltage better. but then that begs the question.... where can i get such a thing as a MOSFET type that we know works with our system... or did i miss something and we already have MOSFETs....? i used to have R?C cars/trucks and MOSFETs were the sh$^!!!!! at least for durability. these kind of electrical issues worry me sometimes..... cause i don't want something happening miles away from home.... if near home.... no biggie. thanks to Uncle Sugah, i got my electronics troubleshooting training.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted July 26, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 26, 2010 Reviving this thread because I'm in the crapper with my electrical issues now. Please see my thread "Dang! It's smoking". Maybe I should just bite the big one and replace the stator, R/R together? The battery is only about 3 months old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 Reviving this thread because I'm in the crapper with my electrical issues now. Please see my thread "Dang! It's smoking". Maybe I should just bite the big one and replace the stator, R/R together? The battery is only about 3 months old. what ohms scale did you use to do the stator ground test on the yellow wires to ground ? what was the reading between each of the 3 wires amongst themselves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Knife Posted July 27, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 27, 2010 Reviving this thread because I'm in the crapper with my electrical issues now. Please see my thread "Dang! It's smoking". Maybe I should just bite the big one and replace the stator, R/R together? The battery is only about 3 months old. I just recently replaced the stator, R/R, battery, and repaired the wiring and VFRness all at the same time. Now for the first time since I bought the bike, I get the correct readings when off, at idle, and at 5000 rpm. About 1500 miles on the new components so far, and all is still well. Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted July 27, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 27, 2010 Reviving this thread because I'm in the crapper with my electrical issues now. Please see my thread "Dang! It's smoking". Maybe I should just bite the big one and replace the stator, R/R together? The battery is only about 3 months old. what ohms scale did you use to do the stator ground test on the yellow wires to ground ? what was the reading between each of the 3 wires amongst themselves Because I'm a mechanical midget, I forgot (and I don't know my way around a multi-meter very well) to test anything other than the charging voltage at the battery which was 14.54V...what is usually is. I just cut out the burned connectors and wire and butt-spliced in some new 14 GA wire. Going to ride it and see what happens. If I burn up my new splices then it's new stator, R/R, battery I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertoRC46 Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Well, same problems to me. Fried coil on my 05 model with only 32.000Km on the counter. I was lucky enough to get on the ship and bring it to Greece with the help of another VFR rider of course, because it broke down while I was on a trip to Italy. With no options available for an OEM relacement part, I decided to get fixed the faulty coil by an electrician. The guy put new thicker wire, than the OEM, and did a "star connection" type on the wires, comparing to the OEM "triangle connection" type. Of course the OEM connector on the stator was cut off and the wires were soldered using proper high temperature proof insulation. The result is 14,85volts measured on the battery at idle. On 4.000rpm I get 14,9volts. My first impression is that the bike is more "alive" in low revs and eager to rev up. Also the temperature measures I am getting on the panel are lower than before in general, even lower that any other VFR I' m riding with. Do you think that I can continue riding with this hand-made coil or put an OEM and get on with it? Your voltage reads sound normal, I see no reason to change , if he did a good job After 1.500km I am having the same problems. The battery is not charging, and the bike has not enough power to run. The bike is at a Honda dealer now and I decided to replace the stator, R/R and battery with new OEM parts. Apart from these I will do all the insulation work on the connectors as many suggest here. I hope to get through with the problems now, because I am in front of a nervous breakdown. I am taking my summertime leave in a few days and I don't have a bike to ride. :angry: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted August 6, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted August 6, 2010 but then that begs the question.... where can i get such a thing as a MOSFET type that we know works with our system... or did i miss something and we already have MOSFETs....? i used to have R?C cars/trucks and MOSFETs were the sh$^!!!!! at least for durability. these kind of electrical issues worry me sometimes..... cause i don't want something happening miles away from home.... if near home.... no biggie. thanks to Uncle Sugah, i got my electronics troubleshooting training.... Yamaha R1 regulator from 2007 models onwards. It's the FH012AA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 but then that begs the question.... where can i get such a thing as a MOSFET type that we know works with our system... or did i miss something and we already have MOSFETs....? i used to have R?C cars/trucks and MOSFETs were the sh$^!!!!! at least for durability. these kind of electrical issues worry me sometimes..... cause i don't want something happening miles away from home.... if near home.... no biggie. thanks to Uncle Sugah, i got my electronics troubleshooting training.... Yamaha R1 regulator from 2007 models onwards. It's the FH012AA. You can also order a stock sized/connected R/R from me that is MOSFET. It is made by Ricks, but is available on my site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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