Guest Frozen Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 (edited) 5th gen grab rails do fit. ^) For the assembly you will need: -5th gen VFR (with or without tail/exhaust/tank) -6th gen tail&exhaust (get the Whole tail. Every part can be mounted) -6th gen tank (I think it will work also with 5th gen. Didn't try) -A professional welder. You and your "+1" will sit on it.. do I have to add smth else? -A professional CNC'er (for the same reason) Step 1: The bracket. Due to the difference in the construction, we'll need to cancel the two upper mounting holes and construct a bracket that will hold our new tail instead. Here's the sketch: * remark* the distance between the two holes must be 38mm instead 40.. My bad. The Material. The Yield strength of a material must be approx. 90 kg/mm2, to ensure you won't feel your rear wheel too close.. The materials available are 43XX steels (4320, 4340). I used 416 stainless steel, after cementation to 90 kg/mm2. No need to tell, that all the parts are Argon welded both sides. Step 2: The Spacers. You can see that the 6th gen subframe's lower tubes are situated much wider then the original 5th gen. So, I placed the spacers between the tubes and the frame "ears". Dimensions: Outer diameter-25mm. Inner diameter-10mm. Length- 22mm. Each. Choose any material you like. Step 3: The Big Cut. Yes, we're going to cut things! First are the too long "legs" of the subframe, that we are going to cut in the middle. As you can see in the sketch the "ear" is a bit inside the leg itself. It's very important to keep it so after we cut the leg. So, first remove the welding, then remove the ear from the tube, then cut it, then return the ears back, then weld. Use the long bolt from step 2 to ensure the ears are welded collinear to each other. I didn't do that.. The cut piece of the tube is 125mm long. But I leave these measurements to you. It's better to cut less then more, cause you won't be able to bring in back. Step 4: khmm.. All the stuff that was in the plastics of the old tail has to be moved. Here's my R/R's new home: Edited December 9, 2009 by Frozen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer creggur Posted November 24, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted November 24, 2009 I guess we could take your word for it that this works. Without pictures, however, we won't... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Actually, I've been thinking about this for quite some time. I'd love to see the final result and am interested in how the exhaust system flanges up. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Hey Frozen, thanks for posting this topic. May I suggest that you add your following posts to Post #1 by editing, instead of replying? It would make this much easier to read, as it's an interesting topic and many people will reply before you can finish all your updates. :biggrin: Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted November 24, 2009 Forum CEO Share Posted November 24, 2009 did a merge post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 That looks pretty darned good! Just need some passenger pegs and your gauge surround! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Frozen Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Added some new content. Can someone help me with the seat lock? Where do I place it? I have both 5th and 6th gen locks, but I have no idea where to put it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Added some new content. Can someone help me with the seat lock? Where do I place it? I have both 5th and 6th gen locks, but I have no idea where to put it! On the 6th gen, it goes near the battery, at the very front of the little black left side filler piece. You have the right sidee filler in place in one of your pics, do you have the left as well? There's an upside down U-shape cutout in it, that's where the lock goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Frozen Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 (edited) Yeah, I know..I had to cut this part of that black plastic.. you may see it on the last picture with the cable sticking out of it.. Any other suggestions? Someone told me to put it between the exhausts, where the license plate goes. But, I think it's gonna be too hot to open my seat after ride.. no? Edited December 10, 2009 by Frozen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Harbourone Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Yeah, I know..I had to cut this part of that black plastic.. you may see it on the last picture with the cable sticking out of it.. Any other suggestions? Someone told me to put it between the exhausts, where the license plate goes. But, I think it's gonna be too hot to open my seat after ride.. no? How did the exhaust match up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted June 3, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 3, 2011 Yeah, I know..I had to cut this part of that black plastic.. you may see it on the last picture with the cable sticking out of it.. Any other suggestions? Someone told me to put it between the exhausts, where the license plate goes. But, I think it's gonna be too hot to open my seat after ride.. no? It won't be too hot if it isn't touching exhaust pipes and it won't. Any distance between the lock and the pipe has air moving and will not be hot at all. Love your work, BTW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted June 4, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 4, 2011 Wow, first time I've seen the completed project. Looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Frozen Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Hi guys! There's been nearly a year since I've been to VFRD last time. there been some other modifications since then: 1. R1 R/R installed in the front of the bike on the coil #1 fittings 2. peg raisers of my own stolen design. look great! 3. My exhaust pipes got rust.. 4. My rear shock nearly passed away. No issues with the tail since the installation! etc, etc... Some pics 2 years after.. I've used 7075 Al as a material, as there are some sharp corners.. but you can use steel as well.. BTW, does anyone plans to come to Israel in the next few months? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Hi Frozen. Maybe some stainless steel Delkevic header pipes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Frozen Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 I'm looking on this pic for a year or so :). I guess I'll bring 'em eventually. BTW, I'm planning to get rid of the 6th gen cans, and install some compact exhaust. Maybe from Kawa Versys, or a 2008 CBR1000RR.. Is the 929/954 rear shock still the best swap option? I won't ever find it in the Holy Land for around 50$, as they are sold on fleabay, so I'm looking for someone that's going to visit some Betlehem and stuff :) BTW-2, anyone already thought about swapping the front end with one of the new bikes keeping the CBS/ABS? I thought CB1000R 2011 would be a good donor.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duccmann Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 5th gen grab rails do fit. ^) For the assembly you will need: -5th gen VFR (with or without tail/exhaust/tank) -6th gen tail&exhaust (get the Whole tail. Every part can be mounted) -6th gen tank (I think it will work also with 5th gen. Didn't try) -A professional welder. You and your "+1" will sit on it.. do I have to add smth else? -A professional CNC'er (for the same reason) Step 1: The bracket. Due to the difference in the construction, we'll need to cancel the two upper mounting holes and construct a bracket that will hold our new tail instead. Here's the sketch: * remark* the distance between the two holes must be 38mm instead 40.. My bad. The Material. The Yield strength of a material must be approx. 90 kg/mm2, to ensure you won't feel your rear wheel too close.. The materials available are 43XX steels (4320, 4340). I used 416 stainless steel, after cementation to 90 kg/mm2. No need to tell, that all the parts are Argon welded both sides. Step 2: The Spacers. You can see that the 6th gen subframe's lower tubes are situated much wider then the original 5th gen. So, I placed the spacers between the tubes and the frame "ears". Dimensions: Outer diameter-25mm. Inner diameter-10mm. Length- 22mm. Each. Choose any material you like. Step 3: The Big Cut. Yes, we're going to cut things! First are the too long "legs" of the subframe, that we are going to cut in the middle. scetchleg.jpg As you can see in the sketch the "ear" is a bit inside the leg itself. It's very important to keep it so after we cut the leg. So, first remove the welding, then remove the ear from the tube, then cut it, then return the ears back, then weld. Use the long bolt from step 2 to ensure the ears are welded collinear to each other. I didn't do that.. The cut piece of the tube is 125mm long. But I leave these measurements to you. It's better to cut less then more, cause you won't be able to bring in back. Step 4: khmm.. All the stuff that was in the plastics of the old tail has to be moved. Here's my R/R's new home: Did you make those sliders or purchase them? Great looking bike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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