Risers

[Guest 90RedVFR750]

I've talked to someone here who sells handlebar risers I thought. Also does anyone have a set of genmars they'd like to get rid of I plan on getting some tomorrow after I sell my utility trailer. thanks

[spud786]

I've talked to someone here who sells handlebar risers I thought. Also does anyone have a set of genmars they'd like to get rid of I plan on getting some tomorrow after I sell my utility trailer. thanks

I'm not sure the purpose of gen mars, just raise up clipons up, I guess the gen mars take up the space, but seems mostly cosmetic

[Brown81]

I think member Rogue still sells them. Maybe PM him.

[NVR2L8]

Here is Rogue's website: http://swarf.inc.mysite.orange.co.uk/

FWIW, I bought my risers from him last year and I think the quality is top notch. I've also seen the Gen Mar risers, and in my opinion Rogue's are definitely better but also cheaper (at least when I bought them). He also sells them in either 15mm or 19mm heights.

[skuuter]

I've talked to someone here who sells handlebar risers I thought. Also does anyone have a set of genmars they'd like to get rid of I plan on getting some tomorrow after I sell my utility trailer. thanks

I'm not sure the purpose of gen mars, just raise up clipons up, I guess the gen mars take up the space, but seems mostly cosmetic

They let you use the "non-slip" lock pin on the bars. If they're tight they're not gonna' slip, but if the bike gets dropped, you're almost guaranteed a tank dent when one swings around............ :warranty:

[Guest]

Here is Rogue's website: http://swarf.inc.mysite.orange.co.uk/

FWIW, I bought my risers from him last year and I think the quality is top notch. I've also seen the Gen Mar risers, and in my opinion Rogue's are definitely better but also cheaper (at least when I bought them). He also sells them in either 15mm or 19mm heights.

How is the positioning? I get fatigued after about an hour...hands and wrist get tingly. I need a little rise and I feel like I'd be much more comfy.

[skuuter]

Here is Rogue's website: http://swarf.inc.mysite.orange.co.uk/

FWIW, I bought my risers from him last year and I think the quality is top notch. I've also seen the Gen Mar risers, and in my opinion Rogue's are definitely better but also cheaper (at least when I bought them). He also sells them in either 15mm or 19mm heights.

How is the positioning? I get fatigued after about an hour...hands and wrist get tingly. I need a little rise and I feel like I'd be much more comfy.

I had em' on mine and liked em'.......lotta' differing opinions on here though.

My Triumph Speed Triple had the stockers when I had the stock seat on. I borrowed a set of 1" risers and didn't like em'. I put on a Sargent seat, and my handlebar position has felt a little "off" ever since. I bought some 30mm risers, and used em' yesterday on the Skuuter Crawl, and it's back where I want it........... :thumbsup: Sometimes if you're really tuned in to the way you like your bike to feel, it doesn't take much to make a big difference in comfort or handling............... :thumbsup:

[Brown81]

Here's my take on the Rogue risers:

The quality is excellent and the price is very fair. It is recommended to also lower the triples on the forks when using these. The thing is, after doing this, you are then back to where you started with the handlebar height, at least to some degree.

I would say I actually gained maybe 1/2" in height, which really does make a difference. Also, lowering the triples improves turn-in and handling greatly, BUT it comes at a cost: less ground clearance. VFRs need all the ground clearance they can get, imo. Of course, this depends on your riding style, but if you drag a peg now and then, it's something to keep in mind.

Also, after installation, whenever turning to the left lock, it engaged the off switch! Grrrr. A little dremel work on my switch made for enough clearance to solve this. I can live with the filed down switch.

So, ultimately, this is what I am going to do:

1. Bring the triples back up to stock position.

2. raise the REAR instead of lowering front

3. sell the risers and deal with the stock seating position!

Anyway, that's my two cents.

[Guest]

So, ultimately, this is what I am going to do:

1. Bring the triples back up to stock position.

2. raise the REAR instead of lowering front

3. sell the risers and deal with the stock seating position!

Anyway, that's my two cents.

....so you're saying your risers are for sale?

[spud786]

I've talked to someone here who sells handlebar risers I thought. Also does anyone have a set of genmars they'd like to get rid of I plan on getting some tomorrow after I sell my utility trailer. thanks

I'm not sure the purpose of gen mars, just raise up clipons up, I guess the gen mars take up the space, but seems mostly cosmetic

They let you use the "non-slip" lock pin on the bars. If they're tight they're not gonna' slip, but if the bike gets dropped, you're almost guaranteed a tank dent when one swings around............ :goofy:

Yeh I guess thats one drawback, but I need the forward rotation also, which I dont think they would allow

[Rogue]

Here's my take on the Rogue risers:

The quality is excellent and the price is very fair. It is recommended to also lower the triples on the forks when using these. The thing is, after doing this, you are then back to where you started with the handlebar height, at least to some degree.

I would say I actually gained maybe 1/2" in height, which really does make a difference. Also, lowering the triples improves turn-in and handling greatly, BUT it comes at a cost: less ground clearance. VFRs need all the ground clearance they can get, imo. Of course, this depends on your riding style, but if you drag a peg now and then, it's something to keep in mind.

Also, after installation, whenever turning to the left lock, it engaged the off switch! Grrrr. A little dremel work on my switch made for enough clearance to solve this. I can live with the filed down switch.

So, ultimately, this is what I am going to do:

1. Bring the triples back up to stock position.

2. raise the REAR instead of lowering front

3. sell the risers and deal with the stock seating position!

Anyway, that's my two cents.

Unless you did a huge drop on the yoke, you should not encounter any ground clearance issues. More important to ensure your static sag is correctly set . Obviously incorrectly set preload and /or tired fork springs / oil makes a difference

Pythagoras dictates that you are not losing much of the height of the bars by dropping the yoke, the drop is along the angle of the forks, not vertically, and anyway, the position of the bars relative to your seat and shoulders is what you are improving, not the absolute height of the bars.

The bars should have a little adjustability fore and aft due to "slop" in the engagement pegs - more so with the additional use of the risers. If the bars are pulled back slightly instead of being pushed fully forward then there should be clearance for the kill switch.

Raising the rear may be a better option for some, but I have an Ohlins fitted to my 750FS and I can't fit a spacer on the top shock mount because the bottom mount then sits on the dog bone ..not good.

[Brown81]

Unless you did a huge drop on the yoke, you should not encounter any ground clearance issues. More important to ensure your static sag is correctly set . Obviously incorrectly set preload and /or tired fork springs / oil makes a difference

Pythagoras dictates that you are not losing much of the height of the bars by dropping the yoke, the drop is along the angle of the forks, not vertically, and anyway, the position of the bars relative to your seat and shoulders is what you are improving, not the absolute height of the bars.

The bars should have a little adjustability fore and aft due to "slop" in the engagement pegs - more so with the additional use of the risers. If the bars are pulled back slightly instead of being pushed fully forward then there should be clearance for the kill switch.

Raising the rear may be a better option for some, but I have an Ohlins fitted to my 750FS and I can't fit a spacer on the top shock mount because the bottom mount then sits on the dog bone ..not good.

I dropped it enough to fit the risers. Which, is the thickness of the risers.

Pythagoras? Fancy stuff there! Well, the length of the forks does not change no matter what you do with the triples. So, since the bars are mounted to the top of the forks, you are not changing the bar height really, just lowering the seat a hair, which certainly affects the ground clearance. So yes, you are not loosing height, neither are you gaining height! I think we agree here?

Yes, suspension and sag is important, I agree.

Tried everything to clear the switch to no avail. Can't say this would occur on every bike, but it did on mine.

I believe you need a tail riser to raise the rear?

Once again, I think it is a good product and good quality. Just not sure it is staying on my bike. :thumbsup:

[Rogue]

Unless you did a huge drop on the yoke, you should not encounter any ground clearance issues. More important to ensure your static sag is correctly set . Obviously incorrectly set preload and /or tired fork springs / oil makes a difference

Pythagoras dictates that you are not losing much of the height of the bars by dropping the yoke, the drop is along the angle of the forks, not vertically, and anyway, the position of the bars relative to your seat and shoulders is what you are improving, not the absolute height of the bars.

The bars should have a little adjustability fore and aft due to "slop" in the engagement pegs - more so with the additional use of the risers. If the bars are pulled back slightly instead of being pushed fully forward then there should be clearance for the kill switch.

Raising the rear may be a better option for some, but I have an Ohlins fitted to my 750FS and I can't fit a spacer on the top shock mount because the bottom mount then sits on the dog bone ..not good.

I dropped it enough to fit the risers. Which, is the thickness of the risers.

Pythagoras? Fancy stuff there! Well, the length of the forks does not change no matter what you do with the triples. So, since the bars are mounted to the top of the forks, you are not changing the bar height really, just lowering the seat a hair, which certainly affects the ground clearance. So yes, you are not loosing height, neither are you gaining height! I think we agree here?

Yes, suspension and sag is important, I agree.

Tried everything to clear the switch to no avail. Can't say this would occur on every bike, but it did on mine.

I believe you need a tail riser to raise the rear?

Once again, I think it is a good product and good quality. Just not sure it is staying on my bike. :thumbsup:

No trying to be argumentative, but the length of the forks is irrelevant, since the bars effectively do not sit on the forks, but on the yoke.

You didn't drop the yoke by the thickness of the risers - did you ?

The bars are 19mm higher relative to the yoke than they were. Therefore they are nearer, and higher in respect of the distance between the shoulders and the yoke.

The recommended drop at the yoke is 10mm, but since this depends where the forks are initially, the "agreed " height is generally given as 45-49mm to the top of the fork tube.

The risers are 19mm thick and the clipons are 35mm (approx) thick which should mean 5-8mm of clip on above the fork leg, less approx 3mm for the top cap.

**All figures from memory therefore subject to senility**

[Guest]

I've got a set of Heli-Bar risers I'll let go for half price of retail.

Send me a PM if you're interested.

[Guest]

Does anyone install this bar risers with Helibars? Did they hit the gas tank? I want more upright, my hands got numb in about an hour. Thanks.

[Brown81]

Unless you did a huge drop on the yoke, you should not encounter any ground clearance issues. More important to ensure your static sag is correctly set . Obviously incorrectly set preload and /or tired fork springs / oil makes a difference

Pythagoras dictates that you are not losing much of the height of the bars by dropping the yoke, the drop is along the angle of the forks, not vertically, and anyway, the position of the bars relative to your seat and shoulders is what you are improving, not the absolute height of the bars.

The bars should have a little adjustability fore and aft due to "slop" in the engagement pegs - more so with the additional use of the risers. If the bars are pulled back slightly instead of being pushed fully forward then there should be clearance for the kill switch.

Raising the rear may be a better option for some, but I have an Ohlins fitted to my 750FS and I can't fit a spacer on the top shock mount because the bottom mount then sits on the dog bone ..not good.

I dropped it enough to fit the risers. Which, is the thickness of the risers.

Pythagoras? Fancy stuff there! Well, the length of the forks does not change no matter what you do with the triples. So, since the bars are mounted to the top of the forks, you are not changing the bar height really, just lowering the seat a hair, which certainly affects the ground clearance. So yes, you are not loosing height, neither are you gaining height! I think we agree here?

Yes, suspension and sag is important, I agree.

Tried everything to clear the switch to no avail. Can't say this would occur on every bike, but it did on mine.

I believe you need a tail riser to raise the rear?

Once again, I think it is a good product and good quality. Just not sure it is staying on my bike. :thumbsup:

No trying to be argumentative, but the length of the forks is irrelevant, since the bars effectively do not sit on the forks, but on the yoke.

You didn't drop the yoke by the thickness of the risers - did you ?

The bars are 19mm higher relative to the yoke than they were. Therefore they are nearer, and higher in respect of the distance between the shoulders and the yoke.

The recommended drop at the yoke is 10mm, but since this depends where the forks are initially, the "agreed " height is generally given as 45-49mm to the top of the fork tube.

The risers are 19mm thick and the clipons are 35mm (approx) thick which should mean 5-8mm of clip on above the fork leg, less approx 3mm for the top cap.

**All figures from memory therefore subject to senility**

As I said clearly in a previous post:

"I would say I actually gained maybe 1/2" in height" This means that if you measured from the ground to the top of the bars, they are about 1/2" higher than they were. 9mm would be more accurate.

Would you agree that after dropping the "yoke" 10mm and putting on the risers you gain exactly 9mm in height from the ground??

So, the bars went up 9mm, and the yolk went DOWN 10mm. The bars DID NOT GO UP 19mm.

Anyway, you can call it whatever you like. 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other.

I call it the "bars going up a bit" and "the rest of the bike going down a bit". I feel this is the most accurate.

[Rogue]

Unless you did a huge drop on the yoke, you should not encounter any ground clearance issues. More important to ensure your static sag is correctly set . Obviously incorrectly set preload and /or tired fork springs / oil makes a difference

Pythagoras dictates that you are not losing much of the height of the bars by dropping the yoke, the drop is along the angle of the forks, not vertically, and anyway, the position of the bars relative to your seat and shoulders is what you are improving, not the absolute height of the bars.

The bars should have a little adjustability fore and aft due to "slop" in the engagement pegs - more so with the additional use of the risers. If the bars are pulled back slightly instead of being pushed fully forward then there should be clearance for the kill switch.

Raising the rear may be a better option for some, but I have an Ohlins fitted to my 750FS and I can't fit a spacer on the top shock mount because the bottom mount then sits on the dog bone ..not good.

I dropped it enough to fit the risers. Which, is the thickness of the risers.

Pythagoras? Fancy stuff there! Well, the length of the forks does not change no matter what you do with the triples. So, since the bars are mounted to the top of the forks, you are not changing the bar height really, just lowering the seat a hair, which certainly affects the ground clearance. So yes, you are not loosing height, neither are you gaining height! I think we agree here?

Yes, suspension and sag is important, I agree.

Tried everything to clear the switch to no avail. Can't say this would occur on every bike, but it did on mine.

I believe you need a tail riser to raise the rear?

Once again, I think it is a good product and good quality. Just not sure it is staying on my bike. :thumbsup:

No trying to be argumentative, but the length of the forks is irrelevant, since the bars effectively do not sit on the forks, but on the yoke.

You didn't drop the yoke by the thickness of the risers - did you ?

The bars are 19mm higher relative to the yoke than they were. Therefore they are nearer, and higher in respect of the distance between the shoulders and the yoke.

The recommended drop at the yoke is 10mm, but since this depends where the forks are initially, the "agreed " height is generally given as 45-49mm to the top of the fork tube.

The risers are 19mm thick and the clipons are 35mm (approx) thick which should mean 5-8mm of clip on above the fork leg, less approx 3mm for the top cap.

**All figures from memory therefore subject to senility**

As I said clearly in a previous post:

"I would say I actually gained maybe 1/2" in height" This means that if you measured from the ground to the top of the bars, they are about 1/2" higher than they were. 9mm would be more accurate.

Would you agree that after dropping the "yoke" 10mm and putting on the risers you gain exactly 9mm in height from the ground??

So, the bars went up 9mm, and the yolk went DOWN 10mm. The bars DID NOT GO UP 19mm.

Anyway, you can call it whatever you like. 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other.

I call it the "bars going up a bit" and "the rest of the bike going down a bit". I feel this is the most accurate.

Since we're clarifying what we said before ... " the length of the forks is irrelevant, since the bars effectively do not sit on the forks, but on the yoke."

The static height of the bars from the ground does not matter, since the front is telescopic..if the front fork compresses during riding, you do NOT feel your hands and arms extending further from your shoulders (disregarding the pressure on your arms from the braking forces).

The bars still sit 19mm higher up the plane of the fork leg (on top of the yoke) nearer, and higher than they were before the risers were fitted.

Taking your argument to extremes, what you want "higher bars" would eventually actually result in the bars being further away from the shoulders if the rise was in the vertical plane (as you seem to want to measure it)

Simple answer : Take one riser off. Is one bar higher than the other ? Nearer ? By how much ?

Rod

[Brown81]

Unless you did a huge drop on the yoke, you should not encounter any ground clearance issues. More important to ensure your static sag is correctly set . Obviously incorrectly set preload and /or tired fork springs / oil makes a difference

Pythagoras dictates that you are not losing much of the height of the bars by dropping the yoke, the drop is along the angle of the forks, not vertically, and anyway, the position of the bars relative to your seat and shoulders is what you are improving, not the absolute height of the bars.

The bars should have a little adjustability fore and aft due to "slop" in the engagement pegs - more so with the additional use of the risers. If the bars are pulled back slightly instead of being pushed fully forward then there should be clearance for the kill switch.

Raising the rear may be a better option for some, but I have an Ohlins fitted to my 750FS and I can't fit a spacer on the top shock mount because the bottom mount then sits on the dog bone ..not good.

I dropped it enough to fit the risers. Which, is the thickness of the risers.

Pythagoras? Fancy stuff there! Well, the length of the forks does not change no matter what you do with the triples. So, since the bars are mounted to the top of the forks, you are not changing the bar height really, just lowering the seat a hair, which certainly affects the ground clearance. So yes, you are not loosing height, neither are you gaining height! I think we agree here?

Yes, suspension and sag is important, I agree.

Tried everything to clear the switch to no avail. Can't say this would occur on every bike, but it did on mine.

I believe you need a tail riser to raise the rear?

Once again, I think it is a good product and good quality. Just not sure it is staying on my bike. :thumbsup:

No trying to be argumentative, but the length of the forks is irrelevant, since the bars effectively do not sit on the forks, but on the yoke.

You didn't drop the yoke by the thickness of the risers - did you ?

The bars are 19mm higher relative to the yoke than they were. Therefore they are nearer, and higher in respect of the distance between the shoulders and the yoke.

The recommended drop at the yoke is 10mm, but since this depends where the forks are initially, the "agreed " height is generally given as 45-49mm to the top of the fork tube.

The risers are 19mm thick and the clipons are 35mm (approx) thick which should mean 5-8mm of clip on above the fork leg, less approx 3mm for the top cap.

**All figures from memory therefore subject to senility**

As I said clearly in a previous post:

"I would say I actually gained maybe 1/2" in height" This means that if you measured from the ground to the top of the bars, they are about 1/2" higher than they were. 9mm would be more accurate.

Would you agree that after dropping the "yoke" 10mm and putting on the risers you gain exactly 9mm in height from the ground??

So, the bars went up 9mm, and the yolk went DOWN 10mm. The bars DID NOT GO UP 19mm.

Anyway, you can call it whatever you like. 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other.

I call it the "bars going up a bit" and "the rest of the bike going down a bit". I feel this is the most accurate.

Since we're clarifying what we said before ... " the length of the forks is irrelevant, since the bars effectively do not sit on the forks, but on the yoke."

The static height of the bars from the ground does not matter, since the front is telescopic..if the front fork compresses during riding, you do NOT feel your hands and arms extending further from your shoulders (disregarding the pressure on your arms from the braking forces).

The bars still sit 19mm higher up the plane of the fork leg (on top of the yoke) nearer, and higher than they were before the risers were fitted.

Taking your argument to extremes, what you want "higher bars" would eventually actually result in the bars being further away from the shoulders if the rise was in the vertical plane (as you seem to want to measure it)

Simple answer : Take one riser off. Is one bar higher than the other ? Nearer ? By how much ?

Rod

I hear what you are saying. But, taking your argument to the extreme:

If you lower the triples on you bike 3 inches, and do not move the bars at all, then you have raised your bars 3 inches. You can stick a 3" spacer in between and call it a "riser" but "spacer" is more accurate isn't it?

In fact the bars were not raised at all. They never moved. The front of the bikes chassis (and the whole riding position, excluding your hands) was rotated down 3 inches on the rear axle. This would be different than adding 3 inches to your bars. Yes I believe the word "rise" would indicate "rising" on the vertical plane.

As I said, good quality and worth the price, just not exactly what I was looking for. I want more ground clearance, not less. This does in fact decrease the ground clearance. Sorry if that upsets you in some way. I will not argue with you anymore. :thumbsup:

[Rogue]

I hear what you are saying. But, taking your argument to the extreme:

If you lower the triples on you bike 3 inches, and do not move the bars at all, then you have raised your bars 3 inches. You can stick a 3" spacer in between and call it a "riser" but "spacer" is more accurate isn't it?

In fact the bars were not raised at all. They never moved. The front of the bikes chassis (and the whole riding position, excluding your hands) was rotated down 3 inches on the rear axle. This would be different than adding 3 inches to your bars. Yes I believe the word "rise" would indicate "rising" on the vertical plane.

As I said, good quality and worth the price, just not exactly what I was looking for. I want more ground clearance, not less. This does in fact decrease the ground clearance. Sorry if that upsets you in some way. I will not argue with you anymore. :thumbsup:

Not for any reason that I want to extend this discussion with you, but there may well be some others who are mulling this technical discussion over and see both side's points - I have a couple of small additions to consider.

Your example above is flawed. In the example what you have done is drop the triples 3" down from the bars. The bars have indeed not moved. The spacer merely fills the space created.

However, if you drop the yoke 10mm and then raise the bars by 19mm you certainly HAVE raised the bars. Or drop the yoke 3" and then insert 3 3/4" spacers.

The yoke drop is a mod done on it's own merit..it improves the handling greatly, at the expense of marginally reduced ground clearance (5-8mm max).

If you have already done this mod, or the previous owner did it, then you will be used to the current riding position.

Once again, not all bikes are set up the same way from the dealers / previous owners.

In fact there are probably more posters here who wish to lower the bike than those who complain about dragging the hard parts.

To those who do drag - I say "awesome riding skills", but you should probably buy a sports bike, learn to set your suspension up properly, or lose a few pounds, or all three..

Adding the "spacers" will then definately raise the bars and bring them closer to you. The combination of the two mods happens to bring about the conditions you describe and I do recommend that you do drop the yoke, both for the handling AND for safety ( to ensure a safe grip on the fork leg).

The fact you do them both at the same time does not mean that the "spacers "do not do what they are supposed to..If you find that tricky to understand, then do the yoke drop, enjoy the improved handling, become accustomed to it and then fit the risers . Or fit one and see if one bar is nearer/higher or not..

You profess to want a higher bar (measured vertically). This is virtually impossible to achieve, since all risers, convertibars and others are mounted in plane with the forks and will therefore be more rearward the higher they go.

You already said that your switchgear interfered with the fairing at the small rise given, so how could you have mounted the bars any higher ?

You can in theory raise convertibars by a considerable amount, but their own literature includes the proviso that "actual amount of adjustment varies according to fairing clearance and length of control cables", and if you move or rotate the bars back far enough to get height, then they interfere with the tank..

I have no axe to grind with this poster, since he has been gracious about my product, but there may be others who may not be as aware of the engineering principles involved.

To those whose eyes are rolling in their heads due to boredom because of this thread, my apologies.

Kind regards, Rod :pissed: