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Repacking an Aftermarket exhaust pipe


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Unbolting the hangers

My D&D is sounding rather blown out these days, after about two years of general abuse I decided to finally repack the can.

Start by removing the exhaust from the bike.

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Loosen all the straps

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Nasty! Road Grime

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Take off the lead pipe

I used some OO steel wool and cleaned off the caked on road grime then some Mothers Polish to polish it back to shine.

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Take off the rest of the pipe

You have to drill out the old rivets.

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Drilling off the rivet heads

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Punch out the rest of the rivet bodies

Once the rivets are punched out you can take off the end caps. ?The D&D is one solid unit with both end caps welded on, some other units have sews and are easy to get apart. ?I had to use a rubber mallet and a soft piece of pine to push the end caps out of the tube.

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You can see the core is blown out

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I used a utility knife to cut into the old packing, you can see the blown out parts

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Use a wire brush to clean the core

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I wrapped the core with steel wool to prevent blowouts

I read that wrapping steel wool around the core first prevents the new packing from getting blown out. You can get stainless steel wool here. If you use plain steel wool it will rust and desintigrate.

http://www.steel-wool.com

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Fiberglass Pack kit ready!

I was going to use wire to hold the packing in but the kit said to use masking tape - so I did.

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Compress the packing

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Pop Rivet the core back in

I lined up the holes and tapped the core back into the tube, I used some high temp RTV on the end caps to seal them up, I had to pop rivet them on from below cause the pins would fall into the can if I did them from above.

I hammered the rivet caps flat and then cleaned the pipe and polished the whole thing with mothers polish until it shined! ?I also removed the headers and cleaned it up with a wire cup on my electric polisher. ?Painted the headers with 1200 degree black ceramic paint. Sealed up the connectors and put in new gaskets.

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  • 5 years later...
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So how much a difference did it make when you fired it up? - I got a carbon pipe I need to do this with. (Great photos and post.)

MD

Edited by mello dude
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  • Forum CEO

So how much a difference did it make when you fired it up? - I got a carbon pipe I need to do this with. (Great photos and post.)

MD

I did not pack it as tightly as I should have, needed more glass packing. It sounded more throaty, still too loud - it was a D and D afterall. I ended up with a new Staintune the next season. I gave it to one of the wera guys on the forum for track use, it made good power.

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So how much a difference did it make when you fired it up? - I got a carbon pipe I need to do this with. (Great photos and post.)

MD

I did not pack it as tightly as I should have, needed more glass packing. It sounded more throaty, still too loud - it was a D and D afterall. I ended up with a new Staintune the next season. I gave it to one of the wera guys on the forum for track use, it made good power.

Just thinkin' out loud here... But the steel wool, while helping prevent premature blowout of the packing, may also be blocking the absorption of sound?

E-Ticket

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  • Forum CEO

So how much a difference did it make when you fired it up? - I got a carbon pipe I need to do this with. (Great photos and post.)

MD

I did not pack it as tightly as I should have, needed more glass packing. It sounded more throaty, still too loud - it was a D and D afterall. I ended up with a new Staintune the next season. I gave it to one of the wera guys on the forum for track use, it made good power.

Just thinkin' out loud here... But the steel wool, while helping prevent premature blowout of the packing, may also be blocking the absorption of sound?

E-Ticket

Staintunes are packed with nothing but stainless steel wool, they absorb sound, or actually the pockets of air do inside the wool. Stainless wool is just more resilent than fiberglass in terms of resistance to shock.

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So how much a difference did it make when you fired it up? - I got a carbon pipe I need to do this with. (Great photos and post.)

MD

I did not pack it as tightly as I should have, needed more glass packing. It sounded more throaty, still too loud - it was a D and D afterall. I ended up with a new Staintune the next season. I gave it to one of the wera guys on the forum for track use, it made good power.

Just thinkin' out loud here... But the steel wool, while helping prevent premature blowout of the packing, may also be blocking the absorption of sound?

E-Ticket

Staintunes are packed with nothing but stainless steel wool, they absorb sound, or actually the pockets of air do inside the wool. Stainless wool is just more resilent than fiberglass in terms of resistance to shock.

I did not know that ... thanks! E-Ticket

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  • 4 weeks later...

Stainless Steel wool is what you need - regular steel wool will just rust away in a day or two.

I've not tried this but heard it's very good in terms of sound mellowing and long term endurance:

http://www.anvilfire.com/sales/k_index.htm

Another source for high temperature insulation material is McMaster-Carr. www.mcmaster.com

Wrap your headers? Pack your exhaust can? Wrap your turkey fryer for off season work? B~

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Another source for high temperature insulation material is McMaster-Carr. www.mcmaster.com

Wrap your headers? Pack your exhaust can? Wrap your turkey fryer for off season work? B~

I am planning on repacking my Two Bros with some Superwool or equivalent. I'll try and document it. From what I read, you still need to do the stainless steel layer first. Just need to figure out how much of each I need.

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