fabio222 Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Hi all, just looking to see if anyone has an opinion on this.... Went out to ride home from work yesterday and found the clutch lever incredibly stiff. It couldn't be made come back to the handlebar no matter how much I pulled it. The clutch would still engage or disengage but with absolutely no feel and it took incredible effort to use it. This has happened once before but resolved itself after I removed and cleaned the lever pivot point. No such luck this time (and I think that really was just luck). I've ordered a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit because I think it's something to do with that...it feels like something on that end is sticking badly. I rebuilt the slave cylinder last summer and it's all good. Fluid was bled only a few days ago so no air. Any opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted April 10 Member Contributer Share Posted April 10 Is it the bike in your profile or some other? Cable or hydraulic? Have you looked at anything...like the activator/pushrod? When was the last time you serviced it (fluid or cable lube)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabio222 Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 1 hour ago, bmart said: Is it the bike in your profile or some other? Cable or hydraulic? Have you looked at anything...like the activator/pushrod? When was the last time you serviced it (fluid or cable lube)? Same as the profile pic yeah - 97 750 with 92500 miles on the clock. Clutch fluid was done the other day (it'd been a year since it was last done). It felt fine before and after that fluid change . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted April 11 Member Contributer Share Posted April 11 When you open the slave cylinder bleeder valve, does the clutch lever move freely and smoothly fully to the handle bar? If so, and you are able to bleed the system in a normal fashion, wouldn't that mean the problem is within the Slave cylinder or further forward to the lifter rod, clutch plate etc.? Check the slave piston moves freely and check the lifter rod for any signs of binding, give it a good smear of grease. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabio222 Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 17 hours ago, Grum said: When you open the slave cylinder bleeder valve, does the clutch lever move freely and smoothly fully to the handle bar? If so, and you are able to bleed the system in a normal fashion, wouldn't that mean the problem is within the Slave cylinder or further forward to the lifter rod, clutch plate etc.? Check the slave piston moves freely and check the lifter rod for any signs of binding, give it a good smear of grease. When I bled the fluid the other night it was all nice and smooth. Clutch lever felt great. The issue with the stuff clutch lever just happened to come up the day after that. I don't think it's related (the fact I did the fluid bleed and the issue cropped up soon after) because this has happened before and it went away spontaneously. I'll certainly check the slave cylinder too though and check the lifter rod and give that a clean and grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Presson Posted April 11 Member Contributer Share Posted April 11 I would do as Grum suggested by running some fluid through to the secondary cylinder bleed valve just to confirm now that the problem is not in the master to secondary line. Even though it went smoothly when you did a fluid change, there is a small possibility of contamination working from the master down. It is only, what, a 10 minute job. If all okay there, remove, clean and grease the actuator rod and see if that solves the problem; sometimes grit gets onto the drive sprocket end. After that you are onto the RHS and the clutch itself, which frankly from your description seems unlikely. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabio222 Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 22 hours ago, Presson said: I would do as Grum suggested by running some fluid through to the secondary cylinder bleed valve just to confirm now that the problem is not in the master to secondary line. Even though it went smoothly when you did a fluid change, there is a small possibility of contamination working from the master down. It is only, what, a 10 minute job. If all okay there, remove, clean and grease the actuator rod and see if that solves the problem; sometimes grit gets onto the drive sprocket end. After that you are onto the RHS and the clutch itself, which frankly from your description seems unlikely. Hoping I don't need to go at the clutch itself but it doesn't feel that sort of issue. Feels like a stuck mechanism somehow. You're right, another flush of fluid would do no harm. I have a master cylinder rebuild kit so I'm going to do that job soon. No point leaving it on the shelf I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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