Torque figures / settings tapered head bearings

[DONI]

Hi

Need to replace the head bearings on my '98. I'm pretty new to VFR's and head bearings (never had to replace one) so I was wondering if someone could help me with the torque fiqures for tapered head bearings. I thought that the settings were the same as in the Honda manual but apparently they're not. I've learned this after I orderd a set from All Balls.

Now I've read a lot of posts online on how some do it by 'feel' but it's doesn't feel very reassuring and safe to me. Also the installation manual on All Balls site is way too general (torquing adjustment nut to specified torque and backing off 1/2 turn). Don't want to damage the frame or anything.

 

I would really appreciate it if someone could help me out with this. Thanks.

 

[Bren]

Whatever you do don't torque them to the same as ball bearings, one owner many moons ago cracked his head doing exactly that.

When I did mine I torqued them down to half the ball bearings value to seat them, then gave a few gentle turns for good measure. There was a lot of resistance. Then I  backed the nut off completely and torqued again to a very low value, I want to say 9 ft/lbs but can't be 100% sure. I did the rest by "feel" (not helping I realise). Check for the whole lot flopping over to one side too easy, front wheel off the ground of course. It's easy to tell when they're too tight as they won't move much doing the procedure again and there will be a resistance you can feel. You're looking for the bars to move from center to the side with a gentle push, while not flopping over when you just lift the front off the ground. 

 

I think once you start doing it you'll feel the differences between loose and tight.

 

Edit, if your not comfortable doing it get a mechanic to do it who will let you watch. You'll learn something new and be prepared for any adjustments in the future.

[BusyLittleShop]

STEERING HEAD BEARINGS

If your steering head bearings are too tight the bike will weave and
not seek its own center... if your steering head bearings are loose
you'll notice a pronounce clunk during braking... I don't use torque
figures rather I raise the front wheel off the ground and tighten the
steering head bearings until the bars lock then I back off the nut
until the bars free wheel with a slight drag... with this method you
find that sweat spot and avoid over tightening and under tightening
even if you upgrade to taper roller bearings...

 

[DONI]

Thanks for the replies. It’s a shame that there aren’t actual torque figures. Would’ve been less of a hassle but I’ll try as suggested.

 

Do you do a pre load test? If so, do you put the clip ons back on? The manual doesn’t seem to mention it. I have abm top riser and a handlebar (came on the bike). I guess with my set up it wouldn’t be accurate? If I were to test it?

[Mohawk]

The steering stem does not need the top yoke to set the head bearings. Just make sure the shells are fully seated. Don't even need bearings to locate the shells properly. Then add bearings & adjust as per Larry's advice 👍

[Dangeruss]

In addition to the above advice, once I have decided that they are not too tight I roll the bike forward (helps to have a slight incline) and grab the front brake hard to see if there is any clunking. If not it's good to go, but doesn't hurt to recheck after a bit if riding to let everything settle in.

[DONI]

Thanks everyone for the tips. Planning to do it this weekend. Hopefully everything will go smoothly. Will report back.