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About Lannyl81

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  • Location
    Oro Valley, AZ
  • In My Garage:
    1997 VR 750F

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  1. Looking at a '07 that went down at low speed on left side. Instead of going the full set of aftermarket fairings have been looking around to see if there are any used OEM fairings for sale, but have not found any.....so thought I would ask if there is a source out there somewhere. Thanks
  2. Auxiliary Lighting

    I sure like those fog lamps on the front, I am going to look for something similar. Those brake lites by hyperlites are quite attention getting.
  3. 92 VFR750 Fuel Leak

    Yep, my '97 did this as well. You have two options: replace the plastic tubes/O rings with Honda parts or there is a seller on ebay that has metal tubes. I suggest replacing all of them, I think there are four and not just the leaking one. Carb removal and splitting are required. Take pictures of assembly before splitting carbs.....somewhat a "trick" as to how they go.
  4. Going to jump in here as there are two 2002's for sale in my area: Since this is the first year of the VTEC, was there any unique problems with it that got resolved in later years? Did the fuel injection system change from the 5th gen? Hope this helps Mattt as well.....
  5. 4th Gen header removal

    I just got through putting the exhaust system back on. 1. Put the rear tubes in place but just start the four collar nuts, do not tighten them down. 2. Mate the rear joint and also just start the three nuts. 3. Now go back and tighten down the collar nuts on the rear tubes.....little on each one at at time. 4. Put the front tubes in place and tighten down the collar nuts 5. Tighten the rear joint 6. Tighten the two clamps for the front tubes. I used some high temp sealant on the four cylinder gaskets to keep them in place, otherwise they just fell out. I did not have to use any on the rear joint gaskets. I got everything back together and think I will let the sealant cure for 24 hours before I start the engine. Good luck with yours.
  6. Exhaust Header Gaskets

    The exhaust gaskets all crushed-down just fine. I did put some high-temp sealant on one side of the gaskets in order to keep it in place so I could bolt the exhaust tubes on. Have everything back together ready to start the engine, but need to allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours....so no riding today.
  7. Exhaust Header Gaskets

    Yep agree that is how the gaskets seal and I had looked-up and found the torque for the collar nuts...which still seems like it is not going to flatten these gaskets and seal. Will find out tomorrow though. I will put all back together and fire engine up and see if the popping is gone. Thanks
  8. On my '97 I decided to replace the six exhaust gaskets; one at each cylinder and then two at the rear joint. The question I have is regarding these new gaskets; they are a ring, not flat like the old ones...so I was wondering if these need to be flattened prior to installation? The gaskets seem to be rather hard and I really doubt that they will flatten when the collars on the exhaust tubes are tightened....seems like it would require quite a bit of pressure which would just break the studs in the cylinders. If my blasted cell phone would connect to my computer I could post pictures of the new vrs old gaskets, but it will not. Going to be putting bike back together on Sun (7/16).
  9. 4th Gen header removal

    What to provide some updated info; the header can be completely removed WITHOUT removing the center stand, I did this last weekend. Take the front tubes off, break the joint at the rear connection and then the header can be easily removed, just slides through the center stand.
  10. Speedo/audometer stopped .

    Scrapman, what year do you have?
  11. auggius: I answered your questions in your thread.... If I had known I would be removing the exhaust tubes I would have ordered replacement gaskets, but I did not, so used the old ones.
  12. 4th Gen header removal

    I started to respond in my thread about the leaking thermostat housing and removing the PAIR components.....then put it here. May read a bit strange.... Removal of the center stand is only required to completely remove the exhaust headers. And yes the rear shock must be removed....just no way to get to the rear tubes with shock in place. Battery heat shield, move rear coils and starter relay to the side, rubber mat. Also need to remove the two hex head bolts for the right side foot peg. No need to break the rear hydraulics, just need to be able to push out of the way. I also removed the right side passenger peg and of course the muffler and pipe. Next will be to remove the three nuts on the rear tubes collector. These gave me alot of problem as the bolt threads are gulled-up due to heat cycles. I had not planned on removing the rear tubes but had to so I could re-thread these three bolts. I did find that all the tube collars were not all that tight so I had no danger of breaking a stud. Then you can get to the rear tubes and remove them....they are welded together. There are gaskets in the head for each tube. I did all of this with the bike on the center stand. Oh and I removed the rear wheel, just gives you more room to get at those bolts. Hopefully you will not be doing this when it is 107°F in the garage when I was.....
  13. I got to spend most of Sat (7/1) in garage working on the bike, did get to 107°F according to the thermo on the wall....so a tad bit warm. My plan was to just removed the water pump cover but removed the wrong two bolts and got oil...so I was going to do an oil change soon anyways. Good thing I had the tub that I had drained coolant into right there to catch the oil. AND a good thing I did take the water pump apart....actually I took every coolant joint apart and found that most of the O rings had signs of coolant getting pass.....especially on the two small fittings that the hoses from the thermostat go to and the two for the water pipe....these were ready to go. Appears that these were all original so guess one can not complain about 20 year old O rings leaking. The O rings that were still good were the three on the two chrome pipes. I also removed all the PAIR stuff, installed the blocking plates and capped the vacuum ports on the front carbs and the two at the airbox (thank you once again otmaximus). I did remove the exhaust header to get access for the rear and then had to completely removed the rear pipes as I had to re-thread the three welded-in bolts at the rear joint.....that took about two hours to do itself. Oh and one odd thing...the rear shock that I had Jamie (DMR) rebuild two years ago, the spring preload adjuster had come apart and was all jammed-up against the frame. I needed to remove the rear shock anyways to get to the rear PAIR lines...another GOOD thing I was doing all of this work. Have not filled with coolant or oil yet....getting close to getting bike all back together....another couple of hours of quality time. Later
  14. Right you are...I was wrong....I was remembering the NOTE in the box below Coolant Draining which is coolant replacement....see Common Service Manual. I also got my paper 97 VFR Service Manual off the shelf and looked at it, which is different from the 90-96 VFR Service Manual that I downloaded from here. So my next question is regarding removal of the water pump....does the engine oil need to be drained in order to remove the entire water pump? I know I can remove the water pump cover without draining the oil, but since there is an O ring for the water pump driveshaft that mates to the oil pump, not sure if oil has to be drained or not. I would rather not drain the oil at this time as I would rather have the engine warm first and then drain the oil. Also....have removed all the PAIR stuff! Awaiting the cover plates to arrive.
  15. Yep, the water pump drain was the first one I removed. I looked at the Service Manual and all I found was a note to refer to the Common Service Manual...which I did, but it did not show any drain bolt for the rear head/cylinders. Still wondering what the exploded view at PartZilla.com is trying to show me????? Thanks.