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Lannyl81

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About Lannyl81

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    Lannyl81

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  • Location
    Oro Valley, AZ
  • In My Garage:
    1997 VR 750F

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  1. Thermostat issue?

    Thought I would jump in here; on my '97 the temp gauge needle is normally about a quarter up when moving at speed, moves further upward when in traffic and the fans come on. In other words, the needle moves a lot and I think reflects the coolant temp accurately. This is the end of my 3rd summer with my VFR and temp gauge has always been this way. Of course when riding at air temps of 95+ F...the coolant does have to work.
  2. I almost got these as well...but was concerned about how bright the red brake light is during the day when in full sun. Any comments on that?
  3. Was curious if anyone knows the percentage of total weight, with rider for the front and rear? Is it 60/40 or more towards 50/50? Again just curious. Later,
  4. Looking at a '07 that went down at low speed on left side. Instead of going the full set of aftermarket fairings have been looking around to see if there are any used OEM fairings for sale, but have not found any.....so thought I would ask if there is a source out there somewhere. Thanks
  5. Auxiliary Lighting

    I sure like those fog lamps on the front, I am going to look for something similar. Those brake lites by hyperlites are quite attention getting.
  6. 92 VFR750 Fuel Leak

    Yep, my '97 did this as well. You have two options: replace the plastic tubes/O rings with Honda parts or there is a seller on ebay that has metal tubes. I suggest replacing all of them, I think there are four and not just the leaking one. Carb removal and splitting are required. Take pictures of assembly before splitting carbs.....somewhat a "trick" as to how they go.
  7. Going to jump in here as there are two 2002's for sale in my area: Since this is the first year of the VTEC, was there any unique problems with it that got resolved in later years? Did the fuel injection system change from the 5th gen? Hope this helps Mattt as well.....
  8. 4th Gen header removal

    I just got through putting the exhaust system back on. 1. Put the rear tubes in place but just start the four collar nuts, do not tighten them down. 2. Mate the rear joint and also just start the three nuts. 3. Now go back and tighten down the collar nuts on the rear tubes.....little on each one at at time. 4. Put the front tubes in place and tighten down the collar nuts 5. Tighten the rear joint 6. Tighten the two clamps for the front tubes. I used some high temp sealant on the four cylinder gaskets to keep them in place, otherwise they just fell out. I did not have to use any on the rear joint gaskets. I got everything back together and think I will let the sealant cure for 24 hours before I start the engine. Good luck with yours.
  9. Exhaust Header Gaskets

    The exhaust gaskets all crushed-down just fine. I did put some high-temp sealant on one side of the gaskets in order to keep it in place so I could bolt the exhaust tubes on. Have everything back together ready to start the engine, but need to allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours....so no riding today.
  10. Exhaust Header Gaskets

    Yep agree that is how the gaskets seal and I had looked-up and found the torque for the collar nuts...which still seems like it is not going to flatten these gaskets and seal. Will find out tomorrow though. I will put all back together and fire engine up and see if the popping is gone. Thanks
  11. On my '97 I decided to replace the six exhaust gaskets; one at each cylinder and then two at the rear joint. The question I have is regarding these new gaskets; they are a ring, not flat like the old ones...so I was wondering if these need to be flattened prior to installation? The gaskets seem to be rather hard and I really doubt that they will flatten when the collars on the exhaust tubes are tightened....seems like it would require quite a bit of pressure which would just break the studs in the cylinders. If my blasted cell phone would connect to my computer I could post pictures of the new vrs old gaskets, but it will not. Going to be putting bike back together on Sun (7/16).
  12. 4th Gen header removal

    What to provide some updated info; the header can be completely removed WITHOUT removing the center stand, I did this last weekend. Take the front tubes off, break the joint at the rear connection and then the header can be easily removed, just slides through the center stand.
  13. Speedo/audometer stopped .

    Scrapman, what year do you have?
  14. auggius: I answered your questions in your thread.... If I had known I would be removing the exhaust tubes I would have ordered replacement gaskets, but I did not, so used the old ones.
  15. 4th Gen header removal

    I started to respond in my thread about the leaking thermostat housing and removing the PAIR components.....then put it here. May read a bit strange.... Removal of the center stand is only required to completely remove the exhaust headers. And yes the rear shock must be removed....just no way to get to the rear tubes with shock in place. Battery heat shield, move rear coils and starter relay to the side, rubber mat. Also need to remove the two hex head bolts for the right side foot peg. No need to break the rear hydraulics, just need to be able to push out of the way. I also removed the right side passenger peg and of course the muffler and pipe. Next will be to remove the three nuts on the rear tubes collector. These gave me alot of problem as the bolt threads are gulled-up due to heat cycles. I had not planned on removing the rear tubes but had to so I could re-thread these three bolts. I did find that all the tube collars were not all that tight so I had no danger of breaking a stud. Then you can get to the rear tubes and remove them....they are welded together. There are gaskets in the head for each tube. I did all of this with the bike on the center stand. Oh and I removed the rear wheel, just gives you more room to get at those bolts. Hopefully you will not be doing this when it is 107°F in the garage when I was.....
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