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BiKenG last won the day on November 1

BiKenG had the most liked content!

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About BiKenG

  • Rank
    World Superbike Racer

Profile Information

  • Location
    Surrey, UK
  • In My Garage:
    Montesa 4RT
    Triumph ThruxtonR

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  1. I need a wiring diagram for the 6th Gen that has HISS (but ideally no ABS). I have one for the 5th Gen with HISS and for the 6th Gen without HISS (from US version Workshop Manual). I've even found an Owner's Manual for the right bike, but less than helpfully Honda no longer include the wiring diagram in those. Anyone got this diagram? I'm trying to find out what the HISS button does. Not so much how you use it as that's in the Owners Manual, but how it is connected electrically. So easy with the right diagram. Impossible without.
  2. I'm trying to put together a single nut fixing using Honda's central axle bolt. I have an RC45 axle bolt and it appears to fit into the NC30 axle although the splines don't exactly slide in easily and will need some tapping to go fully home (they're totally dry having only just been de-greased). I'm guessing that's normal. However, the bolt then protrudes about 2" from the end of the axle. Should it be this long? Means the wheel and washers have to be much thicker than I would have expected. I've got nothing to which I can compare it. Can anyone recall how much the bolt sticks out of the axle or has a 400 axle they can measure for length? How is a 400 wheel centred? There's no RC45 style cone spacer to centralise it on the axle, so what does? Is the idea that it is a snug fit over the axle and that's sufficient. The fancy spacer under the nut then would be just a big washer. Or does that spacer somehow help even though it's not going to be as good as the RC45's cone spacer. Or does the wheel sit snug on the boss at the centre of the flange, with the drive pins just there to stop it rotating? The RC45 uses its cone spacer for this, but I just cannot see quite how the 400 achieves the same centralisation and I don't have all the 400 parts to be able to work it out. Anyone familiar with the 400s?
  3. wrapping a VFR

    Hey, don't hold back, tell it like it is. So I will too. 1. Sorry, but you're wrong. I've already pointed out that there are finishes and effects available in vinyl that are virtually impossible to obtain in paint, but the actual finish and gloss available is NOT as good as 'can' be obtained with paint. There is simply no way you can achieve any real depth of gloss with a vinyl wrap as you can with paint. If you think you can, you are seriously misguided. I'm not saying vinyl is rubbish, just that there are certain considerations. Apart from that it is extraordinary what can be achieved. And you can do it in your kitchen. Try that with spray painting. 2. No sorry, you're wrong again, but if you think you're so good at it, please carry on. For the rest of us, do think carefully before you start or it will increase the chances of not being able to achieve a smooth wrap over the entire area. You don't want to end up having to overstretch the vinyl, nor do you want to have too much, meaning you won't be able to eliminate rucks and creases. These are fundamentals of vinyl wrapping and you stand the best chance of being able to complete a job successfully if you do take the time to think about how you will need to lay the vinyl on the particular surface in question. Quite frankly it's farcical to think you can start any old way and it will always turn out perfect. I don't pretend to be an expert in vinyl wrapping, but I do know enough about it to offer some constructive advice to others. But that's all the time I'm prepared to spend on this topic now if this is the way it's going. Makes me wonder why I bothered in the first place.
  4. wrapping a VFR

    2 points I forgot to mention:- Although vinyl doesn't have the depth of gloss that can be achieved with paint, not all paint finishes are actually better than what you can achieve with vinyl and the latter can provide finishes really hard or impossible to achieve with paint, at least not without exorbitant expense. If you need the vinyl to end on a good visible line, don't try and lay the edge of the vinyl to that line as it will undoubtedly screw up the rest of the wrap and leave wrinkles and creases that you cannot eliminate. You need to lay the vinyl past the desired line and then trim it to that line after the wrapping is done. For which... Be VERY careful if you use a sharp knife to cut the vinyl as you don't want to cut all the way through and damage the paint/underneath. It takes a lot of experience to be able to cut part way through the vinyl, just enough to allow it be pulled apart cleanly along the line, but not so deep that you scribe a line in the paint underneath. So... Use 'knifeless' tape. This is like a tape that you first place along the line you want to achieve and after you lay the vinyl over it you can pick a thin thread out of the tape that you then carefully pull out of the tape and which neatly cuts the vinyl exactly along the line you want (assuming you put the tape in the right place of course :-) and with NO danger of damaging the paint underneath. This is a very neat and clever solution, but you'll be slightly horrified by the cost of this tape. However, you won't need to use huge lengths of it on a bike. When you think you're good enough, try wrapping a helmet.
  5. I had thought it could be welded all the way around the axle, but I now realise that's not really possible as the 'adapter' is pushed into the axle right up to the thread. So as far as I can see from the photos, holes must be drilled in the axle and the adapter welded to the axle just around each hole. Can't have too many holes, obviously. The only other way would be to cut the axle shorter and weld that shortened end to the adapter around the full circumference. The axle would just need shortening sufficiently to provide enough space for the weld. But making sure the adapter is pushed in to the correct depth would be trickier. Anyone actually installed this adapter and could comment?
  6. Surely you mean wheel side? The sprocket side uses M38 x 1.5 (or M35 if not single nut wheel fixing). I took a chance and ordered the Ti wheel nut that was specified for the 400s but not the RC45. Should be here today, but good to know I made the right choice.
  7. wrapping a VFR

    I've tried this on several bikes and my observations are:- The intricate shapes of bike parts makes it much much harder than big car panels, but not impossible. The tank will probably be the hardest to do (in one piece) as it's so visible and has to be perfect. Resistance to petrol spillage is untried. Probably the most important point is that it is MUCH harder to do when the parts are loose. Good wrapping means a lot of pulling and some stretching and small bike parts will not let you do that as they simply move when you try to pull the vinyl. Either have someone to help you (they'll get really bored) or do what you can with the part attached to the bike. I would not attempt to do a tank again off the bike. Leave it on and secure the bike so you can't pull it over. Then you can get some serious pull and stretch the vinyl where you need it. Edges are hard to get right. How far do you wrap around? Can you see the back side at all? It won't be as cheap as you think. Decent vinyl is expensive. Be prepared to waste a lot of that expensive vinyl. It'll never actually look as good as paint close up as there isn't the smooth finish nor depth of shine that can be achieved with paint. Carbon pattern can be very effective, but you cannot get the depth of gloss of real glossy carbon. Think before starting each part to determine how best to start so that the part can be covered with the minimum of stretching. Starting in the wrong place can make it impossible to finish without creases and folds. Get it right and it can look almost as good as paint. Scour You Tube for example videos. CK Wraps is a good place to start even though he doesn't do much with bikes. However, it is completely reversible so if you screw it up or simply get bored with it in a few years, you can take it off and the bike will be restored to its pre-wrap condition and so better than it would be had it not been wrapped which of course protects it from stone chipping etc. Good luck, have fun.
  8. I love Titanium. Here's the Triumph nut I just bought from compeng24. He is intending to produce Ti clips to go with them, but might be a month or 2. In conjunction with Titan Classics conical spring washer this seems like a perfect solution for the driven side of the axle. TC also offer a lot of other useful Ti stuff like h/bar lever pivots, rear wheel drive pins and steering stem nuts. Just have to wait a while till I can afford those. Did I mention, I love Ti.
  9. Yes of course it's the total area of pistons MOVING IN THE SAME DIRECTION. But assuming the same piston size, a single piston in a sliding caliper is EXACTLY the same as 2 pistons moving in opposition (i.e. fixed caliper). For the latter, the area you'd use for any calculation would only be for ONE piston. The sliding effect of the caliper means essentially the same amount of fluid has to be moved in each of these different designs. There are of course other considerations that make the sliding caliper less than optimal, but they're cheaper to make hence why we still see them being used. I just bought a couple of CRF style master cylinders to try out. Only £6 each on eBay - new. I know, Chinese manufactured (and supplied), but you can't knock the price and I'm sure they will actually work as well as I need - as long as the size is suitable.
  10. I've just ordered the Triumph wheel nut which at M38 x 1.5 is the correct size for the Honda's driven side axle nut. Although the Honda style nut is available from Titan Classics, I just hate the idea of having to bend a part just to make it do its job, especially if you want to be able to re-use it multiple times. Shame on Honda for employing such a crummy idea. The Triumph one however is castellated and with some drilling of the axle I'll be able to use the Triumph clip on it too. Neither are flanged, but I don't see that as being a problem. There is supposed to be a spring/conical washer underneath that nut and using a flange type nut wouldn't obviate the need for that spring loading. But Titan Classics have those conical washers in Ti, so all's good. In fact TC also have the wheel nut R clip in Ti. So the RC45 wheel nut is M18 x 1.5, but what about the NC30 and 35? I suspect they are the same, but I cannot seem to get any confirmation of that.
  11. Looking further at axle nuts, it appears Ducati use M33, M38 or M48. So no matches there
  12. Hey keef, I see you're using Ducati (style) nuts on both ends of the axle. Is that because the nuts fit the Honda axle (in which case, which axle) or are you using a Ducati axle?
  13. I also think the RC45 uses the same thread on its axle bolt as the NC30 and 35. But I've not confirmed that 100% and I don't want to waste the money on a nice Ti nut if it's wrong. Are you looking for the LH/driven side axle nut? That's the M38 x 1.5. Titan Classic have those that can be staked like the original, but buy from their website as it seems a bit cheaper than their eBay store. If you don't want to stake the nut into the slot in the axle (like I don't) do what Mohawk did and drill the lip of the nut and the axle so the Ducati (or some other) clip can be used.
  14. Maybe a silly question, but why did HRC use a LH thread for their large single wheel nut? Also, do Ducati use LH or RH wheel nut thread and is it the same dia. and pitch as VFRRR and HRC? Does a Ducati nut fit the M38 x 1.5 thread on the driven side of the axle? Does the NC30/35 wheel nut fit the RC45. So is the thread on the end of the internal axle bolt the same for both bikes?
  15. Can I ask what you (rc4six) did with the VFR. It's a 3rd Gen wheel that is normally located and driven by the wheel mount studs and nuts - which are no longer used. I assume you used a 400 axle, but how did you match the wheel to the drive pins? Did you have to machine the back mount face of the wheel to accommodate the drive pins?