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Hi there ! Following a wee accident, I'm taking the chance to cherish my VFR this winter. I thought the process of repairs and the painting might interest a couple of members. Please feel free to make any suggestion Cheers ! Here are the work done so far : Plastic repairs with hot staples, reinforced with fiberglass and resin at the back

I have a 1990 VFR750 with some running problems, I'm looking for some help with this bike. First I'd like to add some backstory to this bike. I picked up this bike for a trade (rode for an hour to get it) and when I got it I got a chance to ride it. When I went to make the trade the bike would stall out about 10min after riding (but could punch it and get it up to 11k rpm and into 3rd and fourth gear) and the previous owner kept having to jump start it. He drove an hour to me (swears he had no problems up till the trade) but owner did let me know that he picked it up from someone who let it sit for a year. When riding for about 5-10 minutes the bike won't throttle over 5000 rpm and as soon as you let in on the clutch and throttle it would die. I put in a new battery and after about 10min of the bike running with choke on i was able to ride it with the choke off. Went and rode it for about 30min with a friend and it only died twice and i kept having to mess with the idle screw, sometimes it would idle at 4000 sometimes would feel like it was about to die. I had a friend come take a look at the bike and found that it had a aftermarket rectifier and fuel pump in it and the intake for the bike was partially tied shut with what can I only assume is hobby wire. As of right now with fresh battery it will only run with choke on at 1000 RPM as soon as you touch the throttle it dies. I have done some basic checks: All connections for charging system are clean and not burnt. I reinstalled the correct rectifier SH701-12 (owner said that was on the bike originally) Runs at 12.06 volts at 1000 RPM and it gets to 13.03 volts at 3000 RPM and seen it peak at 14 at 5000+ RPM (It is at 11.8 volts at 1000 RPM now I think I killed the battery starting the bike multiple times) Reinstalled original fuel pump Ran some mechanic in a bottle through the gas tank to help the carbs Engine oil is clean and at a good level. Low on clutch fluid Air filter is clean No hissing when idling All fuses are okay New AGM Super start battery It dies whenever I touch the throttle or idle screw it dies, I'm thinking bad stator or clogged carbs. Has anyone had this issue or can lead me in the right direction.

G'day, long time no write fellow VFR geeks!! I've spent the last hour going through oh, umpteen search results looking for a thread on how to DIY your own 3rd gen sidestand cover as they are no longer available from OEM part stores and rarer than rocking horse poo on ebay etc. Was there not a thread by someone who fabricated their own? If there was can someone pretty please (with a VFR on top) provide me with a link? If not, I wonder if Seb has ever thought of CDCing or 3D printing one or otherwise looked at providing these as a product, just as with his clear cluth covers??? Bueller? Thanks in advance and do keep the rubber side down!!

Hi all, I read somewhere that it is possible to fit the exhaust downpipes of an RC36II (>1994) model to an RC36I (1991) model. Is there anyone with that experience? And what's the use of the bulky part at the end of the downpipes towards the muffler (see pictures)? Thanks! Jurjen

Hey y’all— I just put a Daugherty 929 shock on my 1990 RC36 and the reservoir is in the way of the starter relay. I’ve seen a little talk about this on newer VFRs but not RC36s. Has anyone else found this? What did you do about it, specifically? I figure I need to move the relay to the right side of the battery. How did you secure it? How did you insulate the terminals? Did you lengthen or shorten wires? Thanks! kevin

Hello, My name is Bill, I live in South Somerset in a tiny village near a town called Chard. I have recently sold a few bikes to buy a stunning 1991 RC36 I am a experienced mechanic and am willing to help anyone I can.

Most people would say that if no one has ever done a particular VFR mod, there's probably a reason. Oh. Yeah, that does make sense... But another way of looking at this would be to say that most people obviously don't enjoy challenges! There are a few reasons why the SC63 triple clamps are nevertheless a good candidate for a VFR fork swap, and a few reasons why they're not. The pros: 1. They've got a 35mm offset. Most other VFRs have a 40mm offset, but the "traditional" Frankenviffer fork swap uses triple clamps from the CBR900RR Fireblade series (929, 954) or VTR1000 SP1/SP2/RC51, all of which have a 30mm offset. A 10mm reduction in fork offset is substantial, so trail will be increased quite a bit unless other things are done to decrease it (such as raising the rear or lowering the front). The VFR1200 yokes' offset is closer to the RC36's yokes' offset, so fewer other changes to the suspension would be required compared with using 30mm offset triples. 2. They don't need completely new bump stops. The VFR1200's bump stops are too tall, but only by about 5mm, so they can be shaved down fairly easily (I used an end mill mounted on the chuck in my drill press). They're not in exactly the right place, but they can be drilled and threaded to use M6 bolts as adjustable bump stops. 3. The VFR1200 yokes appear to be very strong. Coming off a heavier bike, it's not surprising that they are very substantial. 4. There's no need to use a different lower bearing. They use the same upper and lower bearings as the RC36, so no need to use a 3mm spacer (which is required to fit the CBR/RC51 SP1 lower yoke into the RC36 headstock. 5. In theory, yokes with more offset should = more steering lock. We'll see if it makes any practical difference, but the traditional swap noticeably reduces steering lock, so more would be better. The cons: 1. The RC36 fairing stay needs to be seriously modified. Yup, there's no way around that. By "seriously" I mean the main top fairing stay will have to be cut and welded in order to even clear the VFR1200's lower triple. Facing forward and looking down through the LHS top yoke opening in this pic, you can see the lower yoke opening--that's as far as it goes before it hits the fairing stay! FIrst it hits the side of the fairing stay's horizontal tubing (both sides do this), but even if that tube were flattened it wouldn't get very far before hitting the mounting brackets (again, on both sides). I can see that the offending parts of the fairing stay can be cut away and new bits welded on, so that is what I plan to do. Unfortunately, I haven't welded anything in about 10 years--and I wasn't very good then! 2. The lower clamp has 55mm fork tube openings. (Most USD forks used on Frankenviffer swaps are 54mm in the bottom clamping area.) This is not really a huge issue. When I bought my lower triple clamp from the ever-helpful KenG he included some 0.5mm aluminum shim stock, which can be wrapped around the fork bottoms to effectively increase the fork diameter to 55mm, which should then clamp perfectly in the VFR1200 lower triple clamps. (The upper is the same size as the others.) 3. The VFR1200 upper triple clamp is not really a gull wing. It looks like the 929/954 top clamp from the top, but it is really just sloped on the top; the bottom surface is flat. Of course, you cannot use another top clamp because it would have a different offset, too. But the difference is not much (and it is sloped), so this shouldn't affect the clip-on location too much. 4. It's not very easy to find VFR1200F triple clamps. They're available from Honda, of course, but like all OEM parts, they're very expensive even from a good discount Honda parts place like Partzilla. I have been scouring eBay US and UK for VFR1200 front end parts for months, and have seen very few sets appear. Not enough crashing, guys--please see what you can do to increase the supply! So, over the next few months/years/decades I intend to do this swap, using SP1/SP2 forks and front wheel, and will post my "progress" here. Obviously, the main problem is the fairing stay. I've got some ideas and I think I can modify the stay, but it could all go pear-shaped, too. I wonder if my welder still works? Ciao,

Hello, I'm not that much of a fan of forum's(to many people saying what can and can't be done) and i dont like 4 strokes (tractors) ........but horses for coarsers and I do like to try and help spark an idea or two. I'll start at the start. I bought a VFR 750 RC36 over a year ago to commute, I haven't commuted for many many years and to be truthful I've never ridden a sports-tourer, my first ride was nearly my last.......I never new a motor cycle could turn that wide and need so much effort.........must do something about the super long wheelbase and playing with the rake and trail. OK so after a play in the shed, if got the sag to 30mm (not ideal but it's the best I can get with the 954 rear shock) a home made top shock mount has given me some more ride height. A quick squint on ebay I found a company making a set of different lower suspension plates (they wouldn't make a set to my spec, so I welded them up and drill them where I wanted them) that will raise the rear 45mm add this with my ride height adjuster I'll get a shorter wheelbase, reduced rake, more weight over the front........it's worth a go. This was a step in the correct direction, but I found that other riders would push past and then hold me up in corners, I think due to the pipe and slippers look of the old girl, so she needs to loose weight (I'll take weight loss over BHP any day) gain more weight over the front, look like a race track refugee and a set of Dunlop 212 gp in medium............RC36 here we come. so a quick add on Gumtree had a buyer for the pipe and the fairing's and my lovely wife looking at a rolling chassis in the shed, I had a couple of days to get this up and running for work............fire up the espresso machine, it's going to get a little busy. After a look through my fairing collection I pulled out the TYGA fairings that I deemed to big to go on my MC21 SP (I've been waiting for my brother to highside his Gixxer thou to put them on.......but alas after 14 years I've given up waiting). A TYGA maggot muffler and the removal of the cat should give her a nice unsilenced note above 2,500 ish RPM (this should keep the locals happy till she is rolling), removing the snorkel from the air box and enlarging the intake 5% with 132.5 mj's has taken care of the mix. A mix of 636 and CBR rearsets has taken care of the feet and a set of clipons set up wiiiiiiiide has the hands somewhere to sit. what this has done has lost a lot of weight and sag is at 15mm........she steer's nicely, brakes better, changes line like a squirrel on speed So that's DemiRacer part one

Guys, I have a 4th gen VFR with 25k that I've had for 5 years now and I've done lots of upgrades to it (attached). I love the thing and can't imagine selling it. But I've always lusted the RC51 SP2 and finally in a place where I can possibly afford one that has not been abused. It's actually in MINT condition, first owner, factory everything down to tail light, including dealer brochures. Except for the Jardine full system and a PC3 (attached). But I'm on the fence because all the white noise in my head. it's a 14 year old heavy bike with outdated machinery compared to newer stuff. Why am I spending so much for something this old when the 2017 CBR is supposed to kill everything. also the fact that I probably won't get much back for this bike in terms of resale value since it's a small market etc etc. Then on the other hand I am a VFR owner and there's a plethora of reasons for owning something so unique, beautifully engineered with a rich racing heritage. So here's your chance to donate your 2¢.

Hi guys, so i have just finished up my front end swap on my 3rd gen, but the fairings are still bare naked fiberglass, and as this would be the third time that this bike has needed a color change i was hoping some of you guys can give me some ideas & point me in the right direction. 1st color scheme 2nd color scheme how she looks at the moment so while I was busy with my build, i was scratching my head on what i should do with the color scheme for the bike when she was on the road again, & I still have not come up with any good ideas. the one suggestion i kept getting was to spray the whole bike black, & polish the rims up completely, but i found this pic & I am not sure if i like it. I have got a set of nice red Honda decals that I intend on using when I spray the bike. . Please share you ideas & thoughts.