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Showing results for tags 'brake'.
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Hi everyone. I had a near dead experience past week due to my 2010 Honda VFR1200 having a major braking malfunction. I have owned the old school 2002 and 2004 vfr800 and they have been nothing but a blessing to ride, so I decided I give the vfr1200 a try. Got one a few months back in almost pristine condition and with only 13k miles. The other day I took this bike out for a ride in the back roads. Towards the end of my ride (I was riding a pretty good pace) Im going about 60 mph I apply the front brakes and nothing I apply the rears and nothing. The entire brake system it seemed was disengaged. I thought for sure I was going to crash but I somehow managed to make it out of the turn (If I didn't I would have been on the bottom of the mountain and pretty dead). When I came to a stop I noticed fluid dripping all over my rear tire which seemed to be coming from the rear brake caliper. After I came to a stop and restarted the bike in like 2 mins the front brake was working fine now but the rear brake was still gone. I got home inspected the brakes and I will include pictures of what I saw. I have never seen anything like this. The rear brake pads which were pretty new have been grinded down to bare metal, the disk pad is shredded and the caliper pistons have been pushed out with such force that they have peeled back into themselves like a banana, in the process the o-rings have blown and all the rear brake fluid has been leaked out. I would like to add that the front brake system is absolutely fine. You can imagine at this point I'm quite upset. I have a few questions from the VFR experts and mechanics in here. Look at the pictures and give me your input on what might have happened here cause i'm clueless. Can the ABS system on this bike completely disable both the front and rear brake systems? If yes isn't that a big safety issue? What would cause the pistons to act in such way? Any input appreciated I will soon talk to an expert mechanic that will inspect the bike and a lawyer.
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Hi there, With the last track day this coming Saturday, I am in a pinch and need to replace my bent OEM brake lever for my 1998 VFR 800. I've been scouring the internet, but I know this is also the place to go and ask if in need. I've been staring at $200 replacements and even $10 replacements, though admittedly the point I am at is speed to get it to me before Thursday. I've been looking through Amazon with prime and seems I could get one here on Friday, heh with a quick turnaround for Saturday's track day. Any resources or suggestions? I would be cool with a simple OEM replacement. Or is this just a call to the local Honda shop on Monday morning to ask how soon/if they could get one over? Thanks for the time and happy riding!
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My bike has had several owners, and I am pretty sure it had some track day use prior to me (although I am track day-ing it now :) ) This is my first sport style bike, I had a cruiser before - In performance situations, I am not sure what a CBS system is supposed to feel like compared to a standard system. I'd like to test to see if a previous owner disabled the CBS system. How can I test to make sure the brake system is working as a CBS system, or what should I look for?
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Hi everyone, I am trying to put a 1998 vfr back on the road and am having trouble bleeding the brakes. The bike has 17,xxx miles and was rideable as purchased but ran rough and didn't start easily. I have already done a tune up, added a VFRness, replaced and rebuilt the forks (bent in an accident), greased the head bearings, changed coolant, added speed bleeders all around and replaced all the brake pads. Clutch has already been bled and the lever feels very firm. There is also a long list of missing bits and broken plastic to deal with in time. Unfortunately the manual doesn't make much sense to me since I'm not using a vacuum bleeder. Bare with me as I try to explain. I have already used a few bottles of brake fluid attempting the bleed the brakes and all fluid is coming out clear. I'm attempting to bleed in this order: Front right caliper top bleeder (pump at hand lever), front right caliper center bleeder (pump at foot lever), front left caliper top bleeder (with caliper removed and tilted to help air escape, pumped at hand lever and secondary master cylinder), front left caliper center bleeder (pump at foot lever), rear caliper front bleeder (pump at foot lever), rear caliper center bleeder (pump at foot lever), and then bled at the proportion valve (foot lever). The rear brakes feels strong but the front lever is weak. I repeated this procedure when I continued to see air bubbles rising from the proportion valve bleeder, but I believe this is related to the secondary master cylinder. With all bleeders closed and pressing the rear brake lever firmly down I can hear some gurgling or squeaking in the lines up front. I can also hear something strange with the system closed and pumping the secondary cylinder manually. It feels like it's not moving much fluid, and appears to be moving barely any fluid at all out of the proportion valve bleeder when opened. However, pumping the secondary master cylinder appears to add air to the lines, because when I pump the secondary cylinder by hand and then press on the foot lever I get a lot of air out of the proportion valve. I have repeated this ad nauseum with four bottles of brake fluid to no improvement. The secondary master cylinder continues to feel like it hasn't been primed and just sloshes fluid back and forth, and whenever I pump the secondary and go to back to the proportion valve air bubbles still come out. Any advice?
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Stupid question; can anyone please guide me on how to replace/check the rear brake pads. For the life of me I can't quite see how worn they are, nor can I find an easy way to remove the brake unit like you can with the front ones (they were easy). I have a terrible PDF manual downloaded from the internet, but the quality of the photos are poor and I can't quite make out what's pointing to what. Any photos with arrows would be gratefully appreciated! I'm fairly sure mine needs a replacement, and if it's as easy as the front, I'd much rather do it myself then pay a shop to do it. Thanks in advance.
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Its been over a month since I bought the 8th gen VFR800 and I haven't turned a wheel yet. My mission is to modify the bike so I can ride it with one hand. This is my 10-11 bike so i know what i'm doing. Because I'm trying to do it a little differently, its taking much longer than I expected. The 8th gen comes with ABS on the USA deluxe model so the brake lines are both rubber and hard lines. This is great in modifying the brakes as I can tie into the junction blocks that connect the rubber & hard lines. The challenge is where to find the adapters that will makes this happen. Since my usual method was to remove all the lines and make my own steel braided lines, this area of expertise is new to me. This new approach saves me from ripping the new bike apart and the $$ to make the lines. I am using Goodridge prefitted lines and they did have an adapter that fit the rear brake junction block (see pic). My dilemma is finding an adapter that will join the front OEM hard line and the Goodridge line. I've already wasted $65 and two weeks waiting for the wrong parts from the UK. Now I'm looking at auto brake parts catalogs like www.jegs.com for help. Three units are on there way, but that's another 7 days down the tubes. A side plan is to machine an existing OEM brake line junction block. That part is on its way too.
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hello bros, i want to buy the rear brake disc of my honda, but i actually live in Guatemala so is pretty difficult to buy the items for my honda, I want to know things like, other models of motorcycles disc is okey?
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I'm certain this has been described here before but I'm having some trouble locating the information I need. Exactly what parts are needed to swap the lowers from a VTR1000F lower fork assembly onto 5th gen uppers? Obviously the lowers themselves. Axle? Wheel? Brake Rotors? Spacers? I don't really need a how-to, just a list of the required parts. I've wavered back and forth on de-linking and have come to the conclusion that I just don't like the feel of the VFR brakes. The system has been totally rebuilt including SS brake lines with about 1/2 a season of use and have never felt better, but I'm just not happy with it. I don't want a full front end swap since I am more than satisfied with the DMr fork kit.
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Those of you paying attention to the RC79 Instant Suspension Tune thread will know that I changed out my stock tires a few weeks ago. I went strictly by the manual for pretty much everything, including the bizarre tighten / loosen / tighten procedure for the bits on the front forks. Everything except one thing... The manual says all the bolts holding the brake calipers on are supposed to be replaced with new bolts. Really? New bolts with every tire change and brake job? At $11+ apiece..? What's the liability, having not replaced them? Or, how many remove/install cycles can we get away with and why? What are the chances that a Honda dealer shop would ever even bother? FWIW I see the same bolts are also used on every CBR600RR since 2005.
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Are the brake pads the same for front and rear? What are the best pads to get? Should rotors be replaced along with pads? Thanks!
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Hi, At work I have a bunch of BMW dot 4 brake fluid that I wan to use but I don't know if the vfr requires special brake fluid for bikes or if it's all the same? If it doesn't matter than I get to do a brake/clutch flush for free Thanks
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- brake
- brake fluid
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Bike was dirty, so I took it to a car wash bay and cleaned it myself, carefully make sure not to spray hard or directly onto dash. Cleaned, waxed, and now it looks great. Was about to go for a ride after and did a pre ride check...my rear brake (both front lever and rear pedal) does not illuminate the brake light. Turn signal plus tag lights do not work, horn does not work, and hazards do not work. High beams DO work, and starter works as well. I am wondering if water did creep it's way somewhere and shorted something out, but I am at a loss on where to start. I have the VFRness on my bike as well, does that control those lights too? Is there a main fuse for these lights I should look at?
- 7 replies
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- 6th gen
- turn signal
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I've run into an issue with my "new to me" 1994 VFR750 and I'm having a bit of trouble figuring out where my problem is. Left front brake caliper is not releasing when I release the brake lever. Right side works fine, but the left drags pretty severly. When I check, there is pressure in the left caliper. I decided it must be crud in the line somewhere after the split. Bought a set of speed bleeders and started adding new brake fluid. Old fluit was dark yellow but no crud floating around in it. Used the full bottle of fluid to make sure there was no old fluid in either line. Problem is still the same. If I turn the bleeder, it releases pressure and then the brake does not drag Any suggestions or thoughts?
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I'm trying to upgrade the stock brake system on my 1200, but I'm not sure if it would interfare with the ABS system. I'm looking at a few things for it so far: Brembo master cylinder [ http://www.oppracing...ster-cylinders/ ] that website is not that good since it dosnt list a master cylinder for the 1200 or a way to figure out what size could you use, this one does through explain "how to" [ http://www.cyclebrakes.com/html/brembo_cylinders.html ] that one is one of the parts Im not so sure would fit right due to the ABS, any one swapped theirs? Thinking about getting one for the rear later on as well. Stainless steel brake lines front and back [ http://www.galferusa...ng-motorcycles/ ] I'll need the stock dimensions to get those made, if theyre not in the manual than it will be a little bit of searching around and measuring with a string to do... Brake pads EBC Sintered Double-H Rated Pads front and back [ http://www.perfectbr...ts.asp?cat=4083 ] Since calipers from Brembo are like 2000$ for just the front set and rotors are around 600$ a pop I decided to stick to stock with those... Do any of you know where is the ABS chip connected, and would swapping the master cyliner impact it in any way?
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Just reduced the length of my stock front brake lever. 1st cut it off square with my angle cutter ; Then rounded the end to the shape I wanted on my bench grinder Then used my wire wheel BG'r to smooth things out ; next using my Dremmel I made a indent/scoop at the end of the lever for my finger and smoothed it all out ; Then using my dremmel again with jewelers tips took out the imperfections and glossed the finish, which I'll get back on it tomorrow as I still see areas I need to work on with assorted sandpapers.