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Last night I massaged a 2012 ZX14R rear shock into my 1990 RC36. I expected an easy, cheap improvement over my 25 y/o stock Showa, however, preliminary testing is proving to be far, far better than even I anticipated. It feels like the rear shock from the big Kawasaki beast was built for the early model viffer, giving it a dominant stance, and as an unforeseen bonus it breathed new life into my bone stock front end. I originally intended to post this up only after a thorough test period (at least 1000 miles, pushing it under various conditions), but I'll save that for an update now because it looks and feels so good that I got anxious to share. So keep in mind that this experimental, and for the moment should only be attempted by those who have a basic understanding of suspension systems and those who are comfortable with simple to intermediate level modifications. I believe this could be a new serious option for those who want a "budget friendly" suspension upgrade that will provide the look, handling, and adjustability of a high-end custom shop setup. These legendary 3rd gens aren't getting any younger, and it's getting harder and harder to find decent (read: affordable) aftermarket support. Soon it will be a necessity to improvise upgrades and fixes for the whole damn bike, but that's what I really like about owning one ;) How about you? .

I have a 1990 VFR750 with some running problems, I'm looking for some help with this bike. First I'd like to add some backstory to this bike. I picked up this bike for a trade (rode for an hour to get it) and when I got it I got a chance to ride it. When I went to make the trade the bike would stall out about 10min after riding (but could punch it and get it up to 11k rpm and into 3rd and fourth gear) and the previous owner kept having to jump start it. He drove an hour to me (swears he had no problems up till the trade) but owner did let me know that he picked it up from someone who let it sit for a year. When riding for about 5-10 minutes the bike won't throttle over 5000 rpm and as soon as you let in on the clutch and throttle it would die. I put in a new battery and after about 10min of the bike running with choke on i was able to ride it with the choke off. Went and rode it for about 30min with a friend and it only died twice and i kept having to mess with the idle screw, sometimes it would idle at 4000 sometimes would feel like it was about to die. I had a friend come take a look at the bike and found that it had a aftermarket rectifier and fuel pump in it and the intake for the bike was partially tied shut with what can I only assume is hobby wire. As of right now with fresh battery it will only run with choke on at 1000 RPM as soon as you touch the throttle it dies. I have done some basic checks: All connections for charging system are clean and not burnt. I reinstalled the correct rectifier SH701-12 (owner said that was on the bike originally) Runs at 12.06 volts at 1000 RPM and it gets to 13.03 volts at 3000 RPM and seen it peak at 14 at 5000+ RPM (It is at 11.8 volts at 1000 RPM now I think I killed the battery starting the bike multiple times) Reinstalled original fuel pump Ran some mechanic in a bottle through the gas tank to help the carbs Engine oil is clean and at a good level. Low on clutch fluid Air filter is clean No hissing when idling All fuses are okay New AGM Super start battery It dies whenever I touch the throttle or idle screw it dies, I'm thinking bad stator or clogged carbs. Has anyone had this issue or can lead me in the right direction.

I found these 3rd gen parts and thought that someone here might find them useful. They've all been in a box for 20+ years since I last had a 3rd gen VFR. I'd prefer to send them all as a package, no charge except for shipping. The small cover is n.o.s., I'd fitted a switch for my grip heaters in the original and wanted an unmolested spare - just in case. The chain guard shows some light scuffing but otherwise in good nick. The batter strap is used but definitely serviceable. Not 100% sure it's from a 3rd gen, though. The two rubber blocks are cushions for the front right & left side of the fuel tank. Again, these are used and a little stiff with age.

I'm new to the VFR as I just bought this 1990 VFR750F over the weekend for $700 and drove it home (which was quite scary given the condition of the tires and how it didn't want to lean). The trooper currently has 55k miles on the odo. The seller had owned the bike since 2003 and it was his first bike. I believe he was only the second owner of it and left it completely stock other than the rear fender. Ultimately, I plan on building this into something much sleeker and lighter weight than stock. Something sort of cafe racer / tracker style. I don't care to keep the bike looking original but am quite fascinated with the history of the VFR series. I have read hours of articles, forum posts and watched countless videos on the bike already. Seems I got quite lucky finding a 3rd gen and getting a seemingly great deal. I have already ordered some parts: Sheet of all parts/costs $188 - Tires: Shinko 705 120/70r17 radial and 170/60r17 radial $220 - new brake rotors, pads (and might need a caliper rebuild kit) $ 57 - complete front fork rebuild kit (bushings, seals, etc.) $ 17 - Maxima 5WT Fork Oil $ 9 - Mahle oil filter $ 21 - Honda GN4 10w-40 engine oil Not sure if I want to do a front fork conversion or not. I figured I'd rebuild the stock ones and try them some more before deciding but what are most peoples thoughts here? Don't know yet if I have the Cali version but if I have EVAP and PAIR then I plan on deleting them. This thread didn't really help but at least I know it's possible. This V4Dreams seems helpful even though he hasn't specifically had a 3rd gen 750. If you're interested in any of my other projects (unfortunately few are documented): 2005 Subaru OBXT build

G'day, long time no write fellow VFR geeks!! I've spent the last hour going through oh, umpteen search results looking for a thread on how to DIY your own 3rd gen sidestand cover as they are no longer available from OEM part stores and rarer than rocking horse poo on ebay etc. Was there not a thread by someone who fabricated their own? If there was can someone pretty please (with a VFR on top) provide me with a link? If not, I wonder if Seb has ever thought of CDCing or 3D printing one or otherwise looked at providing these as a product, just as with his clear cluth covers??? Bueller? Thanks in advance and do keep the rubber side down!!

I recently acquired a 1993 VFR750. Little rough, but good price and figured it'd be a nice project bike. I'll link the thread that the previous owner posted trying to figure it out, but basically he let it set for a couple years, and when he got back to it, the ugly starter clutch was problem arose. After he replaced it, it cranked over fine, but no spark. Since then the ICM and pulse gen coils have been replaced, and we have both been through all the troubleshooting in the manual, and still nothing.

Not sure if this is the right topic, but I bought new pulse gen coils and went to test them according to the manual, and apparently they test bad. I was hoping anyone with a running bike could take a minute and do me a favor by measuring the resistance on their 4 pin plug? Manual says to "measure the resistance between white/yellow-yellow and yellow-white/blue terminals." the resistance should be between 200-400 ohms, but both my old and new one are reading 300 on the first, and if im measuring right, no continuity on the second set. my problem is it appears that the second set is one wire from each coil, and there doesn't seem like there should be any continuity anyways. hopefully this made sense, and also should the coils be gapped from the pickups a specific amount?