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BuzznerSuntrusts

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BuzznerSuntrusts last won the day on August 5 2018

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About BuzznerSuntrusts

  • Rank
    Points if you know the origin!
  • Birthday 10/14/1974

Profile Information

  • Location
    Knoxville, TN
  • In My Garage:
    '99 VFR, '19 Civic Sport 6MT, '92 ST1100

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  1. My favorite CornerCarver line is something like: If I got shot with a .22, and I found out about it...
  2. My ST11/5th Gen is 14mm while the SP1 is 1/2". So swapping out the 14 for the 1/2 on the 5th Gen [Which I did, with the same(?) piston] means more travel at the lever? IDK. I know I like it. I don't think I actually realized the masters were different since the slave cylinders were the same part# 5G to SP1. I keep reading the description under the chart. Easier to push, but more travel, but easier to modulate...? So Stray, what are you after? Maybe the 1/2" master is a better fit than changing the piston? What's the master on the 6G? You'd probably want the "coffin box" reservoir of the stock VFR to match the brake. With the ST11, it was engaging waaaaay out and far too long for my comfort. After getting the return port cleared, it was better, but still a touch too long for my taste. Maybe that's down to clutch wear and not hydraulics?
  3. Yes, that. I’m kinda slow, so the whole bearings thing never clicked until I had my wheel off for powder coat and installed the spacers and bearings on the axle without the wheel. 😄 Also when I decided to grease the dust seals every time I put the wheel back on. They rotate on the spacers which are stationary.
  4. It “pumped up” the clutch. I took it out for the first shakedown ride after clearing and rebuilding the carbs (and other stuff) and eventually the clutch started slipping and finally sticking fully disengaged. On the c-stand, in gear, easily turn the rear wheel. I let it sit for 20-30 minutes thinking it was a heat thing (I’ve had brakes do that) but no change. Finally I cracked the banjo slightly and that released the pressure so I could ride home. I bled it first, thinking it was crud or bad fluid. Also the little metal thing that sits over the return hole was missing and the rubber expandable seal thingy was ajar. A second ride produced the same results, so I swapped out masters with my old ‘99 VFRs that’s been in the shelf since the SP1 front end swap. Solved it and I broke down the ST master to see what was up. The return hole is under the solid part of the metal thing (it’s there to stop the return flow from shooting up. Why? No idea. It was plugged solid. I stripped some wire and tried to pass it through, but nothing doing. I think I over answered your question, and if it was brakes they would lock solid until you cracked the banjo to release the pressure.
  5. Yep, you’re correct. There should be a tiny amount of movement in the center spacer. If not it is putting a side load on the balls. Too much space and it will do the same once the axle bolt is tightened. I think there is a side that goes in first and fully seated allowing you to judge the second. But I don’t remember for sure if or which.
  6. I forgot about my Pan. I picked up a '92 ST1100 earlier this year as a project. Turned out the master cylinder return port was plugged solid so I stuck my old VFR master on it as they are the same. Guessing the slave cylinder is close to if not the same as 5th Gen.
  7. I did the entire front end and had the parts on hand, so that's why I went with the SP1 master. I just felt better. Firmer, I could cycle it faster in multiple gear downshifts/blipping.
  8. Didn’t know 5th and 6th were different. I know 5th shares part # with RC51. I put an SP1 master on mine with a braided line and think it is much improved. Probably more the line than the master.
  9. I almost did a 25th on my ‘99. I like it. I am not a fan of number plates on street bikes. I never even wanted white number plates on my track bikes since I never “earned” them. For a few years I went with the factory silver from Canada and a black front fender. Also factory color from Canada. Not a fan of red, personally, but broken with black accents is better. #3 breaks it up nicely and not an overtly number plate rear design. Looks like there is a front number plate, and I don't care for that/ Something with same kinda lines of the 25th but different colors would work using the natural lines in the bodywork. I would replace the white with the base red, make the blue black, and white stripes in place of the red. Mine is a single color silver/grey kinda thing with no decals and carbon front fender. (I’ve since replaced the Sargent with another without the red piping. Also the mirrors were replaced with genuine Suzuki over the crap aftermarket)
  10. That’s great to hear! That’s one thing I did last year, put a filter on the breather and block the air box. I also use Costco gas whenever I can cause its top tier. I haven’t ever taken a look at my ‘99 104,000 mile intake valves.
  11. I did basically the same and installed an expensive clear tail light by Thurn in Germany. Now it's cracked in a couple places and I bought an unmolested used fender/rear tray to regain my fender.
  12. Well, yes and no. I actually watched one of my box truck rears explode once. I was looking in my right mirror to change lanes at the moment it let go. It didn’t fly out the side at the same angle as the Mythbuster test did. Rotational force and whatnot. Not saying it’s a good time, but... One in a million maybe. Still, don’t hang around big trucks just in general.
  13. Is that the test? Maybe 5th Gen engine?
  14. Very cool! We never got that anniversary edition here in the US. I’ve seen them before but never noticed the stripes on the tank.
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