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gll429

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Everything posted by gll429

  1. are you SURE its spray paint ? not plastidip ? 1st thing to try on the paint.. GASOLINE!! depending on how long its been on the bike. it may just wipe right off.. start on the gastank 1st.. DONT use it for the gauges or windscreen with those will be better off using your fingernail to chip off the over spray on the clear parts... hopefully once you have all the blue off the body a light buff will bring back the shine.
  2. starts with riding the bike! ALL OF THEM GET NOTCHY ! EVERY BICYCLE TOO!! its called normal wear and tear. even on perfectly adjusted bearings torqued with the most sensitive robotics that money can buy. . the only way to avoid getting it that way is to park the bike and never ride it.
  3. yes , every bike on the road gets this sooner or later . you need to change the neck bearings. go with tapered roller bearing. they will last longer.. key word..LONGER.
  4. check your VFRD email inbox..
  5. Owning is different than wrenching in a shop. i personally have had it happen twice ,on an 87 .. catching fire once.
  6. no, its not. its rather common. i must have changed a good 25 to 30 over the years with this problem. i have written about it at least 3 times on here..
  7. what MOST people forget.. and why the new seals leak.. YOU MUST PREP THE FORK TUBE. there is a reason your seal is leaking.. is the tube scratched ? pitted ?? what ever.. who cares.. the point is 99% DONT polish the tube with 0000 steal wool.. and forget use condoms on the fork, yes, you read that right.. put a condom on the end you plan on sliding the seal. .. it will protect the lip of the seal past sharp edges and clamp marked areas. slide on seal.. cut of tip of condom.. slide to the seals operating area.. snip condom as close to seal as possible, and remove rest from seal.
  8. you can do a temp fix with SEAL ALL.. but your best bet is replacing it and adding longer lines to mount the pump vertically.. the leak and a horizontal pump has lead to more than one pump catching fire..
  9. the relay just turns on the power to the pump when the bike is on.. .so yes it could have been bad or just stuck one day.. the pump itself has very little pressure and simply stop pumping with resistance.. you need to check the points under the black cap and make sure they are flat. you can lightly file them. or place fine sand paper in between and put it out.. the weird thing about these pumps.. they are set up sideways.. and with time they develop leaks.. which flow into the "top" aka electrical side of the pump and SHORT IT OUT......makes it stop pumping.. until the gas evaporates then it starts up again.. now the fun part..depending on other conditions the pump can catch fire! happened twice to me and a few other people.. i now mount mine vertically..when not by passing it all together..
  10. so they like screwing you guys over ?? it cost less than $100 with roadside service in VT.
  11. http://mcguirelocksmith.com/service-articles/automotive/sidewinder-honda-motorcycle-keys/ as quoted. Bring or call in your key code to our store. If you have no idea what a key code is, chances are you don’t have it. We can still make you a key by bringing in the entire bike or just the ignition to our store in Kansas City. this not the shop i used.. i was in VT..
  12. i took it of in case it did have the code for the key.. not sure if it did. it took him about 20 min from arrival to leaving. .he had access to my whole bike. ecu was out in case he needed it. i dont know what he did , but he said he had done a ton of bikes and that is not any different than a car.
  13. he came to the bike in the parking lot . had is laptop sitting on the bike.. i took off the cylinder because as a motorcycle mechanic, it was 2 min and saved me $50..
  14. no idea, i am not lock smith! i did take off the cylinder and gave it to him.. he cut a key and and pulled up something on his lap top.. and matched the chip..
  15. YES YOU CAN.. a good lock smith with current tools can match the ecu to chip key! been there , done that!!
  16. you dont need a key number ..you dont even need keys!! you need the chip to match the HISS .. this how people turn their HISS bikes in to track bikes.. the HISS isnt part of the lock . its bolted on next to the lock. you can buy a lock set since you need to get into the gas .. and under the seat and having a lock on the steering HELPS..but as you know doesnt stop theft.. the lock smith CAN make a key for the gas cap and seat lock by picking open the gascap..
  17. why go to poland when a local locksmith can make the key for you ? you realise its just a small chip inside the key that connects to the HISS.. right ??
  18. why are you worried about a "non moving/ friction" area ? its not a bearing surface, its just the drive sitting there and getting water seeping in . slather it with antiseize and put it back on the bike.
  19. got pictures of the damage lock ? and your paper work?? people dont want to help if you are a thief.. but its very very simple to do..
  20. i can positively say YES THEY WILL!!. how ever .......you do need the carbs and airbox also. i have swapped a 3rd gen into a 4th and vice versa..
  21. dont forget to see if the FAN WORKS! if all else fails just add a switch to turn it on.
  22. will it leak ?? who knows. most likely NOT from those faint marks.. however.. use a CONDOM either from the top or bottom of the tube and slide the seal on to the tube..snip the end of the condom and slide seal past the bushing areas if going from the bottom.. once seal is on "operating area" remove condom.. other bags are little too big and run the risk if tearing the seal lip.
  23. i am 99 % sure the second pic is a vac line to the carbs. trace it back . if it is at the carb. remove it. remove the port and replace with a short allen head bolt. there will be 4 ports. keep them for carb sync in the future.
  24. put "seal all " on the leak.. wait an hour.. go riding
  25. hook your wiring back up to the proper way.. double check your fuses. put the stock cdi unit on . Main ground is the bolt on the cross member on the frame right above the fuel pump. The same bolt holds the crankcase vent bottle to the frame. Pull that connection and clean it up. make sure your battery is at least 11 v.
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