tinyminds

Looks great John. You need to come visit so I can see this thing in person! Keep up the good work :thumbsup: Edit: Next time I see you I want to see how well the MRA windscreen fits up to that bug buster. I have the DB screen also that I use most of the time, but when I'm on trips I change out to MRA. He actually just took the fender eliminator off and put the stock fender back on because hes getting hard bags for it.

I know every dyno is different. Did they follow SAE or STD standards for results or do you know? Mine was SAE guidelines. Did they tune your bike or you throw my map on it? My map was setup for Florida atmosphere, not sure what yours did. I just feeled up with BP gas, which seems to run better than any other gas I put in my bike. I kept 87 octane in it for tuning because thats what I use all the time. I'm sure I could have got a .1-.2 difference every so often if I would have ran premium, but then he bike would be turned for a later combustion time --> to lean when using regular. What other mods do you have on your bike?

Jason, can you clarify this for me. That black wire does not need to be switched? Just run a replacement straight to the battery? I'm really dense when it comes to electrical thingamajigs. The black wire does not have to be switched, but you do have to remove it from the harness and break the connection from the factory harness. If you don't pull the somehow break the connection from the factory harness ( either cut the wire or pull it out of the white r/r connector ) it will send 12v backwards into your ignition allowing the bike to stay running even if you turn the key off. '02-'05 use the same harnesses, which means these problems couple be a potential problem for your '05. I know the wiring harness changed for '06-'07, but I'm not sure and haven't heard of what changes were made to know if they are still a potential problem or not for newer models. So far it seems no one has had an issue on the '06-07's to date, but only time will tell for they are the newest & least milaged VFR's out there so far.

Wish I would have dyno'ed the bike stock also. At the time I had no intentions of modding anywhere near this extent, but you know how that goes. I'll report fuel milage tomorrow, can't ride today, gotta go pick up my g/f's new car 3 hours away <_< . Owe well. That was the agreement when I bought Jeremy's CBR Track bike Friday that +1 bike means +1 car for her . Owe well what can you do! Jason, I did my 02 bone stock: 98.4hps - look in my gallery for the print out. I will have my bike dynoed today or tomorrow: Catless, Loe Vince without baffles and the PCIII (the map loaded at this time is the Remus) I would have used yours or Coyze's but I don't have my PC this weekend, so that'll have to do. Awesome, be sure to post up results.

Wish I would have dyno'ed the bike stock also. At the time I had no intentions of modding anywhere near this extent, but you know how that goes. I'll report fuel milage tomorrow, can't ride today, gotta go pick up my g/f's new car 3 hours away <_< . Owe well. That was the agreement when I bought Jeremy's CBR Track bike Friday that +1 bike means +1 car for her :rolleyes: . Owe well what can you do!

One of the service guys at the shops going to be emailing me a PDF file of the graph. I have a paper copy, but no scanner etc. He said he would get it to me after he got home tonight. :thumbsup:

Results are in. Picked my bike back up from the tuners. Took him almost 3 hours, 26 miles, and 1/2 tank of gas. So much smoother now. As some of you know, I installed 99 VFR Headers on my bike ( Catless Headers ) and already have several mods done before this one including Staintune Exhaust, K&N Air Filter, Power Commander 3, and 02 Sensor Eliminators. Heres my before & afters. Before: 2004 Honda VFR800 (Staintune Exhaust, K&N Air Filter, Power Commander 3 "Running Cozye's Map ) After: 2004 Honda VFR800 (Catless 99 Headers, Staintune Exhaust, K&N Air Filter, Power Commander 3 "Dynotuned Map") Before ------ After @ 20% Throttle Opening HP: 23.6 ----- 32.8 TQ: 31.8 ----- 36.3 @ 40% Throttle Opening HP: 47.9 ----- 64.6 TQ: 45.2 ----- 47.1 @ 60% Throttle Opening HP: 78.3 ----- 87.6 TQ: 51.2 ----- 53.3 @ 80% Throttle Opening HP: 94.8 ----- 100.3 TQ: 54.6 ----- 56.1 @ 100% Throttle Opening HP: 101.2 ----- 109.3 TQ: 57.7 ----- 59.2 Vtec is smooth as butter, and the mapping at highway speeds should be any different than I was getting with Cozye's map w/o catless headers. Something I realized he did in the mapping is put a 4 in the 2000rpm 0% slot and a -8 in the 1000rpm 0% slot, to help remove the fuel injection delay, made a huge throttle response difference. Below is a link of the map thats on my PC3 now. Note: This made is designed for catless headers, I wouldn't recommend using it on stock headers. Heres the map file: Vtec_CatlessHeaders_Staintunes_K_N_PC3_No_O2s_.djm Time to go ride!

I just put 30amp fuses in them since thats what the factory harness has in it. The biggest change in voltage from what I've seen on my bike and others is when replacing that 'black' voltage monitor wire from the R/R. Theres a major major progressive resistance problem in that wire somewhere. Someday I want to take the front end off and track that wire down to see exactly whats the problem in the wire from the ignition to the R/R. Mine has a major issue with about 9.3 ohms of resistance from the monitor wire to ignition, which was upping voltage output to 16V +. Since replacing that wire, I can remove the fuses from positive side running to the regulator to the battery to test it and it only causes a 0.6v voltage drop. So basically by rerunning that black wire to my battery allowing correct voltage monitoring, solve a lot of overcharging issues in that alone.

Figured I would post this from a different thread since its pretty well related to this one:

So, does this wire need to be switched? My black lead into the R/R is not hot when the bike is turned off. I don't have me service manual on me, so I can't double check what wire is what, and verify that this is the voltage regulator monitor wire. You can run it constant w/ no problems, but you have to disconnect it from the 'White/Black' wire on the female side of the R/R Connector and cut it off or tape that wire off or it will send a 12 volt feed backwards to the ignition, causing the bike to keep running even when you turn the key off. You don't have power to that black wire when the key is off because its reading voltage from the ignition, but its just monitoring the voltage, not actually putting it to use. Running it constant instead or switching it the way it is factory, makes no difference, all the R/R cares about is how much power is at the battery, when the bike is off, voltage is still feeding to the monitor wire, but its just sitting there, no current draw from it at all. Next week I'm going to look at trying to track down exactly where and what is causing the resistance problem in that 'white/black' wire that seems to be a known issue. Not sure if its a short somewhere in the wire or a connector problem along the way. Its a tiny wire, so short could easily be a problem, but it appears to be a progressive problem, slowly getting worse and worse, which makes me think its heat related. Will keep you informed. If that doesn't make sense let me know, I'll draw up a diagram.

Neeto!

Summary:::::::::::: So relating to what you posted about running high voltage, I finally got my bike back together after doing the wiring mods, then hooked up multimeter, started her up, woooooooo 16.0vdc. Not cool. Well that wasn't right thats for sure. So, I got a different Multimeter because I have blown several Amp fuses in that meter and was thinking maybe somehow I damaged the meter, since I pretty much just use that meter for amperage testing. So, new meter, boom..... 16.0vdc. Well, I wasn't happy. So, I remember Jeremy mentioning to me that he had this problem and it was an issue with the R/R's Monitor Feed ( Black Wire > Ignition ). So pull that fairing off again, backprob the 'black wire from R/R with one multimeter, while leaving the other multimeter hooked directly up to the battery, ( Battery showing: 16.0vdc, Black wire showing: 12.3vdc ). Cha..ching! So, pulled the black wire out of the stator connector harness, hooked it separately ( out of the connector ) up to the battery direct to she if this helps the problem, plugging the harness back up which connects all the wires but the ' black > white / black '. So hooked this wire up, boom, voltage charge dropped instantly from 16.0vdc to 14.7vdc. So hook up a perminant wire from stator voltage monitor wire ' black wire ' to battery, still solid 14.7vdc. Slapped fairing back on, good as gold. Edit: if you run a new wire from black monitor wire to the battery, you have to, have to, have to disconnect the black wire to white/black wire from eachother in the harness. If you don't when you turn the key off, the bike will keep running because it wills end a reverse 12v feed to the ignition switch, tricking it to thinking the key is still on. Edit End: Come to find out, this high voltage problem has been going on for a while I suppose ( haven't checked voltage in about a month, was good then though ), but didn't test voltage before I started this project, so... lesson learned, but problem solved. So, back to what this thread is about. I ran the two new 12guage stator wires ( red/white ) from regulator to battery to lower resistance while keeping an additional 30amp fuse in each wire. So, pulled the fuses out of the new wires, tested voltage, 14.5 vdc, put fuses back in and tested voltage, 14.7vdc. Not a huge improvement in my case, but dropped resistance on the feeds for sure. Have been pretty constant on doing a lot of preventative stuff without any problems, excluding the new R/R monitor wire I stated above, which has been my first electric issue thus far. Some people get better results than others, but its a peace of mind and worth the time to prevent issues before they occur for me, instead of waiting for things to blow then figure out what happened. :thumbsup:

Might want to check your battery voltage feed to to the R/R resistance, which tells the regulator how much voltage the battery has, essentially the regulator thinks the batteries running at 11 vdc ( example ), so it steps up charging output to make up for the low voltage. ( I'm thinking you shouldn't have more than 0.6 ohms when connecting between the Red/White to Battery + ) I was talking to Jeremy556 about this yesturday and apparently several people have had problem with this, which I was unaware of, but it can cause charging to peak at 16+ vdc sometimes. I don't know a whole lot about what was causing the problem, all I know is Jeremy said when he ran new wires it fixed the problem allowing correct monitoring of battery voltage. Might be worth a farther search on this before getting into it for I just did this to pick up a little voltage and lessen resistance across length & connectors. I think total if you include fuses as connectors, the voltage runs through 4 connectors w/ a 0.2vdc voltage drop off each connector, which off the top is loosing 0.8vdc. Will post final results later. Edited: forgot to add this: was getting 0.6ohms of resistance off the factory feet from r/r to battery, getting 0.15 ohms of resistance off the new wiring. Big improvement of resistance off the top.

Got my bike ripped apart rewiring everything I can think of and decided to add the RR>Battery rewire to the list. Did mini writeup. Most of the stuff should have been covered through the rest of this post, but heres a couple pics of what I did. Haven't got the bike back together to test it but I'll let you know what my results are when I finished, hopefully by Sunday.

Hmm, interesting mod. I like it. :thumbsup:

Wow ken now thats an extreme way to make sure you drill the whole straight. Looks good though I like the idea. Would have never thought about doing it that way. :thumbsup:

Was asked to post this up from another How-To i made here: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=29737