soichiro

That's exactly what mine puts out with all new parts

Burkov, thanks. I like it! Looks good to me. Gonna do the red stripe very thin. Thanks

This bike, this rim.

I cant seem to find a good picture which would be easy to photoshop. KR are initials. Nice dutchy. I have 3 very small blue things on my bike. Funny how blue can make red and blavk look better. Thanks Ken.

I have a friend with terminal cancer. He gave me an 8 spoke wheel I have been trying to but from him for years. I want to powder coat it black, with a thin red stripe at the bead area. I also want to put a KR in between one of the spokes. Can someonr help give me an idea of what it would look like. Going on my red 6th. Gonna do the front the same.

How do I add a simple 2 wire switch to be able to turn the fan on when I want and also work like it normally would? Do I jump the wires from the etc in line with my switch. The fan switch on the rad is a single wire, On honda cars the single wire isf or the guage. Thanks.

You ground the bike from static electricity when you put your foot down. I always put the bike on the centerstand to fill up. Its more stable and you get the tank tiny bit more full. As with anything these days pay attention to your surroundings.

I use the honda car filter. A honda hybrid filter is identical to the bike filter. I use the standard honda auto filter since first oil change. 73k miles now, no problems, still honda but half the price.

Awesome video! I have 73k miles and have never done mine. My flat spot at 4-5k rpm has gotten worse.

I went out this past sunday to a relatively local lake. Their is a marina with restaurant, store. Lots of riders hang out in the shade trees along the property at the lake and just enjoy their day. I went in the store and bought some drinks. When I came out there were 3 harley type guys hovering over my 6th gen. I go to my bike and they instantly started asking questions. They heard me pull in and wanted to know what type engine I had. They said it sounded like a stock car and thought it would be awesome if their HD's sounded like that. They didnt know there were any v4 motorcycles, They said that was awesome, half a v8. One guy points out the swingarm and they were very confused. One guy said "wont that break, it has to flex". I showed him how it's supported and how thick it is and it blew his mind. I told them a goldwing has a sssa and they thought I was lying. Another guy noticed the VTEC emblem I have on my valve covers. All 3 knew of vtec on honda cars but had no idea their was ever a bike made with VTEC INSIDE. Felt pretty damn good to get complements from our brothers on the other side of the fence.

LOL, good one. I have customers ask all the time, "WHAT DID MY OIL LOOK LIKE"? Same answer everytime, BLACK!!!!! Of course i'm talking honda autos. Bike oil at 3k miles looks nothing like car oil at 3k miles. Both are still very much darker than when it was poured out of the bottle.

BLS is right on the money about clutch plate glaze. As he stated riders with many years under their belt de-glazed at least the friction plates, as part of normal maintenance and kept rolling. I raced mx for 2 decades and this was a very common practice. As long as the thickness is in spec all will be good. BLS, you are also right about moly in some of hondas own oil. Honda oil is offered with or without moly. I should of known that. I actually use honda gn-4 dino oil and honda auto filter. I'm a honda auto tech so I get the filters for $5 or so. I have used the honda auto filter since my 2nd oil change and now have 70k plus miles. It must be fine, lol. I have taken a honda bike filter and a honda hybrid filter apart and ck,ed specs. They are identical in nearly everyway except color. I can"t remeMber why honda oil is offered with or without moly. ARE WE REALLY STILL TALKING ABOUT OIL!!!!!!!!!! HOW DID I GET SUCKED IN AGAIN, LOL, LITERALLY!

IIRC moly (molybdenum) is no good for wet clutches. BLS, correct me if thats wrong.

Nearly all oil is excellent in todays world. Service classification is the main thing. API, american petrolum institute service grade. AS bls said energy conserving oil isnt what makes the clutch slip. IT IS FRICTION MODIFIERS THAT CAN MAKE CLUTCH SLIPPAGE. It certainly wont help if your clutch has a good number of miles. Also remember the W in say 10w-40 is not weight. The W means winter. Semi synthetic doesnt mean half and half. It can be 99% dino and 1% synthetic, and be called semi syn. IMHO if someone uses a certain oil and there engine doesnt blow up they consider it good. I am guilty too. If it works it is human nature to continue using it. As stated above the only real ananlysis is to send the oil to a lab, and tear the engine down to measure wear. I tell my customers to use a good brand and stick with it, it's that simple.

My thoughts exactly. Never heard of checking slack with the bike weighted. Chain will be at it's tighest point when the swingarm is in the center of it's stroke. Dont agree at all that the sprockets are damaged with only 6k miles. Chain is too tight and could have some bad links. I dont know how your bike is stored. It's possible there is 1 or more sections seizing. The best method to ck chain wear is pull the chain directly rearward at the sprocket in the rear. pull the chain towards the rear of the bike. Directly where the chain is in the middle of the sprocket. When new it will pull off the sprocket a very small omount. When worn out it will pull far enough back to see the whole tooth on the sprocket. As stated check this in many spots. You stated you lowered the bike. Thats an unknown variable.

Chain looks way too tight to me.I'm pretty positive. I don't like that noise, that's not good. I hope it's just the chain and sprockets. The bottom should be slowing slack will running like that. I mean obvious slack.Slapping is normal, the chain never has to deal with full shock extension while riding.That popping is not normal. Do something simple for me. Place your fingers vertical and tell me how many fingers fit between the chain and bottom of the swingarm. DONT RUN THE BIKE TO LUBE THE CHAIN MY FRIENDS. IF YOU EVER SAW A HAND THAT SLIPPED AND WENT THRU THE SPROCKET YOU WOULDNT DO IT. WE HAVE A CENTERSTAND, JUST TURN IT BY HAND. PLEASE!!!!!!!

Clean your connectors and contacts while your there. I just went thru the whole stator, rr, battery replacemnet. My volts were too low and I kept blowing the 2 20a fuses. I cleaned all the connectors on the right side and at the battery. Volts are now pefect and fuses good. Dirt had gatehered on a tiny bit of dielectric grease and made for bad contacts. Glad I have the right answers. Thanks guys. Tightwad is the man when it comes to electrics. He has helped me many times, good guy, good product,

The original white holder had a 30a from the factory. It is replaced with a 20a. Both the fuse under the red connector and the original 30a in the white holder are main fuses. The vfrness will be a black holder. Also use a 20a. Leave the 30 under the red connector. So I can just leave that 20A in the white holder and leave the 30A under the red boot and then put another 20A in the VFRness white holder? Why did the instructions say to remove the 30A main fuse? Yes, leave what you have. When you were running without the vfrness you should of put the 30a back in the white holder.

The 30a under the boot is the main fuse. The vfrness and the original will both require 20a fuse. you don't have to do anything with the 30a under the red boot. The red is actually a connector. The main fuse is under the connector. Don't have to touch it. The 20a original should be in the white holder. The vfrness basically doubles this circuit with 2 20a fuses. Can take photo or help in anyway. Just went thru my whole system. IIRC THe 20a in the white holder is the one you switched when you installed the vfrness. The bike came with a 30a in the white holder. The vfrness doubled the circuit. The original 30a in the white holder was removed and replaced with a 20a. The vfrness also takes a 20a. So two 20's instead of one 30. Hope that's what your looking for.

It can take a while to get any air out. Dont give up.

Harleys can be fast as hell. Fast enough to smoke a vfr in a drag race. However the harley will have to have 2.3 liter S&S on race gas. My buddy and I had to listen to a guy the other day saying how his buddy could hang with any knee dragging sportbike on his bagger. He didnt mean in a drag race. He swore it could hang in the corners. I've ridden a few v-rods and no matter the foot position thr ground clearence will always hold it back. I have a 1981 honda silverwing gl500. 53hp 530lb's. I have embarrased so many supersports it's hilarious. They get pissed when a underpowered, heavy, bias ply tire wearing old ass bike spanks their rr. Obviously the old bike doesnt have a chance, but at places like the gap it's pretty sad how bad some people ride. Emphasis "BAD" not fast. I went out first thing this morning. A guy on a new 1200 sportster pulled up beside me we dis a 2nd gear launch thru 4th. My ancient heavy bike beat him by 2 lengths. It really is the rider. I have ridden with yellowwolf a few times. The yellow vfr guy. It was about all I could do to stay with. Didnt have much in reserve. I lead and pulled away a good bit.

The ground clearence and riding position is no where near as good for sport riding.

Yep the v-rod is a porsche designed engine. I've ridden 2 and they may be near the same in the quarter mile. but thats it. An average rider on a vfr could smoke a good rider on a v-rod anyday, Look at displacement too. Some harley engines are 3 liters. 2000cc, thats what my wifes mazda has. It's funny, most harley guys dont consider the v-rod a real harley. When they want to compare to a sportbikes the v-rod is all harley. It's fummy.