Captain 80s

I can't tell you how many times I walk around my shop or the shop at work looking for something that is the right diameter

I bet you wish the handle was on the center of the door! I like the white for sure. Always have.

Regarding the height, just make sure there is ample clearance allowing for any possible "growth" of the material from heat. I would knock it down a few thou when the mods are done to make sure. And if you wanted to introduce any timing advance, now is the time. This looks very doable!!

If the garage door handle is in the center, that's a big ass garage door.

I don't. I have a F2 wheel in the wings for the Resto portion of the build.

Thanks!! Pretty sure the 5th/6th front wheel has the discs spread too far apart for the VTR1000F front end. I have a VTR1000F front wheel on my VF1000R in the stock clamps and it fits perfect. I know the 98- VFR triples have a wider spread. People do put 120s on the stock wheel, but I don't agree with that. It's only a 2.5" wheel! A 110/70 isn't even ideal. Lots of opinions on that one, you will find out. The rear wheel can handle a 160, pretty sure stock is 4.5"(?). If the front was even just a 3.0" wheel (like my CB-1), I probably wouldn't of even bothered. But I'm glad I did, cuz I can't stand the stock wheels. Lots of 8 spoke wheels on Hawks, but I wanted to run a 160/60-17 on mine. Oh. and I think the VFR400 8 spokes are 18"(?). They are a super fun bike to mod, they respond very favorably. Congrats! Looks like yours has some cool stuff already. I even think you have the WWR license plate bracket.

Hell yeah. 1988 Spindle modified for VFR rear wheel (94-97). I wanted a 5.0" on this bike, not 5.5. Modified CB-1 Rt Fork Lower for dual Hawk discs (yes overkill, I wanted that look) F3 Master and Calipers with braided lines 1991 VFR 3.5" front wheel Full D&D exhaust RT springs and GVE YSS Shock WWR License Plate Bracket My rearset adapters and headlight relocation plates (so cowl could be where I wanted) F2/F3 Bars I moved a bunch of stuff around to clean up the area around the rear shock./ swingarm. The "Mod" portion is mostly done. The "Resto" is next over one of these winters.

This thread is hilarious. "Sorry guys, I can't make the ride later today. I have to adjust my chain."

Exactly. Except on the street a "tabletop jump" is called a "railroad crossing".

Speak for yourself. Mine do quite often, usually on purpose.

11 years... Is that a record?

Cool. This is good stuff!

Bingo. eBay listing

I like it. Unfortunately, seems everyone knows that 86 - 97 starter clutches are sought after commodities. $175 to $300 on eBay. Need to get lucky and find someone selling a "parts lot" that has one.

I'm also worried about potential warping from welding. I'm trying decide if there is any way of bonding triggers on to a housing that I would trust over time.

I don't have the right crankcase cover off of my 92 at the moment. But this is what it looks like. Quite different trigger pattern. I go to Babbits Honda for parts diagrams

It's actually the 86 that is unique, making the part even rarer. The 87 outer housing shares the same part number with the 1990 VFR, even though the drawing on the parts diagram looks like the 86, not the 90.

86 is 265 87 is 275 I have both sitting on my bench in the shop right now and verified it before reporting 30 posts ago. After a good read of this thread it seems like the OP has already gone thru a bunch of stuff and is just trying to restore what he created years ago, not reinvent the bike.

The spring on the Fox comes off really easy. Back off the pre-load adjuster, slide the lower stop up and remove the split ring. You could do some better pre-cleaning before the shock service and maybe save a few bucks. Suspension techs really don't like grungy shocks and forks when they get them. You could at least ensure a more positive attitude towards your shock. Could also prep and re-paint your spring if you are so inclined.

I think it is a very good idea to add one. You can find them pretty thin if needed. It's undue stress on the threads, and the whole system, without it in my opinion. Even though it can't actually back-out or go anywhere. But I don;t see any problem with the clevis itself as long as it passes inspection for cracks, damage or failing weld. It def looks like a stock Honda clevis.

Looks like somebody extracted the clevis off of a stock shock and adapted it to the Fox. I did something similar on the RC26 adapting a Fox Shock from a CBR.

I might have a whole linkage piece you can have for a very attractive price if interested. Also, perhaps instead of a bolt you might come up with a clevis pin from McMaster or Grainger that is the right size.

The center collar of the stock bushing is thick wall and as I said, doesn't move or spin. It can take the factory torque of the clevis bolt. It appears somebody was "fixing" a problem that likely didn't exist.

That's not the stock bushing. Not sure if you know that.