SEBSPEED

As in cyanoacrilate, aka plastic model glue. Maybe the gel type would work best, to fill any small voids?

Shoot, I think I have some of this out in the garage... :goofy:

Cool, I'll keep an ear on the ground, a nose in the air, and an eye on this thread... :salesman:

Nice job! Looks like they're in a good place to protect the rads and engine covers. Any pics of the slider base where it faces the engine bolt? Just curious. And a suggestion for Radar, if you wish to make more of these as a kit, I would buy extra engine bolts and tap them, then include them and their price in the kit. It makes it more appealing to people that way, as all they'd have to do is spend $$, without having to track down a machine shop and then wait for them to do the job. And one more, maybe offer the "centering plugs" with a deposit, so buyers could return them, and you wouldn't have to make so many? All that said, I might buy a set, if you're making them...

Wow. Just wow, to everything. That's crazy. I'm glad you're ok. Best wishes, Sebastian.

Home Depot sells the stuff as "gutter screens", but they're only four or so inches wide...

Nice dude! :thumbsup:

Any updates on this?

The advantage of putting perforated core in, rather than just leaving all the guts out, is that you will get better exhaust gas flow. Plus it should sound better (less like a clapped-out muffler). Maybe if the perforations were very small. Too large a hole (1/8th inch or more), and I don't think it would do much without the packing as well. The packing serves to absorb the sound waves, but also to guide the zorsted particles out. It seems to me that running the core without the packing would create turbulence, and decrease the velocity of the gases, hurting the power output. Or summat. :joystick:

Wouldn't hurt to try, anyway. This is one of the things I'd like to try with my vtec 'zorst one day too.

I've seen a lot of different exhaust brands, and as a fabricator and (certified aerospace)welder, I have to say, that there are some out there that I would not put on my vfr. If I can make the same or better on my own for less, why pay someone? :rolleyes:

You know, if you'r eleft with an empty round can, you could source a replacement core(round perforated tube) from one of the aftermarket companies, and use that inside your stock can, with some steel wool or fiberglass packing. Shouldn't be too hard since you can weld, and you'll have much less invested in that, than in a "real" staintune, with the stealth look of a factory part! :thumbsup:

I'd be more than happy to do that for you, just as soon as you buy me a dyno. :lurk:

I would recommend using a quality cutting fluid, like Castrol Moly-Dee for example. It doesn't smell too pleasant(lots of sulfur), but it works well. It makes the drill's job easier, and extends the life of the bit. Excellent for use on steel! :thumbsup:

That's easy just leave Wild Turkey outside & I'll never get to the garage :goofy: :lol:

There was another that I remember seeing that had a small muffler attached where the collector exits near the footpeg. There was a guy from Oz that put a Staintune spud in the outlet of the cat, and had no other muffler of any kind. I think Rob has some pics(veefer800canuck). There was another US member who shortened their Yoshimura can, and posted about it. He also had one or more vids.

See!! The vtecs are better!! :lol: Please don't take that seriously, anyone, I have no intentions of going there... ! :deer: Thanks for the review Ken! Once I figure out if my triples are/aren't tweaked, I'll be doing this install! Now go wash your bike! Shame on you for putting her away like that. :P