gropula

Other than dyno tuning there are autotuning options. Rapid bike racing and Evo are able to autotune using the stock narrowband o2 sensors, while an additional wideband module and sensor is available as a separate purchase. I have racing variant and a single additional module. The stock narrowbands can do a good job, but they're slow and not very precise. It takes around 200-400km for a new map to be made, but even later after 1000 or more km there will be changes. The wideband is much, much quicker, basically instant corrections. It's supposed to be more accurate since it's much newer and advanced tech, but I have no means of verifying that myself. From mid to high throttle openings they both do a good job. I'm struggling to get a good tune at low throttle openings. Both types of sensors tend to go overly lean at 5-10% throttle and create dead spots at certain RPMs. It could be due to my bike in particular. It does require some tinkering to setup and monitoring how bike behaves and responds to fueling changes. Power commander 5 and 6 also have wideband autotuning modules available. Don't know much else about it.

I got to synchronizing the starter valves again. Luckily I took pictures of the gauges when I first did the sync. Here are the results. It looks like cyl 4. was loosing quite a bit of vacuum. The MAP sensor was reading lower than expected vacuum and ECU was over fueling. Maybe it being the datum for syncing made the overall situation even worse after others were synced to match. This might be a crude way to test if the valves need adjustment. Cyl 4. was way out on the exhaust valve. 0.25 measured, 0.35 spec. The intake was close to the limit at 0.18 measured, 0.20 spec. This one is the best cylinder to draw conclusions from because it's vacuum was never adjusted, as it cannot be adjusted, it's the datum. Other cylinders have restored a significant amount of vacuum, their clearances were all over the place.

Another touch on the subject of valves. Yesterday I did the valve clearance check on friends bike. These are his valves at 66k km on a 2006 (refresh) 6th gen. He had the bike for the last 20k km, rarely uses VTEC. All VTEC are in spec, but two are closing in on the tolerance so we think they should be adjusted. Thing is, when I ordered the VTEC buckets they took almost 3 months to arrive. Dealer said there weren't any in Europe and they ordered from Japan. Haven't called the dealer yet because it's Sunday to check for these two buckets, but we were thinking about machining the VTEC bucket. What do you guys think? Taking off a few hundredths of a mm from the bottom of the bucket, off the raised part? I don't think machining the top would be a good idea. Are the buckets all the same thickness? Just the raised part in the middle varies the overall thickness right? Is it maybe too hard and brittle to machine?

YouTube video Older style of black widow catless headers and a quad muffler made by a Croatian manufacturer Shacal exhaust system technology. Very few produced, never saw anyone else using these. Crazy looking, but I love it. IMG_0636.mov

I should do the starter valve sync soon because I adjusted the valve clearances. This got me thinking because I have a 6th gen with a 5th gen exhaust. The front pipes don't cross over anymore. Though, from the thread you linked, there should be a difference in fuel that is supplied at idle to each injector. I'll check in rapid bike app what are the injector opening times at idle for each injector at idle and go from there.

I may have bought an abused specimen, but mine wasn't running right since I bought it at 57k km. I was trusting this kind of advice and I wasn't prepared to shell out for the valve service as per advice it would be a waste of money. I didn't yet have the experience or skills to do it myself. So I rode the damn thing for like 20k km and tried to circumvent the problem with a fuel tuner - it masked the problem successfully. The problem was manifesting as low vacuum, thus enrichening the fuel mixture in the 0-40% throttle, where MAP sensor is the load sensor. The autotuner had to take away a lot of fuel to get the right mixture in that part of the fuel map. After 2 years of fiddling with the bike I got enough experience to dig into the valves. In the picture are the valve clearances at around 75k km. All in all, I adjusted 7 regular valves and 5 VTEC valves to adjust clearances so the clearance is bigger than specified or close to specified. Bought 3 VTEC buckets and switched around 2 of them. Vacuum was obviously restored but I didn't measure it yet. The autotuner doesn't take away that much fuel anymore and the old map had to be erased because the bike wasn't getting enough fuel, from that I assume that vacuum is back to normal. I assume that some compression was restored as well because the response is improved. Bike pulls better at lower throttle openings. Also, the engine runs a bit smoother, with less vibrations in the 4-6 RPM range. I used to upshift to 6th often because I felt the vibrations, now I often leave it in 4th or 5th because the vibrations are lower and I don't notice it's time/possible to upshift. Before adjustment: After adjustment:

These don't have the lower heating option of 9V, they're either on or off at 12V. I found that 12V is to hot most of the time. I tried installing them over the grips as instructed but thats ugly and slippery. Only downside to putting them under the grips is that some of the heat escapes to the steel handlebar, but some thin insulation will fix that. Still my right is a bit hotter than left because of that. I think some better insulation would help.

I'm using 3$ (not a typo) grip heaters off aliexpress with two heating modes. They're not actually grips, but heating pads that go under the original grips. They work well, they have two heating modes, 9V for warm and 12 for hot, that's all I need. They don't change the look of the bike at all, which is nice. You get a switch with 0-1-2 but no connectors for the power, just bare wires so you have to figure it out for yourself. Can't expect much for 3$ but hey, they work. I put some thin insulating foam under the left grip heater so the heat doesn't escape to the steel handlebar. Throttle tube is plastic so there's no problem on the right grip. Used electrical tape to secure the heaters and glued the original grips over the heaters. It's not the best solution but it's certainly the cheapest, keeps the original looks and gets the job done.

Through discussion on Facebook I got a hint and found the answer in these forums and it was in everyone's favorite topic - unleashing the factory power! They look to be older style black widow headers. Newer style that comes up on Google merges the rears and fronts first. This older style merges the sides. Dead giveaway is the rear primary pipe made out of three sections. Every bit of info can be found on these forums!

Reviving my old thread. Happy with the headers, they bumped up the power according to the precision butt dyno. Better sound as well. Anyone care to help me identify who manufactured them? They have no stamp from manufacturer. They are stainless steel, 98-99 spec primary diameter, OEM 98-99 gaskets fit, they have o2 bungs. They don't look like motad, lextek, delkevic or black widow. Bought off eBay from Germany, listed as headers from '99 Fi, but they're not OEM obviously. Who else manufactured headers?

I love my alien space blasters! I'd like to have the VFRD headers but the starting cost of 1000$, shipping to EU, import procedure and VAT would bring the cost up to 2000$ probably.

I'm so sad to hear this website will shut down. In 2 years I've owned a veefer I've come to know just about everything about it, mostly through this website. A quick google search and I've found a way to archive all of this knowledge that has been shared through this website and it's downloading as I'm writing this. HTTrack can download all of the webpages from a domain.

Made a bit of progress. Video of stacks Just need to fix this securely and wire up the RPM activated switch. I made a more understable graph from the measurements. The first graph is the force that accelerates the bike at the measured rate. That is force remaining after all friction and resistances are overcome. It resembles the torque graph. The other graph is power. All calculated from gear ratios, calculated wheel diameter and assuming bike+rider weight is 350kg. Don't mind the absolute values, the differences are the point. Only showing the two best options, stacks fully up and fully down. The final moving assembly will take the best of both.

I was just grinding until they fit. The flanges that hold the studs protrude slightly so I ground off more where they interfere, making the gasket somewhat oval. Those 40 mm OD gaskets have 32 mm ID, and about 30 mm ID when crushed. Way to small for aftermarket headers. These ones from CB600F/FJS400 have 34 ID and probably don't crush as much because they're not hollow.

Regarding the gaskets that go between the primaries and the cylinder head - delkevic is out of stock again. I tried finding an alternative. These will fit with some grinding EBAY LINK. They measured around 42.2mm OD so I used an angle grinder to narrow them down. It's possible to do so because they're not hollow like some other gaskets, they have material all the way through. They seal nicely and don't inhibit exhaust flow on my motad(ish) headers.