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gropula

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Everything posted by gropula

  1. I got to synchronizing the starter valves again. Luckily I took pictures of the gauges when I first did the sync. Here are the results. It looks like cyl 4. was loosing quite a bit of vacuum. The MAP sensor was reading lower than expected vacuum and ECU was over fueling. Maybe it being the datum for syncing made the overall situation even worse after others were synced to match. This might be a crude way to test if the valves need adjustment. Cyl 4. was way out on the exhaust valve. 0.25 measured, 0.35 spec. The intake was close to the limit at 0.18 measured, 0.20 spec. This one is the best cylinder to draw conclusions from because it's vacuum was never adjusted, as it cannot be adjusted, it's the datum. Other cylinders have restored a significant amount of vacuum, their clearances were all over the place.
  2. Another touch on the subject of valves. Yesterday I did the valve clearance check on friends bike. These are his valves at 66k km on a 2006 (refresh) 6th gen. He had the bike for the last 20k km, rarely uses VTEC. All VTEC are in spec, but two are closing in on the tolerance so we think they should be adjusted. Thing is, when I ordered the VTEC buckets they took almost 3 months to arrive. Dealer said there weren't any in Europe and they ordered from Japan. Haven't called the dealer yet because it's Sunday to check for these two buckets, but we were thinking about machining the VTEC bucket. What do you guys think? Taking off a few hundredths of a mm from the bottom of the bucket, off the raised part? I don't think machining the top would be a good idea. Are the buckets all the same thickness? Just the raised part in the middle varies the overall thickness right? Is it maybe too hard and brittle to machine?
  3. YouTube video Older style of black widow catless headers and a quad muffler made by a Croatian manufacturer Shacal exhaust system technology. Very few produced, never saw anyone else using these. Crazy looking, but I love it. IMG_0636.mov
  4. I should do the starter valve sync soon because I adjusted the valve clearances. This got me thinking because I have a 6th gen with a 5th gen exhaust. The front pipes don't cross over anymore. Though, from the thread you linked, there should be a difference in fuel that is supplied at idle to each injector. I'll check in rapid bike app what are the injector opening times at idle for each injector at idle and go from there.
  5. I may have bought an abused specimen, but mine wasn't running right since I bought it at 57k km. I was trusting this kind of advice and I wasn't prepared to shell out for the valve service as per advice it would be a waste of money. I didn't yet have the experience or skills to do it myself. So I rode the damn thing for like 20k km and tried to circumvent the problem with a fuel tuner - it masked the problem successfully. The problem was manifesting as low vacuum, thus enrichening the fuel mixture in the 0-40% throttle, where MAP sensor is the load sensor. The autotuner had to take away a lot of fuel to get the right mixture in that part of the fuel map. After 2 years of fiddling with the bike I got enough experience to dig into the valves. In the picture are the valve clearances at around 75k km. All in all, I adjusted 7 regular valves and 5 VTEC valves to adjust clearances so the clearance is bigger than specified or close to specified. Bought 3 VTEC buckets and switched around 2 of them. Vacuum was obviously restored but I didn't measure it yet. The autotuner doesn't take away that much fuel anymore and the old map had to be erased because the bike wasn't getting enough fuel, from that I assume that vacuum is back to normal. I assume that some compression was restored as well because the response is improved. Bike pulls better at lower throttle openings. Also, the engine runs a bit smoother, with less vibrations in the 4-6 RPM range. I used to upshift to 6th often because I felt the vibrations, now I often leave it in 4th or 5th because the vibrations are lower and I don't notice it's time/possible to upshift. Before adjustment: After adjustment:
  6. These don't have the lower heating option of 9V, they're either on or off at 12V. I found that 12V is to hot most of the time. I tried installing them over the grips as instructed but thats ugly and slippery. Only downside to putting them under the grips is that some of the heat escapes to the steel handlebar, but some thin insulation will fix that. Still my right is a bit hotter than left because of that. I think some better insulation would help.
  7. I'm using 3$ (not a typo) grip heaters off aliexpress with two heating modes. They're not actually grips, but heating pads that go under the original grips. They work well, they have two heating modes, 9V for warm and 12 for hot, that's all I need. They don't change the look of the bike at all, which is nice. You get a switch with 0-1-2 but no connectors for the power, just bare wires so you have to figure it out for yourself. Can't expect much for 3$ but hey, they work. I put some thin insulating foam under the left grip heater so the heat doesn't escape to the steel handlebar. Throttle tube is plastic so there's no problem on the right grip. Used electrical tape to secure the heaters and glued the original grips over the heaters. It's not the best solution but it's certainly the cheapest, keeps the original looks and gets the job done.
  8. Through discussion on Facebook I got a hint and found the answer in these forums and it was in everyone's favorite topic - unleashing the factory power! They look to be older style black widow headers. Newer style that comes up on Google merges the rears and fronts first. This older style merges the sides. Dead giveaway is the rear primary pipe made out of three sections. Every bit of info can be found on these forums!
  9. Reviving my old thread. Happy with the headers, they bumped up the power according to the precision butt dyno. Better sound as well. Anyone care to help me identify who manufactured them? They have no stamp from manufacturer. They are stainless steel, 98-99 spec primary diameter, OEM 98-99 gaskets fit, they have o2 bungs. They don't look like motad, lextek, delkevic or black widow. Bought off eBay from Germany, listed as headers from '99 Fi, but they're not OEM obviously. Who else manufactured headers?
  10. I love my alien space blasters! I'd like to have the VFRD headers but the starting cost of 1000$, shipping to EU, import procedure and VAT would bring the cost up to 2000$ probably.
  11. I'm so sad to hear this website will shut down. In 2 years I've owned a veefer I've come to know just about everything about it, mostly through this website. A quick google search and I've found a way to archive all of this knowledge that has been shared through this website and it's downloading as I'm writing this. HTTrack can download all of the webpages from a domain.
  12. Made a bit of progress. Video of stacks Just need to fix this securely and wire up the RPM activated switch. I made a more understable graph from the measurements. The first graph is the force that accelerates the bike at the measured rate. That is force remaining after all friction and resistances are overcome. It resembles the torque graph. The other graph is power. All calculated from gear ratios, calculated wheel diameter and assuming bike+rider weight is 350kg. Don't mind the absolute values, the differences are the point. Only showing the two best options, stacks fully up and fully down. The final moving assembly will take the best of both.
  13. I was just grinding until they fit. The flanges that hold the studs protrude slightly so I ground off more where they interfere, making the gasket somewhat oval. Those 40 mm OD gaskets have 32 mm ID, and about 30 mm ID when crushed. Way to small for aftermarket headers. These ones from CB600F/FJS400 have 34 ID and probably don't crush as much because they're not hollow.
  14. Regarding the gaskets that go between the primaries and the cylinder head - delkevic is out of stock again. I tried finding an alternative. These will fit with some grinding EBAY LINK. They measured around 42.2mm OD so I used an angle grinder to narrow them down. It's possible to do so because they're not hollow like some other gaskets, they have material all the way through. They seal nicely and don't inhibit exhaust flow on my motad(ish) headers.
  15. Got an update on the build. The weather improved and I've been able to test the various positions of the stacks to determine the best performing lengths and corresponding rpm ranges. Unfortunately no dyno time, but a good test was performed on a flat abandoned road. This was the setup: Phone video recording the tachometer at 30 fps Straight, flat road, 2 runs forward and 2 runs backwards with each stack length for good averaging 3rd gear WOT pull from 3000 to 12000 rpm, from about 40 to 150 km/h with my gearing (15/44) Stacks at 4 different heights, supported at various heights by a piece of vacuum hose d=0 - upper stack fully inserted - length equaling long factory stack d=10 - upper stack lifted 10 mm from the base, creating a longer stack with a very small gap in between the upper and lower stack d=20 - upper stack lifted 20 mm from the base, creating a dual stack with a sizable gap in between the upper and lower stack d=30 - upper stack lifted 30 mm from the base, as high as it can go without interfering with the air filter, basically disabling the upper stack and breathing from the short lower stack I've used a video editing software and excel, determining the frame number for each time the needle went over the x1000 rpm notch. Each frame lasts 0.033s at 30fps. For example, the difference in frame number for 5000 and 4000 multiplied 0.033s gives time elapsed to accelerate from 4k to 5k rpm. Averaging and comparing the times gave results. The results for 3-4 rpm are hard to read because of big vibration that occurs when WOT at 3k so I've decided to discard them. Also going WOT at 3k is not something I do. The d=20 stack doesn't excel at any rpm range so they're discarded as an option. d=10 has slight advantage at 5-7k rpm, but not enough to be worth anything. Also, as expected, they totally choke the engine from 9 to 11k rpm, losing 5% over d=0 and even more compared to d=30. Stock long stack length works best for 7-9k rpm range, also expected as that's where maximum torque occurs, 2% better over others. Honda obviously knows what they're doing so that's why I had one configuration in stock long length. d=30 works better in the range of 10-11k rpm where maximum power occurs, 3% better than d=0. Nice to see, that means maximum power has increased with this mod. I've decide that d=0 and d=30 will be the two positions and they will move at 9k rpm. That way I have the maximum torque from 7-9k and maximum power from 10-11k rpm. I ordered an RPM switch from ebay to do the electrical switching at 9k. Interesting to see that the engine totally chokes from 11-12k and that there is very little difference between stacks. It's the cams limiting the performance at extreme rpm, not stacks. Shift at around 11k. All in all I'm very satisfied with results and measurements. Even though some of the differences are small, barely measurable, they are what is to be expected by theory of the stacks so I trust that even 1% differences are accurate, while 2-5% differences are significant. Averaging 4 runs with close results makes results trustworthy.
  16. I changed the sparkplugs a few weeks back, as I didn't know their exact history. Turns out cylinder 2 was running lean, while others were fine. It was time to investigate. Removed airbox, opened the throttle, ignition ON and sometimes there would be a squirt of fuel from the injector. Figured it's defective, as I had them cleaned already but the shop didn't have the equipment to flow/leak test them. Ordered 4 new ones from aliexpress for '06+. Also ordered from ebay a wiring harness for the injectors to adapt to my '02. Happy to find a very cheap solution as '02 injectors are hard to find at a reasonable price unless they're used and in questionable condition.
  17. I've just received the my tuning bike module with LSU 4.9 in the mail. I was wondering what's the best way to use a single O2 sensor with two O2 sensor bungs, because that's what I currently have. I will have another bung welded on where secondaries merge into one, but that's a part of an ongoing exhaust project. Does it make sense to run bike with one map for all cylinders with the wideband sensor on one bung for a while and build a map from those two cylinders and then move it to other bung and then build a map for other two cylinders. Then use those maps on a two maps for four cylinders configuration. How will the original ECU react to one narrowband being out of bungs or disconnected? Should I do the o2 eliminator hack with resistors and disable narrowbands in the rapid bike configuration? Or is it best to have a new bung welded in ASAP for the wideband and use the narrowbands in original bungs?
  18. The movable stacks slide on long bolts straight up and down, so they can't follow the arc alongh which the lever arm moves. By having stacks slide on bolts they are always in the right position, and the lever and pivot point can be positioned by trial and error. The U shaped profile will also have holes bigger than bolts so it can be moved to the right position without having to drill holes at the exactly the right place. Since this is all made by hand I need big tolerances on the moving parts. Also, by having it slide on bolts more parts are held in securely, I can't have stuff falling apart in the airbox and getting sucked into the engine. It could be done so that the lever holds the bracket "in the air" without the support of the long bolts, but then the bracket and the lever should be one part, or solidly connected. That would require much more precision in positioning of the actuator and pivot points, also the length of the lever should be exact.
  19. Hi, all! I'm in the process of building a set of variable length velocity stacks. Inspired by mohawk's yoshi style velocity stacks and variable systems built by MV Agusta and Yamaha I've decided to do something similar on my '02 VTEC. I bought a whole other airbox, with velocity stacks included. 6th gen comes with two long and two short stacks, so I have 4 of both. The long ones are repurposed to be fixed at the bottom, this way the bore diameter is increased and the length of the stack is reduced. The short ones will be kept stock and made to move up and down. When down they will insert into the bore of the bottom ones. The length and bore diameter in lowered position will equal the original long stack. When in upper position the upper stack will move above the lower stack. In picture below is the initial idea. I have much longer bolts now that will enable the upper stacks to move up to fully clear the bore of the lower ones. The bolts have threads only on the bottom. The upper stacks have these hollow cylindrical pieces inserted in bolt holes. This enables the upper stacks to slide up and down on the bolt. I cut off the radius part from the longer stacks and made them flush with the bottom of the airbox. I used dual compound epoxy to glue them. After curing I used a file and sandpaper to match the holes of the bottom of the airbox to throttle body bores. That is the bottom part done. For the movement I decided to repurpose the flapper assembly. I glued the vacuum diaphragm actuator upside down in the middle of the airbox. It clears the fuel rails and connectors beneath with no problems. It has about 12mm of travel, but I need around 25-30mm of travel so that the upper velocity stacks fully clear the bottom ones. Because of that I decided to use a lever system. This way the movement is reversed and the range is extended. I drew a schematic of how it will be done, only one side is drawn for simplicity, but it will be simetrical. The lever system will be mounted on a metal U shaped profile (red), bolted to the bottom of the airbox. A bolt (cyan) will go horizontally through the U profile and the lever arm (green) will rotate around the bolt. The lever has rotational movement, while the actuator and the movable stacks have linear movement (yellow arrows). To solve that problem I will simply drill the holes in the lever arm that are wide (the ellipsoidal shape of the holes in the schematic). There will be a bracket to connect the front movable stacks together (cyan). Same in the back. The bracket will slide on long bolts. I intend to intercept the VTEC signal and use it to activate a relay, which will activate the flapper solenoid. The original signal for the flapper activates at 5500rpm which is too early. I will update the thread with more details when I take more pictures. I'd like to know your thoughts on this mod, if you have any ideas to improve the design feel free to share them. When I finish the build I intend to test the stacks. I can assemble a stockish setup with 4 short original stacks. That will be the baseline. Then I can compare it to the modified setup. I will try to bring it to a dyno. If I can't get it dynoed I have an idea to do 3rd gear pulls from 3000rpm to limiter. Time every 1000rpm segment from video or from Rapid bike logger and compare gains/losses.
  20. These were listed on ebay as 1999 VFR800Fi. They have o2 sensors and are stainless, catless. Then they can only be Motad right? I bought them, so we will find out soon enough. VFRD headers are too expensive for me and VAT and shipping from USA would probably double the price. These were 150€+10€ shipping, EU based so no VAT.
  21. Thanks Mohawk! So my thoughts were right about OEM headers, but I got confused when I saw o2 bungs on catless headers.
  22. Can someone clarify my confusion, I don't know which model years have bigger primaries on the headers, which have o2 bungs, and which are catless. I was under impression that 98-99 have catless headers without o2 bungs and bigger primaries, but now I found that 99 has catless headers with o2 bungs, but do they have bigger primaries?
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