sudolea

Never needed more than 1 single key myself 😎 What would you use a (e.g.) third, fourth key for ?

Well, if the insurance company really needs this second key, AT LEAST make sure you OPEN both panniers BEFORE sending both keys. Because then, you can always re-adapt both lock(s) to another key. This may be attractive if someone else is interested in buying them second hand. And even for you, if you intend to buy another such VFR. This is all in the assumption that you still have the complete inner lock sets for adapting to other keys. If you don't, you can buy (2) new (inner lock) sets of these for about (twice) 23€ (I have the reference numbers to order, if you want, I just bought 2 such sets). I am as good as completely sure that even then, spending 46€ costs less than another ignition key !!! It might even be possible to claim these 2 lock sets from your insurance company ? If they don't pay the lock sets back, you might claim your panniers are completely worthless otherwise, without the original keys. If they would have to chose between paying you back 2 side panniers, or only the inner lock cylinders, I think they will have chosen quite quickly !

Not afraid of drones (measuring your speed from far away, well beyond sight) ? I heard this can happen in the States (= being caught for speeding by means of drones), or isn't this all that probable ?

I don't know if I understand correctly what you mean, but for 23€ per lock, you can buy the needed material to adapt your lock to your ignition key. And if you're a little lucky, your second hand topcase could maybe contain that 23€- set : if you still have the complete set, you can adapt that lock to your ignition key.

If it'd have to be anything else than bronze, I'd take pearl white (for this pearl white bike) !

If it can help anybody : for my (pearl-white) model 2014 VFR800F (color code NH-B53P), I bought a set numbered 08L70-MJMD10. This set includes the 2 side panniers (the right one of them carrying a heat protection shield), and a set of 2 rubbers.

Not that I ever did this (= ride with 2 AND fully loaded with luggage), but this setting seems far below the adjustment I would be tempted to setup. I myself would set it to one white bar remaining visible, as a starter. As an alternative, you could ride your bike close to a wall (bike should be horizontally level), and mark where your headlight is shining when you're alone on your bike. Then, at the same distance from the same wall, set your preload as higher tensioned as you think it should be, go and sit together on the bike, and I'd consider the preload to be adjusted properly if the headlight shines at the same point (height) on that wall ...

Me neither. Honda engineers rule 😎

You may be correct but I would think, on the contrary, that using the tire at its same "cold" pressure would have the effect of increasing the tire pressure on its own, due to the higher outside temperatures ?

Saw this on your channel, indeed. Money is round, let it roll ☺️

I fully understand GreginDenver's concerns, especially with his background. I'm not convinced the VFR's valves should NOT be adjusted in due time, let alone that they'd NEVER have to be adjusted. After all, I trust the Honda engineers and trust that they have built me a motorcycle that's reliable. Then why would I NOT believe them when they determined the maintenance intervals ? Because I better believe people fully qualified to design an engine than some/several users telling me their "success stories" (mmm) NOT adjusting the valves. To all these people NOT maintaining in due time, just this one question : which airplane would you prefer to board, the one known to be 5 times over the scheduled engine maintenance period, or the one known to have been consciously maintained ? Just asking ...

I guess it's mostly the VTEC valves that give the VFR valve adjustment job a reputation making most people reluctant of. On the other hand, I don't think that 24000 km schedule for the VTEC valves adjustment is that strictly necessary, knowing they remain closed most of the time. Not that I would skip the 24000 km interval altogether : I do think the engineers have their reasons to determine the maintenance intervals the way they are...

They might. Guess I must have had bad luck then. Regardless, I myself don't trust BMW's any longer, and they will be lucky if I ever do again or buy one again. And oh ... not only VFR's are reliable : I once upon a time had a Deauville with nothing more than standard maintenance and nearly 160000 kms...

I wouldn't trade in a well running and fully functional bike just to avoid a maintenance cost ! It's not a BMW ! It's a Honda ! Made to last. Reliable. I would have the Service Manual, buy myself the needed equipment (if not already available), the spare parts (there are sites selling the original spare parts online), and try to do the valve adjustment myself. Consider this : if you break something, then who is paying for it ? Afraid to break something ? Well, that broken fairing, YOU payed for it. Just checked the valves on my other bike (a Suzuki) the other day, after 24000 km : all within spec, so no adjustment needed. Why then would I expect worse from a Honda ? It may be sufficient doing the check, not having to adjust any valve, ... and have peace of mind for another 24000 km...

Are there accessories installed (after-market or not) ? Maybe one of them is continuously drawing current, because maybe connected to the battery instead of to the accessories ?