MooseMoose

Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Yeah, seems that's the case. I think I have 4.9, but I'm going to look just because I want to know. It's all moot, the system works well right now and I expect it'll be perfect with the new exhaust either way. The benefit really comes in that I can swap cans, or fit a silencer plug, or do whatever repairs as I fix up the bike and have no need for a new dyno run. Even imperfect but pretty darned close beats the heck out of dropping a couple hundred on dyno runs to make rich and lean maps every time I fix something.

I'll search for it. I got mine a couple of years ago so I'm on the cusp. Now I wonder. Thanks for the info.

I'm doing the same, currently, on a delkevic system. Had a bung welded into the pipe just behind the collector, where the two stock sensors are installed. As an aside, how do I know which sensor I have? I just bought the MTB kit and installed it, but didn't realize they have a newer, better sensor. Not that it matters much, but now I'm interested to know. Whatever, on the new headers I will definitely do something similar. Need an exhaust bung on the midpipe as close to the collector point as possible -- whether wade does that for me or I deal with someone nearby. it is super nice to have. Taking the silencer plug out of my can or putting it back in is mindless. It just works.

Well, you know where his bias lies! Interesting work. I applaud the tenacity it takes to do this many things this well.

If you don't want to gamble on cleaning, ebay and Amazon both have genuine VFR800 labeled injector sets, 4 for $185 or so. Brand new. And the ebay has what it claims are new injectors for $25 each to the US. I bet a similar deal that'll ship to the UK exists. Though I'm dubious that the $25 ones are genuinely OEM. Proper Honda branded ones are still to be had for $35-40 each. Part number is 06164-PCA-000 -- it's the same for all applications including CRV.

I'm pretty sure the fuel rails on all the 6th gens were ALL different than the 5th gens. Those injectors won't be swappable. That said, if you want that last mile per gallon, cleaning and flowing might really help. probably better than adding a higher flowing injector of a different type to the relatively primitive 5th gen injection. I flowed mine (also at RC, I think it cost me $24 each plus shipping) as my plugs definitely showed differences. Two were great, one was ok, one was dripping. Now they are all flowing between 240 and 241 and the throttle response in the midrange was noticeable when they went back in. The new plugs all looked the same last time I read them (5000 miles after the cleaning). I don't know how much better mileage was as I had other problems there. But it's a hell of a lot less of an effort than modifying.

1. if you're only getting 30 maybe something is wrong. Let's talk about that below. 2. I have a Rapidbike and it is great. But I'm 5th gen -- but 6th gen reportedly respond very nicely to the ignition advance the Rapid bike racing provides. Much more so than my 5th gen. I think @CandyRedRC46 is the 6th gen expert here. He's squeezed the most HP out of a VFR you can get, with a RBR and some Two Brothers pipes. He was kind enough to answer questions for me. Also, call Rapidbike US or Email them if you have questions. Yaman is super helpful and more than happy to answer questions. So, about your current fuel mileage, I have questions. First, you have Cozye's map, but did you dyno it or just install the map? I'm assuming just the map. Second, have you run it without the PCIII and if so what kind of mileage were you getting? Third, are you getting any codes when you do a self diagnostic check? I ask this because I was struggling to get 30 and found a MAP sensor error that I just corrected. If you're going into some sort of safe mode from a sensor error it'll run rich (to prevent detonation from over-lean conditions) and the PCIII is nothing but an alteration to the existing map. If the existing map is already way rich, it'll just adjust to be smoother but rich, and you'll get crap mileage. Anyway, I suggest you at least check to make sure you're not throwing codes as a starting point. And, with the Rapidbike racing you can have an optimal map for most power and one that runs a little leaner in the cruise if you want better mileage for touring or something, so mileage shouldn't be too much of a worry.

On mine the back end of that screw to hold the reeds in place wouldn't let the cover plate tighten down all the way. I had to pull the reeds to get the blockoff plate tightened down.