bdouvill

Are you sure the RR will not be in contact with the tail fairing? At least, this sounds more elegant than my own version ;-)

Thanks again @JZH for sharing the thruth 😉 Will keep the reserve switch and keep relying on the odometer to determine when to refill.

Assuming the maintenance is not so bad- all fluids flushed, tires and chain in good condition then +1 on suspension for sure. At least refresh fork oil and seals. Adding new straight rate springs and is super easy. Updating the shim stack is not super difficult either - see my restoration thread. I did all of that. I used 0.85 kg/mm because I had them with me and when I can, I'll go for 0.90 that should be more suited for the weight of the bike - I'm around 80kg in full gear, but Vivian - my VFR - is in the 240-250kg (damn she's heavy). Here, we are talking about 200€ in material and again, this is not rocket science. If you do that, then replace the rear shock or get it rebuild. When I can, I go for a Shock Factory one, this is very good quality and around 400€ so I guess there is nothing cheaper that is new and that quality. Next, update the brakes. I completely rebuilt the front system but I kept the original brake pads. Not enough braking power for spirited riding. Still haven't chosen if I go for 4 pots VTR calipers or at least replace the pads with softer ones (CL A3+ or Brembo SA). Forget about all the shiny and/or noisy bit, that's for kids 😉

I did not realize that was replacing the reserve manual switch. Having to switch to reserve while driving always happens at the worst time, so I try to stay away from that as much as I can. I try to refill when I reach 150 km on the odometer because so far, I have only rode it around town or near town so no exceptional gas mileage.

Hello fellow VFRists, What the he... is that fuel warning light on the dash? Is that specific to US models? I don't think mine has one... @damionj keep up the good work, this bike is worth it. I enjoy mine anytime I ride it even if it deserves some upgrades I cannot afford right now 😉

That's impressive. I look forward to read any progress 😉 I would be interested to hear a little bit the more the details about the Coil over plugs. I read several info on this forum and I thought the output was it did not work on 3rd and 4th gen for obscure reasons. I understood it works fine when idling then start making some weird thing (so unreliable) when hot. @monstar could you please elaborate a little bit more? Thanks a lot in advance.

Hi, Performed my first oil change after 1800 km and 18 months. Usually, I do an oil change at least once a year or at 5 to 6000 km max. At the same time, I mounted the fairing on the left side. I relocated the coil holders without issue (I jacked the engine just in case). I also rebuilt the broken tab on the lower left fairing with Plastifix (damn that works well) but I forgot to take a picture. Now I have a mixed condition fairing parts with top heavily damaged, bottom damaged but ok and side panel in excellent condition... I have a bad condition right side panel (with missing air duct) but no lower part. I struggle to find it on Ebay (in Europe). But I'll find it (or I'll try to order a replica from LineaMoto in Italy). I also have a (broken) red V fairing but I need to mount the right side before repairing (and mounting) it. Now I see that the combination of color is not original by not bad (I mean the silver rear is matching the silver bottom of the front fairing). Cheers.

Thanks for the picture @JZH Sure when you realize it, seems obvious I used the wrong holes. Just remember when you put it on, you're in the middle of mounting the engine in the frame which I did twice already and is not fun at all... I clearly remember now you have to put one specific bolt first (front right side) and I guess the frame twists itself for the rest to go. Otherwise, this crazy b... never goes in... There's something like 2-3mm between the hole in the frame and the engine mounting point. I hope I can remove the holders one by one and put them back without issue. Will probably put a jack under the engine to support part of its weight. I ordered some of the missing bolts from CMS. I know that's crazy expensive (look at the price of the fasteners for the side panels). So far, I only have experience with Japanese bikes (all 3 of mine come from Japan, only missing a Yamaha and will have one of each 4 brands). What I can say is that if you buy a bike in spare parts, will cost you probably around 100k€... This is insane 🤥

@Gebruiker thanks for the notice. I knew that I had missing bolts and/or incorrect ones. I originally took some pictures of the bike to count how many I need to order from Honda. Then I noticed the wrong placement of the coil holders.

Additional photos of the holders. The marks tell me my assumption is correct and I mounted them incorrectly. Can anyone confirm?

Hi guys, I hope you are all fine during those troubled days. Some update and also some questions. I noticed a small oil leak on top of the clutch cover. Seems like there's a cut-in the top crankcase so the pulse generator can get out of the case. It's leaking there. The plastic housing that fits in this cut is not available on its own, you can only get the whole pulse generator... So I will order a new gasket for the clutch cover and will clean and use some crankcase sealant. I will change oil and filter at the same time. Then I have some fairing questions for you guys. I found some decent parts for the left part of the bike. There are a few broken tab but I feel confident Plastifix will handle it. I went to look at the bike to evaluate which bolts and screws I might be missing and here is what I found: Don't ask me why but it feels like the coil holder seems like it's not in the right place. I am writing this and I feel like the answer is in front of me. The holder bolt should go through the left hole that we can clearly see on the last picture, is that correct? I hope this is an easy fix since this bolt is holding the engine and I remember well putting the engine in the frame is not an easy task. I am pretty sure I have the same problem on the other side of the bike 😞 Thanks in advance for your answers. Stay safe.

On mine, the "-" was grounded to the lower triple clamp where I think the horn is grounded too. Not sure this ideal but so far it works great and never generated any hiccups. In the past, I grounded a LED turn signal relay to the frame of my Bandit 400 (which is steel and not aluminium) and this caused the bike to stop working when I used the turn signals... Back to normal when I used the battery ground terminal instead of the frame. I learned the ground is connected to the engine case and not the frame) even if they are connected to each other.