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BlueTraveler

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BlueTraveler last won the day on May 21 2020

BlueTraveler had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F, 2017 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Suzuki DR650SE

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  1. Sdouble, I think you're wrong about that. It's the first bike I've owned in years where people roll down their windows at stop lights and tell me how great it looks. People even pull up along side of me on the freeway and give me the thumbs up!
  2. Power coating happened to them. Surprisingly cheap and very durable so far. I didn't care for the brown (Ok, bronze) wheels.
  3. I was finally able to capture the Pearl White beauty of my 2014...in one of the most beautiful areas in the Country, Sedona Arizona.
  4. Of course it's a poor design. All Honda had to do was mount the instruments a few degrees more vertically. Climbing a 3 or 4 degree grade stops the glare until the road levels out again. I own a late model BMW RT which allows the rider to change the angle of the instrument panel. When I bought that bike, I went with the most vertical postition and haven't touched them since. Also, no melted gauges on the beemer, but I did have that problem with a Suzuki SV.
  5. This is a continuation of an archived topic: It’s hard to believe that more 8th gen owners aren’t complaining about instrument glare. With about 300 sunny days per year in southern AZ, I experience it almost every time I ride my bike…sometimes for many miles. The glare is much worse than shown here. It’s blinding sometimes. To address the issue, I’ve installed a dark face shield on my helmet and added a strip of dark window tinting along the bottom. It cuts the glare by about 75% yet still lets me read my gauges. I made a copy of my customized film strip to make the job easier if/when I replace the face shield. This is a workable solution for me, but I'm not responsible if it doesn't work for you. And, I'm not liable for any injury or expense you might incur by trying this. My lawyer told me to add this 😉
  6. I paid $785 including shipping. I asked for the VFRDiscussion discount. The sales guy (Dan) didn't know anything about that, but he gave me a 10% off-season discount instead (this all started in early Feb).
  7. I got my new suspension dialed in perfectly (or perfect for me, anyway). Hey there guys and gals! I simply could not stand the stock suspension on the “new” 2014 Standard that I bought last October. The front was so stiff, with so much stiction, that I asked the dealer to double check it before I took delivery. And, the rear shock would launch me off the seat over every sharp-edge (high speed) bump I hit, and it barely moved over anything but the largest low-speed bumps. I put a couple thousand miles on the bike, hoping that both ends would loosen up. They didn’t. The consensus on the VFR forums was that the Deluxe forks worked well, so I upgraded my non-adjustable Standard forks to the somewhat-adjustable Deluxe forks. I also switched to 7.5 wt. oil, and installed low-stiction, SKF green fork seals. As it turned out, I didn’t need to replace the seals. When I had the forks off the bike, with the springs out, there was no stiction. The problem was probably due to improper setup out of the crate. You know how you’re supposed to leave the left axle pinch bolt loose and pump the front end to let the sliders find their ideal spread? That clearly wasn’t done. Anyway, the lighter oil along with the proper fork alignment has the front end working beautifully. The consensus on the stock shock was that it was too harsh. There is very little info on the forums about upgrading it though. Here’s how I decided to tackle it: I ordered a Penske 8975 “double-clicker” from Traxxion Dynamics. It arrived with a 1,000 lb. Hyperpro spring that turned out to be too stiff for my sport touring riding style. I had to back off the preload to just about zero to get 30 mm of rider sag, and no matter how far I backed off the compression damping, the suspension only moved a couple of inches…no matter what I rode over (curbs, speed bumps, 90 mph dips). Both Traxxion and Penske were great to work with and they sent out a 900 lb. spring without making me return the 1,000 lb. spring first. That did the trick. I’ve got both ends working together, and working well. It’s the perfect compromise between touring compliance and sporty control. https://www.penskeshocks.com/product/8975-in-line-double-adjustable/ The Penske shock is almost exactly the same length as the stock shock. Unfortunately, the compression adjustment is at the top, and is only accessible by drilling a small hole in the battery box. This means removing the battery every time you want to adjust the compression damping...but you should only have to do it a few times. The spring pre-load and rebound damping adjustments are easily accessible. If you must have easy access to the compression damping adjustment screw, you'll have to go with a remote reservoir shock. I couldn't find a good place to mount a reservoir, so I went with an in-line shock (plus, I’m definitely not a road racer). Don't forget to support the swingarm before removing the linkage bolts. Also, the shock opening is tight, so I used an old tube sock to keep from scratching the spring.
  8. Had the wheels powder coated to match 8th gen red. They came out great...smooth and shiny. Surprisingly inexpensive. The brown wheels just weren't cutting it!
  9. BlueTraveler

    My 7th and 8th gen Veefers

    My 7th and 8th gen Veefers. I traded in my ‘13 1200 on a BMW RT last April. I love the Beemer, but I I missed the 1200 so much that I tried to buy it back…twice. The dealer refused to deal, so I picked up a new 2014 800 in October (from a different dealer). Phenomenal bikes!
  10. SW-MOTECH Bags-Connection QUICK-LOCK EVO City Non-Electric Tank Bag SW-MOTECH Bags-Connection Slipstream Tail Bag Both bags fit like they were made for the bike! I used bulk elastic shockcord to fasten the tail bag to the seat (available from REI in the US).
  11. Thanks Slammer! I just created a gallery and uploaded a few pics.
  12. SW-MOTECH Bags-Connection QUICK-LOCK EVO City Non-Electric Tank Bag SW-MOTECH Bags-Connection Slipstream Tail Bag Both bags fit like they were made for the bike! I used bulk elastic shockcord to fasten the tail bag to the seat (available from REI in the US). Here's a recent picture of them in the wild...
  13. I lifted both wheels off the ground using my new Abba Superbike Stand (and the optional front wheel lift). $275 including shipping from England. Arrived in 6 business days. I bought it because I had a very close call with my Pit bull rear-wheel paddock stand. My bike was on the rear pit bull stand only. While I was reinstalling the radiator guard (lying on my garage floor), I turned the front wheel to get a better look at one of the screws…AND THE BIKE STARTED TO TIP OVER! I’ve never been able to bench press more than 180lbs, so I would have been in serious trouble if I hadn’t started pushing back before it went past the point of no return. I’ll still use my rear pit bull stand, but I’ll use the front stand at the same time. The big advantage of the Abba stand is that it unloads the rear shock and allows the fork to move freely as well…great for working on the shock or forks.
  14. Happy Holidays from Mike in Arizona!!
  15. PCV #16-020, Z-Bomb #O350 I installed a PCV and Z-Bomb on my 2013 VFR1200F (manual) in May 2015. The bike had about 4,200 miles on it. The transformation was amazing, but I recently removed both (at 22,500 miles) after getting a Guhl re-flash. Three months and about 6,000 miles after I installed the PCV, I started getting Oxygen sensor errors, but only if I did not start the bike within a few seconds of turning the key to “on”. I bought a Honda SCS SERVICE CONNECTOR http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/honda/H-070PZ-ZY30100.html to confirm the error code and to clear it. The problem continued, and I lived with it for another 6K or 8K miles. I then removed, inspected and reinstalled the “O2 Optimizers” thinking that they might be broken or loose. They weren’t. The radiator has to be partially removed to access the O2 connectors, so it’s not a fun job. I added some dielectric grease to the connectors, plugged them back in and buttoned everything back up. The problem didn’t go away. But, I never got the error unless I waited more than 3 or 4 seconds after turning the key to start the bike. To clear it, I’d just restart the bike without the delay. I didn’t want to keep battling the problem, so I decided to remove the PCV and Z-Bomb and have the ECU re-flashed. After removing the PCV, I called Dynojet support. I’d already tried most of their suggestions but not all of them. My guess (and it’s only a guess) is that one of the O2 Optimizer plugs is bad. Replacements are $20 each. The bike ran fantastically well for the entire time that both devices were installed (over 18,000 miles). I’d like to sell the pair (PCV and Z-Bomb) for $175 including shipping. Both parts are complete and in excellent condition…but they are being sold “AS IS”. I’ll only ship to the US and Canada. Payment via PayPal. No refunds. PM me if you have questions. Thanks!
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