Baileyrock

Step away from the Tiki bar my friend! :blink: :goofy:

Boy I forgot about this thread and how good it was, thanks for reviving it guys! :fing02: Funny I pinned this thread just a few months before breaking both my legs in a track crash! :blush: This crash actually had little effect on my confidence or ability to ride again, it was only wondering if I ever would again and then concerns about re-injuring my legs once I did start to ride again. :huh: I've been down several times at the track all lowsides and up in the mph's, but always walked away. The highside was very different as is street riding. Last weekends Deer and cartwheeling bike incident shook me a little more for some reason, I've run a rapid Pace for over 100,000 miles and have never given too much thought to deer before. Now I'm imagining them behind every bush. :blink: Haven't ridden since, but may head out tomorrow and will just have to see where my mind is. BR

I strongly suggest you buy the highest quailty 520 sprocket & chain kit as possible because the weight of the VFR will wear these parts out at a much more rapid pace. I bought a 520 DID/sprocket kit for my Vtec Track Pig from Spocket Center(excellent company) as track miles build at a fraction of the rate as street miles. I went 1dn/2-up. :cool: BR

Vtec Valve check!!! :laughing6-hehe:

Awesome guys, Thanks!!! :fing02: BR

Picture Parker Please! :fing02:

Agreed!!! I Edit every one I see when reading forms as it wastes everyone's time and space! :dry: Please just reply to a post if you can't figure out how to quote just one line, pic or paragraph. Thanks :beer:

I'm not familiar with WP, but Ohlins says that their shock adjustments can cover the entire range of possible springs you can install. IMO as long as your Not Maxed out on either side of adjustments and have the desired compliance than revalving isn't necessary. No if you were racing the bike you would rather have the valving in the middle of it's range for said shock spring, but most street riders set and forget. :blush:

I would say either a .90 or .95kg depending on the majority of how you ride the bike! :biggrin:

Of Course! At every Valve Check! :laughing6-hehe: Good thing i use Mobil 1. :fing02:

It helps that you have the motion down pat. :goofy: Did you take the cartridge apart and pump the oil out of it? (master stroker icon) I'm not usually that ruff! :491: No, just pumped some cleaner thru them. Maybe next time! :blush:

:biggrin: I knew I wasn't the only lazy SOB out there! :goofy:

Yeah, I usually prefer a warm engine oil change myself. I guess gloves could be used? :blush:

Small hands and a cool bike! :fing02:

:fing02: Sounds good! :biggrin:

I'm 6', 190 lbs and wear Lager size gloves, but my hands are lean! :biggrin: Get your wife to help! :fing02:

Here is my simple seal driver! I think it's just a piece of 2"(OD) exhaust pipe, it works like a charm as I've used it for years w/o issue! :biggrin:

I don't suggest doing it Hot, slightly warm is OK. :blush:

I guess one to many accidental wheelies had done it's toll on my fork seals as the right one failed after some 40k miles so it was time to replace them. I ordered a set of aftermarket seals and had a left over bottle of Ohlins fork oil so I put the Viffer up on the lift and got started. I was thinking about modifying my "30 Min fork oil change" thread to do the seals, but the forks were so dirty on the outside I decided to just pop them off! Once on the lift I removed both bars and just hung them over the sides of the fairings. I removed the rear wheel to make jacking up the front end easier. I removed the calipers & front fender. Now I pulled the front wheel, loosened the upper and lower triple clamps and 20 minutes after starting the forks were off the bike! I used my Impact wrench to remove the bottom bolt while fully loaded Then pulled the caps and removed the entire cartridge assembly I pried off the dust seals and removed the seal clip Now I just used the fork as a slide hammer and beat the seals out by sliding the upper tube against them. Once they are separated the cleaning and inspection can begin. All clean, now reassembly. Pretty much just reverse the operation with the exception of using some type of driver to install the new seals, I use a piece of heavy wall tubing. Seals in and I temporally reinstall the spring & cap assembly so that I can tighten the bottom bolt. Then remove the cap and spring, Collapse the fork and add oil. This is where you measure the air gap, I set them at 100mm. I reinstalled the spring, spaced and cap then slid the tubes back into the triples and set height! I'm running 49mm(stock 41mm) Forks reinstalled Now just install wheel, calipers, bars, torque and adjust everything. Time to ride! I left two days later for a 3 day 1200 mile twisty trip to the Fall Meet! :fing02: BR

I have been doing oil changes on my vtec by simply removing the lower mounting bolts on the left lower fairing and sliding my hand in there to remove the oil filter, but while I was looking around I came to the conclusion that it looked like an oil change could be done w/o removing anything except the drain plug and oil filter. Here is what I did. The tools needed were a filter wrench(socket type) and several length extensions, 3/8" ratchet and drain plug socket & drain pan. After draining the oil, I fished the filter socket in place through the opening in the front V-fairing. Once on the filter I tapped it on with the extension and placed the extension in the filter wrench. I simply unscrewed the filter, reached in(pulling/bending PVC cowl as needed) and pulled the filter out the front. now I just reversed the operation and installed a new filter used brake parts cleaner to spray off headers, added oil and I was done! :fing02: BR's method 355 :biggrin:

Ranger, this guy is the one you want to call. I just ordered some parts from Keith yesterday, and he beat all the best prices I found online by a large margin! Thanks Seb, I just updated the first page to reflect Keith at Mason Honda! :fing02:

Nice write up and info Larry! :fing02: