HighSideNZ

I've just heard from Yaman and he feel that the issue is to do with reversion in the exhaust and where the wideband O2 sensor is positioned. I've sent him off all the info he requested and a photo of where the O2 is located. We'll see what come out of this but what he is saying makes sense. The O2 sensor is possibly seeing gas that has already past it and is mixing with the freshly exhausted charge and affecting the reading.

Guys I've been experimenting with my RB Racing and My Tuning Bike module and trying to get my mapping right. Before going to the RB Racing unit I was running a RB3 and had created a good map by using a wideband O2 sensor and a Zeitronix Data logger. This map has served me well over the last 12 months or so and I had removed all the surging/stutters etc. and had the VTec transition pretty smooth. When I got the RB Racing I took the standard factory map and compared it in Excel to the map I'd created for my RB3. There were some pretty large variances in places so I copied the data from the RB3 map to the RB Racing, cell by cell. interpolating the areas where the rpm ranges didn't correspond between the maps. I then turned off the Auto Adaption and My Tuning Bike and went for a ride. Just to make sure all was as I'd expect. Well, there was quite a difference in smoothness just with the RB Racing module alone. The bike performed just like before, with the RB3, but only smoother. Gear shifting was smoother as well and I can only put that down to the situation where the quickshifter is cutting in much lower in the rev range so even with a clutch upshift, the QS cutout is operation. Another good positive side effect. Back to the mapping. So I turned on the MTB and after emailing Yaman, he advised that I should ride like normal and have a look at the correction map. Pay particular attention to low rpm/low tps cells and if they have large correction this may be an effect from the aftermarket exhaust and the MTB is over compensating. Well I went for about a 160km ride and stopped a couple of time and took a look at the correction map. What I feel I have found is that due to our bikes not having a Gear Position Sensor, you need to make fairly large compromises when you set up your maps. From just running the MTB, my hand built map that did not surge, now surges again in the 3000/4000 rpm range. I feel that this is due to the situation where the mapping needs to be different if you are in say 2nd gear at these rpm, compared to say cruising in 6th gear around the same rpm range. I've email Yaman with my finding and have asked a couple of questions re the MTB and Auto Adaptivity functions. I've said to him that I may need to block all cells in the adaptivity map from being altered, except for the specific area I want to work on. Get this area sorted out, apply the alterations to the map, and then move to a different area of the map and do the same. Apart from this small issue, I think the RB Racing unit is going to be great. Bad luck our bike don't have a Gear Position Sensor. If they did we could map by gear and get around these types of issues. I'll keep everyone posted on progress. Phil

Not sure as to the cost difference as I bought my Cordona from the Australian distributor. He is also the RapidBike distributor for down this way. The Cordona GP unit cost me $309 AUD 12 months ago Just checking on there web site they are listing the Cordona now at $339 AUD and RapidBike US has the RB GP at $325 USD At current exchange rates you would be better off going to RB US.

Ah, sorry. The 6th Gen is the same as the 5th. I've got a set of Sato rear sets so can use a rod. I just always found that I could not get the lever to my liking with just the spline as the adjustment. No, still no cams so I'm doing the first work on the 6th Gen engine at present. They reground the profiles and then noticed that there was a mark on one of the journals, so back they went to have the journal reworked. I find out tomorrow as to whether they are shipping. It's been soooo long I've forgotten where I was up to.

Mohawk As far as I can tell you can just plug the Cordona GP shifter directly in to the RB harness. It looks very much like RB buy and rebadge the Cordona unit as the RB Quickshifter. The instruction sheets from Cordona and the one from RB are identical. I'll know a little later today as I'm getting mine running at present with my existing Cordona. Phil

With the RB RPM steps you can make them what you basically want. When the original map is configured in the Wizard, the starting RPM and ending RPM are entered and the number of steps that you want in between. It calculates the steps from there. When I converted from a PC5 to my RB3 I took the table out of the PC5 and in Excel married/interpolated the values on to corresponding cells for the RB3 It was a bit of work and I did find that once I put my wideband and data logger on the values needed for the RB3 were quite different. I'd say it is down to what each manufacturer deems is a zero base. I've bought the MyTuningBike module for mine so I'll run the map supplied and let it self tune via the wideband, then once I'm happy remove the wideband and run off the 2 narrows. Phil

Hey CandyRedRC46 Keep us informed as to how it all goes. Interested to see how it all fits together compared to the RB2/3 etc. Cheers Phil

Mohawk, to make mine work, this is what I bought. 1 x F27ADGEAR Adapter quickshift sensor for RB Evo Racing modules - 1 x Cordona SG GP Quickshifter I got both of these from the Australian distributor of Cordona and RapidBike. A company called "QuickLapPerformance" The F27ADGEAR adapter is a RapidBike part. Cheers Phil

I'm using a Cordona GP quickshifter with my RB3 and it will work with the RB Racing. To me it looks like Rapid Bike rebrand the Cordona GP units as the wiring and controller look identical between the 2 products, apart for the stickers. Also, the documentation is identical. It looks like my Cordona will just plug straight in.

I'd just like to thank CandyRedRC46 and Yaman for getting this off the ground. Praise to both of you and to all those who committed to the initial purchase. it is great when a good plan comes together. Cheers Phil

If you have the USB cable for managing your RB2 it works with the latest software. I have a RB3 and am running the latest Master software without issue.

The RB3 can be raised to a maximum of 500 RPM over standard and this is via a slider so it is pretty much stepless. It will be the same as the Racing/Evo I'd expect.

The screenshot below is from the 5thGen manual and shows the difference in gross lift between the Cal and Non-Cal cams. Hope this helps Phil

Hi RapidBikeUSA I've got an order in for the harness and am looking at buying the Racing module and the My Tuning Bike as well. Currently I'm running an RB3 unit and have a Cordona GP quick swifter hooked up to it. Is there anything special I need to allow me to use the Cordona unit on the Racing module? Also, as I've spent quite a bit of time making my own map, via data logger and wideband O2, can I import my map from the RB3 in to the Racing? Cheers Phil

You can get the software from Dimsport to support the RB1, 2 and 3 off their web site. It is called "Rapid Bike Master Free" You can register on the Dimsport web site and download the software once approved. This software supports ALL models of the older units (RB1, 2 & 3) as well as Evo and Racing.

I've got the software that was supplied from RB USA when I bought my RB2 but it is a fairly large set of files. PM me and I'll see if I can sort out an download site for you. Cheers Phil

It's a 2010 model with the R1 front end. We were lucky enough in NZ to still have them available new up until last year. There are some dealers still with Gen 6 new stock on there floors. R1 front end make a huge difference. Phil

Thought I'd add my R1 conversion to the mix. Details are here: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/77541-another-r1-front-end-conversion/ As I outlined in the post specifically about the conversion, I'm in complete agreement with the major change to the bikes handling. It has built greater confidence and as someone else on this post has stated, with greater confidence comes better safety margins. Must add that I've got an Ohlins on the rear as well. I would do it again in a flash. Well worth it. Here's a pic of the finished product. Cheers Phil

I think that shock only has rebound external adjustment. Best to check on the Ohlins web site against the actual part number. EG: HO406 For compression adjustment with Ohlins you normally need the external resevoir. Phil

With the wiring that is needed to be completed for the Screaming Banshee! I've just fitted one, and put it in the exact same place as shown in the video, but there is no need to fit the 2 blue wires for the horn directly to the existing horn itself. When you have the left fairing off, the cable that comes from the left handlebar switch block has 2 plugs on the end of it. A clear coloured one, which has the dark blue cable for high beam, and a red plug and this has 2 wires in it that are the horn wires. Tap in to these directly for your connection to the horn and you are all good to go. The only wire I had to install at any distance from the Banshee controller was the red wire going to the battery + Makes for a very neat install. Also, when tapping in to the wires from the switch block make sure that you tap into the wire on the loom side of the plug and socket not the switch block side. This way, if you have to replace the switch block, you do not need to re-do the tapping. (Very unlikely that you will need to replace the loom, but a damaged switch block after an accident is more likely) Cheers Phil