Mohawk

I run longer duration cams in mine, good for 6hp up top. Peak torque is now at 10Krpm compared with 8250rpm stock. As HP is a Torque@rpm calculation then moving the location of peak torque makes a difference, as does lengthening the torque curve plateau. Stock plateau is 6500-8500rpm, mine is 7000-10000rpm, with lower gearing it pulls hard. 😁

The conrod oil hole is blocked because the rod bearing has spun, it strips material that lodges in the hole. It is not the cause, its the result of. If the 6th gen MMC is the same as the 5th gen, then they are NOT coated it is a prefabricated MMC cylinder liner with a castleated outer profile to lock it into the cast alloy of the block when its poured. It is 2mm thick in the valleys & 2.5mm on the peaks. HighsideNZ bored his 5th gen MMC to 74mm to take 929 pistons & has been running fine for years. Honda do specify .25 + .5mm over bore pistons. Most Hondas use the same diameter wrist pin. 929/954 pistons are forged. Complete piston weights;- VFR800 CBR929 CBR954 CBR954 wrist pin is 10grams lighter than 929 one.

You can try Predator not sure if they do that model but worth a look. I had a set of theirs on my VF500 years ago. Checked they do https://predatormotorsport.co.uk/search.php?mode=search&page=1

Depends which model you have but normally the fans on all would be on at 105c. If you got to 115c with no fan I'd advise you check its function.

That is the fuel over fill drain from the lip of the filler cap. So if you over fill fuel by accident it gets dumped on the floor through that hose. Also drains water from the lip area when the fuel cap is closed. It doesn't see any pressure, so does not need a clamp.

Well the options for hot go all the way to 20w50 & if you live in a generally hot all the time location, you can use straight 30/40/50 weight oil. Multigrade exists purely to please lazy motorists that live in temperate climates that range from -10c in winter to max 30c in summer. By lazy I mean they don't want to change oils based on the seasons. There are far more modern engines being trashed now due to emissions & economy driven thin oils & very lean running than there ever were before. If manufacturers were worried about longevity at least in cars they would fit a cold start electric oil pump, so the engine is fully primed with oil before turning over & fit turbo oil supplies with reservoirs that gravity flow after engine shutdown to ensure the exhaust side bearing get cooled, but they don't because they don't give a sh!t after the warranty ends! If it survives 2 or 3 years until the warranty is done they are happy. After that if it breaks you will buy a new one, which is more profitable than having ones that last for 100 years due to excellent design & specification. To the OP try thicker oil & let us know how it went 👍

Which VFR have you got & which year ? I'm 100Kg with gear so you are way over the expected solo rider weight. IIRC they have a circa 189Kg max loading. Solo expected max rider weight is 90Kg, so the shock & fork springs may be too light for you, but that also depends on how you like to ride. If you ride hard, then as per Bmart's advice above, get the forks & shock setup for your weight, that may need new springs & a replacement rear shock, as the stock ones are not very adjustable. You can change to spring to get the sag right, but the damping will still be soft. If you just cruise then it could all be good just by adding preload front & rear. Have fun

Ha ha, it definitely matters based on your ambient temperatures wherever you live. The "Northern" & Southern hemisphere's both cover 40-50c temps near the equator all the way to minus a lot nearer the poles, so yes it does matter. As the poster said when temps were below mid 30's-C their gear changes were fine, now its mid 40's-C its not so happy. Because the engine don't care but the gearbox does not like piss for oil ! YVMV ☹️

Sorry Larry that's not what it says. The race to super light multigrades is purely for fuel economy & emissions. Plus all those lines have * numbers which means there is a reference to refer to. Please show page 130 as per your image ! Bikes are a weird thing for oil because not many other vehicles share engine lube with a gearbox.

As you can see a 30 weight oil is only good up to approximately 33C ambient. Engine coolant temperature has no bearing (sic) on the viscosity of oil in the gearbox. Remember if you had a separate gear box you would use a different oil & never the engine lube oil as gears destroy multigrade polymers & being of a semi plastic elastic nature they get stretchier when hotter.

So here is page 76 from the 5th Gen 98-01 VFR800Fi owners manual. YVMV (Your Viscosity May Vary) 😂

So remember what the multigrade numbers mean. The first is the cold flow equivalent straight oil weight, like 10w, where the "W" stands for Winter. The second number is the summer or hot temperature equivalent straight oil weight, like 30 or 40 or 50. Almost all bike manuals state a multigrade oil based on your ambient temperatures. The Normal mid European spec is usually 10w30 or 10w40. That will be for ambient temps between -10C to +30C. Check your owners manual for the recommended oil for higher or lower temps. Temps in the 30-40c plus range would normally be 15w50 or 20w50.

It's much simpler if you run the line from the M/C forward & down at 45degrees, then across the swingarm & through the square hole in the inside of the left pivot, then back to the calliper through the drain hole in John's pics. There were some pics in an old thread of mine.

Try Titan Classics in UK they do a Ti version I believe. Happy to acquire & ship to US if they don't offer international shipping. Alternately get a second hand one from a spare hub/axle. Also check which other Honda used the same part, possibly RC30, RC24 or VFR400 or dome of the 250's like MC28. Not sure if RC36 is same size as VFR800 etc.

If the bike runs fine everywhere except the vtec transition point, I'd be looking there. But if it only went wonk after the last refuel then switch out the fuel & see if it gets better. If mot then look further.

The clutch switch has a plastic actuator rod. When I swapped out my levers I had an odd would not start sometimes. Turned out the end of the actuator rod was worn & the new levers were approx 1mm sorter where it should touch the actuator rod. Thus sometimes lever would not contact the switch hard enough to activate it. A bit of alloy glued on the face of the lever made it longer & restored the function. On the Vtec 6th gen the Flapper works differently to the 5th gen. It's open at some rpm's & closed at others, controlled by multiple sensor inputs to ECU which commands solenoid valve on the TB end of the vacuum hose to the flapper actuator. Hence you don't see an electronic connection at the flapper.

Sounds like a Vtec transition or a TPS sensor issue. If you have checked the throttle cables & they are free moving & correctly adjusted = zero free play when bars are on the lock stop left/right which ever is the tighter side. Then some of the Vtec guys can chime in, as the transition point was changed at various points in the model run. But IIRC this was the biggest complaint about the first Vtec model from 2002-2005 or 6.

No don't do it, its my fave 😂 I'll let you work it out based on the plate above 😁

Best feel is 32-36:1 ratio between M/C piston area & calliper piston area IMO. I use CBR929/954 or CBR600F4 callipers with CBR600F4 M/C, its the best Axial brake setup.

40 years in the UK to gain classic status ☹️ And technically 41 years for most as they have to have been 1st registered before 1st April of 40 years ago, which rules out 2/3rds of the years registration ☹️

Check out some yams or sukis they often have separate m/c & res.

200f= 93c which is warm. Mine run around 80C all the time when not stopped in traffic. I have a lower set temp switch which comes on at 95c off at 80c. The stock fan on left rad sucks air & blows it towards the right side so right rad always runs hotter when the fan is on. But you should NOT be able to touch either rad. Check you have a full coolant system when cold at the tad cap.

Galvanise it. Powder coat is worse than paint in wear areas IMO & unless well prepared will always allow moisture beneath it. Not a big fan of powder coating. Like most things nowadays its quick & relatively cheap, so more popular than paint. But quality paint with the correct primer will always adhere & last longer.

Max 15 volts to charge a 12v system. Anything higher means something is broken.

The Honda stuff was green in 3 Hondas from that time frame I drained factory coolant from. The colour does not mean anything nowadays, as various manufacturers & after market companies use all sorts of colours. Get the right type as per manual specs & mix in a ratio based on your local & expected trip temps. I use 25% antifreeze to 75% distilled water & my bike thanks me for it. That's good for -10c temps & increases cooling by 25%+ which is a bonus. The stock 50/50 mix is designed for use anywhere from the coldest to warmest climates. Antifreeze is a poor coolant, distilled water is the best. Some antifreeze is required for its corrosion inhibitors. As always YTMV