Duc2V4

You are correct sir.

The description sounds right but does seem to be over simplifying how many times it takes to clear the air out of a line. There are a few makers of these bleed nipples, Russell, Goodridge and Speed Bleeder to name a few. Regardless of which one you choose, essentially, yes, you open the bleeder, press the pedal or pull the lever and it allows fluid to flow out, no need to close the bleeder before releasing pedal/lever. You do need to be cautious and keep your eye on the reservoir, make sure it doesn’t go too low as to introduce air into the line from the start of the line.

If the traditional bleed method of, pump, hold, open, close, release is too tedious, try speed bleeder nipples or an in-line bleeder with a one-way check valve, makes for much easier bleeding. I believe Motion-Pro has two types of in-line bleeder tools. If I recall correctly, one tool has a hose on either end of the check valve and the other one has a socket built into to the tool, so you can open the nipple and leave the tool attached. Then again if your mechanic is willing to do it and isn’t going to charge you too much, that would be another route too.

As of today (10/9/2018), ASV levers are still made in the USA, so no "also made in China" happening with their product...yet. Although I would suspect that there could be knock-offs being made and sold by unscrupulous resellers. Personally, I do not have an anti-Chinese product stance but can say the Chinese levers I had prior to getting authentic ASV levers, did suffer from color fading (right away) and the pivot holes getting out of round after a couples of years of use. Being that they are priced so cheaply, I guess one could toss them out an buy another set and still be below retail prices of authentic ASV or Pazzo levers. I prefer to just have a good quality product from the get go, so now have all three of my bikes with ASV levers installed. Even without an anti-Chinese point of view, I really do not like the typical Pazzo knock-offs, or even authentic Pazzo levers for that matter. I prefer the ASV style adjustment knobs (Even OEM have them) vice the preset index adjustment the former have. I like the ability to be able to fine tune the lever position versus having a predetermined position. I also like the quality of the ASV levers, even after a couple of tip overs (all three bikes) and even a low side crash on two different bikes with ASV levers, the levers never broke, they came out a bit scratched, but they never broke. Since I have no experience with the Chinese levers in similar fore mentioned incidents, I cannot comment as to how they would fare in these similar instances. In all fairness, I actually still have my Chinese levers, I keep them in a travel bag when I go touring, just in case me or someone else in my group suffers a crash and loses a lever, so far so good with my ASVs in the past two cases. To me, the knock-offs are still good enough to use but just not my cup of tea. I even have a set of Chinese made rear sets on my 5 Gen, so again, no worries about Chinese products, as long as the quality meets my expectations.

I bought some of their safety wire bolts, these are bolts with predrilled holes for safety wire. They also have a “dual drive” bolt, it’ll take an Allen head or a traditional socket/wrench, which are really cool too.

One cool benefit of the PCV is that you can load two maps into it and using a contact closure, provided you’re not running the auto tune module, you can switch between them. This is great for anyone who wants to try out a different map and do a quick A/B comparison or two have different profiles loaded for different performance levels, without having to break out a computer.

That was my assumption but someone here felt it was meant for 8 gens because it was in the 8 gen section. I was just pointing out that titles seen on the main page are what members look at, not necessarily the section it was posted in and usually the member has already started posting or has already posted, when they notice that. It's happened countless times. What I was trying to convey, is that if a thread was really meant for a particular generation, it's usually for a technical question regarding that generation. Titles that are "generic", like yours, can be anywhere and if they are within a certain generation, the post may not actually be specific to that generation. So thank you for helping me point this out. It's a great thread topic and one that SHOULD be shared among all VFR generation owners, regardless of if its in the 8 Gen section. Cheers!

Wow! You’re really upset by this aren’t you? All I’m saying is that the title was leading members to post what they were doing with their VFR, regardless of it was an 8 Gen or not. My point was, if the title was more specific, I don’t think it would have lead members to post their non 8 Gen pics, me included, as the category is something that is less noticed than the title. I wasn’t actually saying to change it, I was joking. The main reason for the categories is for technical questions, things that are usually specific to a generation, i.e. VTEC motor specific questions, like cam chains and VTEC valve inspections. Things that are not relevant or specific to a generation or “generic” as this title appears to be, leaves the door open to members posting something there. What would be absurd, is if there was a ‘What did you do to your VFR today?’ thread for each generation. For one, I’m sure the server won’t let you create a thread title with the same name, the other would be utter confusion. Maybe moving this thread to a more general category would make this apparent issue go away.

But, these are the spare wheels!

What I mean is, members treat the title as being at a higher level than the category...change the title to ‘What did you do to your 8 Gen VFR today?’ and problem solved.

I think the title of the thread appears at a higher level than in what category the thread was posted in...the genie is out of the bottle now though.

I did a double whammy. I used the Pit Bull 'Tire Wedge' accessory I got for Christmas with my front stand, when I swapped out the current wheels that have the Michelins on them with the spare wheels that have the Pirelli Super Corsas on them. The Pirellis were originally destined for the Duc but decided to put them on the spare VFR wheels so I can try them with either VFR and I took the Bridgestone S21s that were on the 01 VFR on the Duc. Seemed like a fair swap.

Well I took my 6 Gen to go have lunch with my business partner, not meaning to rub it in but good god! It's fricken 80F here in So Cal, it's supposed to be winter! Yesterday two record highs were broken in LA proper.

Hi Duc2V4, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Slave was replaced about a year ago when I replaced the bleed nipples with speed bleeders and rebuilt the clutch and brake master cylinders. It was a yo-yo dyne that I replaced it with.

Hmm, Surprised HEL didn't have a line for the clutch. Their 5 and 6 Gen kits have the connecting block for the hard cross over lines, either way 40% is a good deal. Was it from HEL directly or through a re-seller, as I'm thinking about replacing the lines on mt\y '95 900 Super Sport.

I might be able to accommodate you. PM Sent.

Yes, on the MC. Return hole may not be the proper name but it is essentially where the fluid flows in and out of the MC. It’s easy to see it and see it work when dealing with the front brake MC. It’s right in the middle of the MC “coffin” and has a splash guard right above it. The rear MC should work in the same manner but might be harder to see it in action. Another item to check is the proportioning valve. Did you bleed through that as well? How was the old fluid when you started the bleeding process? There have been some members who have had fluid that was congealed and essentially needed to pull the whole system apart to clean out the old fluid, or what was once fluid.

If you’re 100% certain that the pistons are clean, the return hole is not clogged, then check the spring clip that sits between the edge of the pads and the caliper. The longer section of the clip should be where the pad that moves sits. I.e. The piston side of the caliper. The short end goes under the stationary pad. It’s part #13 in this parts fiche...Rear caliper parts fiche

If I am not mistaken, the VFR800 uses a MAP sensor. In regards to the Power Commander, the PC5 has the ability to switch between two maps and is done via a contact closure. Open circuit = Map 1, Closed circuit = Map 2.

This only applies to bikes with ABS

Member SFdownhill and I grabbed a handful of these for $10 ea. (shipping included), some sort of special he stumbled upon. A couple for my two VFRs, a couple for his and Hammerdrill's VFR. Haven't picked mine up from him yet but I believe he installed his already. We'll see how long they last, or how quickly they destroy the sensor drive pin! (re: V$ Rosso's post)

I'd say it depends on what model and how good a shape it's in...

Many riders here use and enjoy the PR4, myself included. It is a very well rounded tire (pun not intended), it does a lot, last a good many miles and seems to perform well for most riders. I usually stick with what I know and may step out of my comfort zone once in a while to try something that others have made good comments about. However, that is usually when I have doubts and/or desires to see if there is something better than what I know. Sometimes cost is a factor and considering Michelins are not cheap, it may be worth trying something else once in a while. Basically, if you're comfortable with them and don't have any cost issues, they will do just fine on your VFR. As far as the Road Smarts, I believe there are few here that have tried them, so I'll let them chime in as I have used Dunlops in quite some time.

I have to say that is one gorgeous bike you have there Dutchy!