magicman

Was there not a long thread about kits with pics of the light output and whatnot on here a year ago? Wasn't it Tightwad and another member developing a kit that had the correct focus?

Anyone?

So, when the bike is cold, all is normal. Hit the signal switch, signals work at regular rate and cancel correctly. But after about 5-10 minutes, once the bike is up to temp, if I hit the RIGHT signal button, the indicator on the dash flashes very quickly, and the lights do not flash at all. The front running light goes out. Cancel the signal, and the running light comes back on (as it should). Everything goes back to normal for just driving straight. The LEFT signal works correctly all the time. I know it's not just bulbs because they work when the bike is cold, and normally for the first couple minutes of riding. Am I looking at a failing relay? Any other likely causes?

Anyone make use of their weekend?

Bike to bike while moving?

Now, may I suggest that you immediately get that bike re-appraised to make sure that, god forbid, something else might happen to it, you are covered for your immense re-investment into that VFR. Also. That is looking absolutely FANTASTIC! :fing02:

I'm still just waiting for confirmation if they will sync with the real Q2. If so, I hope they brought lots in stock... :beatdeadhorse:

Couldn't have said it better myself... But I can say it bigger... That is one sexy fork!

I don't know what you've been doing or riding in, but I'm still loving mine. I did a 600km loop yesterday (This, but reversed direction), with speeds averaging 98kph for the whole trip. That includes probably an hour worth of 60kph zones (which I did respect). Once in the back woods, it was 4th gear vtec range for most of the day in the tight stuff, with 5th gear vtec for the more open (but still curvy) sections. And of course some 3rd gear wot corner exits. The rear tire performed admirably. I couldn't ask more of it. Not a HINT of slippage. And as I said, I was not being gentle. Running 42psi cold. Now, with many more days like that, I don't expect 15,000km out of it. But most of my riding isn't quite that intense, at least not for such a prolonged period of time. I wore the last of my side tread off my front take off. On both sides. :blush: I think your problem is either A) suspension set up, or B) confidence in your tire. Probably a combination of both. Ever notice that people looking for or expecting problems tend to find them more often? I think that might be the issue now. 1st slip was probably the dirty road. The rest might be poor positioning/throttle application choices, with the thought of tire spin in the back of your mind. Now, it may be too late for you to overcome it, but I'm certainly much happier with this new tire than my old BT-021. So it looks like one great review (not particularly in depth), and one sketchy review. Who'll be next to test one? :fing02:

I've got just under 5,000km on my BT-023GT so far. It's doing much better than my previous BT-021. I'm about to do another 520km tomorrow. And I think that'll round off the 5,000km. Traction has never faltered, and I do of course also ride in any weather conditions. Tread wear so far is very even, with VERY minimal signs of squaring. Chicken strips in the 1cm range. As I've said before in other threads on this tire (I think this is the 3rd), the GT model is the way to go for the VFR. Unless you only ride solo, and without luggage. Otherwise this bike has a fat enough ass to qualify for the GT. :fing02: I'm expecting ~12,000-15,000 km based on the current wear indications. Since I'm running a Supercorsa SP1 race take off up front, my statements (as above) only apply to the rear tire. :cheerleader:

So, are we getting anywhere on this yet?

I'm also feeling the wheels in big-wing-matching dark silver (or charcoal) would be the trick. They are right about black wheels drowning out with the swing arm... Looking A1! :fing02:

I'm running the GT version of the new BT-023 for "heavy" bikes. It is MUCH more competent than my old BT-021 ever was. It's also not squaring off. Now, I do a fair amount of 2 up, and "touring" (back road cruising). BUT! Most of that 2 up riding is more sport than tour. If you're only riding solo, and are focused on sport, the regular would be better. But if you've ever considered trading in for something a little bigger (like a Concours), than the heavy bike tire might be for you too. :fing02:

Is a hotter motor really more efficient? You're not just going to have additional heat build up in the coolant, but also in the oil! More importantly, all your "soft parts" (Gaskets, bearings, o-rings, etc). The heat has to go somewhere. Have you ever gotten stuck on your bike in traffic? Can you imagine if the single rad with a fan had to do ALL of the cooling in that situation?!? Some how, I don't think it'd be up to the task. Especially when all of your gaskets and o-rings are running hotter (sustained) than they were designed too. It is a terrific idea if you would indeed get more efficient combustion and operation, but there would be a significant amount of other work required to support your coating of all the casings, etc. There would also be a fairly significantly increased maintenance schedule. I don't want to start an oil discussion, but I don't think regular Honda GN4 10W40 would be upto it. Nor would most 10W40s. Now, if you were running a street fighter with a big single front mount rad to test it out on, that'd be a great experiment (although $$$). I don't think I'd try it on the VFR just yet. Not until you discuss it with some professional engineers, in a professional environment (IE: not getting advice from other engineers outside their perspective field via a forum,or from wannabe's like me. :fing02:)

I'm kind of interested to hear your long term opinion on the lightened flywheel. Normally when you go lighter it makes the motor twitchier, as in it's easier to make quick rpm changes. On our bike, where it's already quite "throttle sensitive", I'll be eager to hear how it runs in "cruise" mode on the highway, or you know, getting to your fun places... Otherwise, I'm very excited by your entire project, and can't wait to see your results. And then when you decide to toro-charge it too. :laughing6-hehe:

Not to be thread jacker, but I just called my nearby HF location and they said the 20% off coupon is on a mailer they send out, but that he'd have me fill one out in the store and give me the discount anyway. The foot-powered moto lift is on sale for $359.99. With the 20% off, that puts it at $288!! I think I'm getting one today! Just wondering if I really need it. It would make certain maintenance tasks easier, but I'm cheap. Should I? Who asks other guys if they should buy a tool and expects a "no"? :fing02: Buy it!

Air filter.

If only there were another 9hp to be found... Then you would have doubled the stock output! I wonder if those e3 diamond fire plugs work... :fing02:

Yowzah!

As an open and inquisitive mind, I applaud you for your efforts and eagerly await results! I think part of the reason this is not a popular technology is the whole power draw issue. How many of the people who would honestly consider building a rig to test it in the original pioneering days would have had a motorcycle to do it with. And more importantly, a Stator based charging system. Best of luck, and be sure to continue to make regular updates with even minor results.

True. It also comes with a different tread pattern. I'm not going to run it because I run stickier fronts, but I'm sure someone will give it a shot.

Ride is better than my old BT-021 ever was. I think the GT was definitely the right choice. Keep in mind the regular tire in a 180/55 is designed for most other sport bikes which tend to top out around 470 wet. The VFR isn't FAT, but definitely has a bit of extra weight. With the amount of 2up riding we do, the regular tire would be running out of spec. GT for sure.

Working in a bike shop, I decided to special order one in just for me... I'm running the rear only, and I took the GT model, designed for "heavy weight" bikes. They list the BMW R1200 as an example. ~600lbs. The VFR with bags, and all the crap in them, is probably in the 560+ region wet. Since I quite often have the girlfriend on the back, I figured the GT would be smarter. My 021 didn't seem to stand up to the weight very well, and squared off something awful. This seems to have been a common problem with the 021 and a heavy bike. So BT-023 GT it was. The turn in is fantastic! The bike really wants to just drop right in to the corners. After leading a couple very spirited rides, I've yet to detect anything close to a loss of grip. And if it matters to you, my chicken strips are only about 3/8". :biggrin: In the wet, the tire is very complacent, and maintains that wonderful grip (even at 140kph+). Also keep in mind the ambient air temp here has been probably an average of 10C for my rides on this tire. It is working VERY well. I had the tire installed about two weeks ago, and am now at ~2,500km, with very little signs of wear, and no sign of squaring. If your dealer isn't offering (nicely) discounted 021's, I would wholeheartedly recommend the BT-023 GT rear for the VFR. I normally run a sport tire front, so BT-016 or similar (currently a take off Pirelli Supercorsa SC2), so I can't really say anything either way on the front other than to say it has probably improved in the same fashion as the rear over the BT-021.

This way also sounds cooler, and therefore he can probably charge WAY more too. :goofy:

So if I clamp onto the front brakes, and it starts to nose dive, the rear brake would let off? That kinda sounds counter intuitive... I thought the point was to GET rear braking to make it squat? I know the inverse wouldn't be better either, making the rear want to lock up (or trigger ABS) when the weight is off it. I think a consistent amount of braking in relation to the front would be best. Especially in a panic stop. I want to know EXACTLY how the bike is going to react, with as few variables as possible. Going 2up would completely change the braking with your suggestion.