Shinigami
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Everything posted by Shinigami
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From the album: Shinigami's gallery
March 5th in the Rockies on the 8th gen. Not quite spring, but heated grips make up for it. -
I completely agree with this point of view, after using one since the start of last summer.
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Damn sorry to see that. Used to live in SD downtown, the theft rate in the area on bikes is mind boggling. Best of luck on this.
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Unleashing 5th Gen Factory Power + DMr + Thurn MS
Shinigami replied to 2k1GoneWild's topic in Fifth Generation VFR's
I have over 10 years' experience with this bike and engine, and I believe you are stating an impossibility. My only question is why? The concerns that you will mislead people who don't know better are completely valid. -
Nice that this new device seems to work with the 20S base units.
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Red for my Hondas, white on my Pani. Yeah, weird, I know.
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i didn't find it necessary to remove the mid-cowl for my install, but I did have to be creative when threading the wire past the frame members.
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Same as on certain examples of the liter Fireblade if I recall correctly.
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I was a little surprised to see the plastic deflectors deleted from the 6th get model to this one, but after 21K miles I still don't have anything getting through to that part of the legs. Not even much in the way of bugs.
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General, I run between 172 (downhill, cool temps) and 220 (uphill, altitude, steep canyon, 3rd gear at 60+ mph) It generally runs cooler than my '03 6th gen, but a lot hotter than my CBR. The Pani, on the other hand- you could roast weenies with that thing.
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res ipsa loquitur, fink.
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One driver for the whole smash. Glad it worked out- headlight unit is pushing a thousand dollars. The driver unit is considerably less.
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This is on their website as i type this (bold and underscore added for emphasis) K&N powersports oil filters contain a modern synthetic filter media, designed for ultimate flow with less pressure drop, yet engineered for outstanding filtration. K&N powersports 'spin-on' oil filters feature a heavy-duty metal can. Most of these have a 17 mm nut affixed onto the end that allows for easy installation and removal. The 17 mm nut is crossed-drilled so racers can safety wire the filter to their bike.
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By the way, those of you on the fence about buying a pipe and pulling the baffles ought to move quick- new regs are kicking in making it much more difficult to remove the DB Killers on aftermarket cans.
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One cup is 230-something CC's. In my experience as little as 120 cc's is enough to take you from bottom of the sight glass to the top 1/3rd. A cup is a lot.
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Glad it worked out.
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Waiting for the next monkey who wants to make this the fault of the installler...
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Does your bike have an OEM sleeve gasket? If so, remove it. You definitely seem to have the correct pipe.
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Again, these filters can fail WITHOUT USING THE NUT TO TIGHTEN. It is simply a bad design.
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The problem is, I did not use the nut for installation, in either of my two cases, and i'm not the only one who had a problem when not using the nut, either. The spot-weld tends to weaken the cap. Making matters worse, the problem doesn't occur until some time after installation. In addition, circa 2008-2010, the website copy certainly did refer to "ease of installation" with the nut. The "wrench off" language is more recent.
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No, multiple leaking filters IS proof of poor quality.
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Not a new issue- I posted about this here years ago, had it happen on two separate bikes. Do a little searching and you will find two things- it's common, and K&N apparently could not care less.
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Sticker of 8000, or out the door for 8000?
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With the prices some standards are going out the door for, you can get some of the important items on there and still save money. Particularly now that the price of the DLX bike MSRP is 2K more than the standard. Honda's obviously trying to move standards off the floor- it was a bad idea in the first place, not to offer all the bells and whistles as found standard in the rest of the world.
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I'm suddenly a Brexit fan.... not that this would solve the matter. All joking aside, defeating these things is still trivial for anyone with the right tools and techniques. It's just going to require a Bridgeport and EDM machine instead of a stubby Allen wrench.
