dogman

here is mine while on tour in Tasmania Australia

I would be interested in one also mate.

Wow that's effin HUGE!

I think we need an undertail to get rid of those ugly pannier brackets which spoil the look of the rear end IMHO.

You are the Guru my friend. So does it still run rich on cold start?

Thats no small job. You must know these things inside out by now.

Man what an epic. Kal, mate, you have about 10,000x the patience I have. Good luck. (I would have just bought a new one)

Very good Kal. I must get around to clearing mine as I have done several starter synchs and not checked.

Yeah, stick with it boys :biggrin:

Not a stupid question at all! I think it comes down to personal choice - I guess you could disable it, remove it and then ebay it on to the next chap if you wanted to. However, you can adjust the max amount of variation from the base map that the system will allow (I currently have it set to +10 to -7 from the set cell ammount). As you progress with increasingly more accurate maps (and your trims should start to get smaller and smaller) you can decrease these values (the default range is +20 to -20). That means once you are happy you can largely eliminate the problem on decel simply by not letting the system enrich over a certain amount (less then say +5 is not likely to have a dramatic effect on performance, assuming a good base map). Keeping the Autotune and using the max variation limits also means your bike will continue to refine and adapt as you put different fuels in, temperature changes, even air pressure or altitude. None of these should result in a dramatic change, so tight limits allows your map to remain on target for those AFRs regardless of conditions. (its things like that which really make the Autotune stand out!) Yeah I guess so, I was wondering what the lifespan would be like on the 02 sensors, say for instance it went bad, would that throw everything out or would it revert to the last good map, or would you have to replace it and start over. I guess like a PC3 you would save a good map to your laptop and then reinstall it if the need arises???

Thats a great report GPM, lots of good info. Can I ask a stupid question, once the autotune has established an AFR that you are happy with over the entire range, do you disable the autotune and just use the maps it has created or is the wideband sensor used all the time so adjustments are being constantly made?

Good write up. Any particular reason for not unplugging the solenoid? Also I would be interested to hear any theories on why the idle speed drops when the pair is disabled. In theory it shouldnt, but we all know it does. I have my own theory but I would like to hear others. Hint: You can largely restore the idle speed by making the mixture leaner at idle, ie-10% at 1250RPM and 1500RPM 0% throttle (but of course you need a powercommander for this)

Quick update on this also, I think this oil (5W40) is too light for the Aussie summer, the slick gear change went off after about 1000 Kms so I have gone back to the 10w40 semi synthetic. It is probably OK for winter use.

I am just trying out Castrol power 1 racing, full synthetic, 5w40 mainly because it was cheap at the time $60 / 4 litres. This oil replaces the Castrol R4 superbike Seems Ok, gearchange is very slick, engine runs cooler. I was worried about the "5" aspect of the cold viscosity, but that is at 0 deg C and it is never that cold here. Previously I used Mobil xtra 4t semi synthetic 10 w 40 with good results, and have used mobil 1 racing 4t in previous VFRs also with good results, but it has become very expensive, about $80 for 4 litres. A few people here swear by Motul 5100 10w40 semi synthetic, but I think it is too expensive ($70 for 4 litres) for what it is. The manual recommends a 10 w 30 now, seems a bit light to me. Not too sure about running the 5 w 40 over our hot summer though.