Tightwad

Once the connectors burn, they don't seem to be the same. Hopefully you caught it soon enough! Joshua

Not sure what happened to the pictures Lobster posted, they were (are?) hosted separately from VFRD. I can't see most pictures from work so I can't tell what the issue might be. The pictures shown are of a less refined model that was used for initial fit, I haven't had the opportunity to install one myself on a 2000-2001 model, but the 98-99 model would be very similar.

Its hit or miss to get a tentioner that doesnt rattle , just look at those who've replaced them multiple times even at best they dont rattle for a while , being you did get change on the issue , says you replaced the right part. You probably seen my mention on the issue with oil type that corrected my noise and it was loud& Kronic , but I recently noticed The oil hole through the gasket can barely fit a needle through, I wonder if increasing that hole would free the oil flow alittle and aide with the body rattle, so people can use what ever oil they want and be noise free. Turns out I only heard a minor rattle on the couple miles back to my house. After that....dead quiet! So far after 3K miles it's silent. 3K miles in a month??? Did you take another trip? My bike went a whopping 2 feet in the last 2 months...and that was 2 feet to the right so I could get better access all around it.

Looks like fun! I wish I had the technical drawing skills you guys have (or the time/energy to develop them).

:biggrin: I spent about $230 for my custom LED's installed and with a 5yr warranty. I have Whelen LED's all around my E52 topcase and it is quite bright. I can change the flash pattern with a magnet (which my fellow riders appreciated at tmac!). And the job looks factory---very good work. I've been very pleased with them and it will last years. Any details on what was installed? Are they on the case or in the case? Pictures?

I need to look more into this myself. I made my own using regular LED, but turned sideways. Surface mount LED are not very bright generally, and my setup was more of a Proof of Concept. It works, as proven I guess....but not nearly as bright as I would like. I love the connectors, and will certainly look into them...I opted for a Cat5 cable so I could use a M/M connector and easily unplug. As far as making them run, blink, etc...a chip would be the way to do it, and would make it a bit more complex...the worst part is there are so many different trunk styles that each one would be a custom design, and most don't want to spend $200 for parts + custom labor.

I am guessing... They look fully adjustable in all directions Not noticeably more, at least for the 1" drop pegs I fitted to my bike (but for only $75) I am betting they weigh more, but not enough to make a difference....don't eat that whopper for lunch and it will be even

That maybe true for the first few weeks finding the right setup. After a year or two it has paid for itself, saved you a lot of time not having to do chain maniteance and no more worrying if your chain will last till the end of your journey. I have had zero issues with mine, and never a spot on the garage floor (not that I care, it's a garage not my kitchen). I do notice the plastic piece below the swingarm has a nice coating, and the rim/sidewall has some streaks. I have gone close to 4K miles with it, and haven't touched the chain.

Per your request: STUPID sorry, I couldn't resist.

Removing that hose (if equipped with a drain hose in hand) takes about 1 minute, and saves a ton of headaches...I would suggest removing them both, but natually there is more than one way to skin a cat (I prefer Duct Tape and Gasoline....) I bought both, but the rear is quiet so I saved that one for future install...although next time I am going to try increasing the tension by 1-2 turns to see what it does. Now that I know the process is a 1 hour job at best, it isn't so daunting to put the old part back in. Good post, TW. Just to add a little tidbit from personal experience. If you do nothing else right, these three things MUST be done. 1 - Don't be a lazy bestid and remove that hose. 2 - The CCT CAN be removed w/o the little key. BUT Don't be a lazy bestid and use the key 3 - You could tighten the two CCT bolts by hand, BUT Don't be a lazy bestid and use the torque wrench. Following these simple instructions will prevent a lot of gray hairs and you wouldn't have to post topics titled "Oooopppsss!!!" Ask me how I know :blush: :dry: :rolleyes: :ph34r: I recall having read your thread prior to doing mine...which is why I was so careful about what was in the way. The worst part of the whole thing was when that hose started draining on me, and I was scrambling to find something for it to drain into while elbow deep in the bike.

just bumping this because Didit needed it in another thread....

Yes, they should fit. A small adjustment was made to the mounting that enabled them to fit the 5th gen bikes. I have a set in black if you are interested, or I can get the polished or clear anodized versions.

I haven't seen many with the BOS system either... in fact thinking about it, most VFR's I do see just have the standard pipes as I'm betting it's pretty expensive. Mine was already fitted when I bought the bike and it's one of the main reason I bought it - still makes me grin from ear to ear a year later :biggrin: I've got the 02 elminators on my bike with no PC and I find she works beautifully with smooth power without any hiccups. I can't imagine anyone having the 02 oxygen sensors plugged in as it makes the bike feel terrible. I actually just removed my O2 Eliminators, as they created a bit of a hesitation at 4500-6K RPM...just a titch but it bugged me, and i found no other benefit from them either.

In preparation for the Dallas to Dillon run, I needed to do some maintenance work big time. 28,900 miles on the clock, I bought the bike with 14,000 miles...so more than half are mine now. Only averaging 7K miles per year, but this trip should blow that away....3500 miles estimated total. In April I put a new back tire on (Bridgestone BT021). Less than 2K miles, I hated to remove it, but I did anyway. I installed new tires front and rear, replacing the Pirelli Diablo front. The front wasn't totally dead, but it wouldn't have made another 1K miles, let alone 3500. I put both tires on the shelf...never know when you will need a spare to get you by. I will be looking for a deal on more new tires pretty soon...6 months or so I would guess. I found it pretty tough to remove that back tire when the tread was so new, but the Mojo-Lever, Mojo-Blocks and Harbor Freight Tire Changer setup made quick work of it. I used my Marc Parnes balancer to get the balance down...it's within 1/4 oz now. I realized my 3 tire gauges give 3 different readings, but i set as close to 36 front and 42 rear as I could. Tire Gauge I am taking reads a couple pounds light I think. As part of my maintenance work, I changed the oil...Mobil 1 10w30 with a Fram Tuff Gaurd filter. I had the filter on the shelf already, and a couple quarts of the oil. I like running synthetic because I get more miles between changes. I forgot to buy a new sealing ring for the drain plug...so i am going to hope this one lasts one more install! I noticed I was a bit low on coolant...bottle was empty, and the Radiator was a cup or 2 low. I added some distilled water I had...never use tap water...especially not Dallas tap water. In addition to the oil changes, I also bled the brakes and cleared out as much of the old fluid as I could. With the Speedbleeders installed brake bleeds are VERY easy, just a bit time consuming. I found my mightVac wasn't strong enough to pull the fluid easily, but a couple pumps of the lever would do the trick, and the Speedbleeders kept the fluid from sucking back in. I didn't notice any air bubbles to speak of. I hate bleeder nipples...why don't they make them tapered so hoses will seal easier on them? I also installed my Pro Oiler chain oiler. This has been sitting on my shelf for 3 months or so...finally got around to it. Seems to be working well, i am keeping my eye on it. I also replaced the side Pod Panels...thanks Ki-Speed! I wanted to install the Datel meter in the right panel instead of the homebrew meter I had there, and the left panel had the corner broken off somehow. I had fixed it (easy to do, works well) but it was ugly. Mark had a spare set he sent me, so I took this opportunity to install them. I also replaced the final Bike Bolts on my bike in the front plastic part (if front of headers) to the black head version I was supposed to receive with the kit initially. If you order Bike Bolts, color matching means when the panel is black, the bolt is black. When the panel is painted, the bolt is painted. Great service from them, and i love that they sell the Well Nuts and Plastic Rivets...those have been popular items on my website. Recap: 28,900 miles: Bled Brakes Changed Oil Added 1.5 quarts of Distilled water to the system Changed Tires Installed Chain Oiler

I thought there were only two seasons in Canada....Winter and July...

For those who have been tracking this topic, Randy now has the Pegs available for sale! Two versions are available, the SideTrax and CrossTrax models. Both have a 1" in drop (future may include a no-drop option). The CrossTrax is a tapered peg...gives it a sportier look, and has a waffle design with 3 holes drilled through the pattern. I currently have this set mounted on my bike, and I find the traction to be very good. the CrossTrax is also a shorter peg, which may provide a small bit of ground clearance. In addition, neither contains a peg feeler, so some clearance is gained there I am not a super aggressive rider (at least not in Dallas), so I haven't drug a peg yet, but I have caught my toe when under the shifter in a turn....so I am learning to be careful. I feel a bit more of the buzz because there is no rubber top, but the look is a great upgrade, and the 1" drop helps with knee position. Randy has been awesome to work with, as has his wife Alicia. Their attention to detail, and desired to build a quality product is second to none. I am hoping to talk them into more VFR specific products, so hopefully the pegs turn out to be a good investment for them! Pegs are available from my site as well as his. Pricing has recently been changed...price is now the same for Polished or Anodized (Clear or Black). 5th gen Pegs are coming soon I believe, onedowneaster has been very willing to help in the fitment there, and I believe the same pegs will work for 1998+ models! Randy's website: http://www.knightdesignllc.com/index.htm My website is in my Signature

What about a small piece of window tint, which will dim the light shining through? I am sure any window tinting place can give you a 1" square piece that will do it.

I agree...the throttle lock reduces a LOT of fatigue, even if you have perfect posture. I have a bad back, so holding perfect posture is a bit tough on it, but the throttle lock allows for much longer days.

Took my first ride with mine today (driving to work). I cleaned by sprocket, but the chain hadn't been touched since new, when i changed it a few months ago. The chain is still pretty dirty...10 miles doesn't give it much chance, but I can see the sprocket teeth are "wet" looking, so I assume the oil quantity is about right. Controller mounting: Wire/Line Routing: Bottle/pump mounting You can see here where my oil line goes into the chainguard: Zip Tied to Chain Guard:

That totally sucks! Glad you are ok, and that it happened close to home and not in the middle of your trip!

Got mine installed tonight....took awhile since I hadn't done it before. You would be hard pressed to know it was on there, other than the actual nozzle. I hid the oil line pretty good by running it under the brake hoses and down the inside of the chain guard (used a couple zip ties to secure it from the inside). Thanks Rad for the tutorial!

Running the Voltmeter from a relayed connection is the best thing to do, otherwise a manual calculation in your head also works....like others I use my meter to look for big changes...and to pick up chicks of course.

I love my Datel meter, except in direct sunlight, as it matches the shaped of the gauges.

That is the source to whom I was referring - he got these specifically on my request. Super vendor - this is the direct link for the connectors/harnesses http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Pr.../FKWH/fkwh.html That was a great writeup you did on the other forum. I am interested in the new MOSFET design. I am curious how they are sinking the stator input without heat...I didn't think the SCR was the problem as much as the output being so high potentially.