Leaderboard

I had a 3rd gen for 80-90K miles and shifting on the 5th is rougher. Not a problem, just not as good. I was able to pop down gears without the throttle and it was smooth and consistent, and upshifts were super consistent and quick. I shift the way Jason Pridmore taught me and he could do clutchless downsifts on a 4th gen, on a stand with the rear wheel in the air, that are so smooth you can't even see any chain lash. I rode on the back with him at Laguna Seca and you only knew he downshifted because you could hear it, there wasn't the slightest bit of roughness you could feel regardless of how hard or gentle his braking, and I actively practiced for years to try and achieve that level of smoothness. I can still do OK on the current bike, but the downshifts are just not as easy to do. This isn't lazy, it's me actively practicing my shifting and noticing a difference. So, yeah, if you're fine, good on ya. Enjoy your bike. But don't discount our perceptions. I also have a busted bolt (one of the LONG ones on the clutch actuator that the previous owner overtorqued), so I have to pull all that crap off anyway to drill it out. So the decision is easier for me. If I'm doing that work imma fuck with the shift star while I'm at it.

My butt and my bladder couldnt hold out for the full tank of gas on a setup like that. For me, the gas breaks with the stock tank are good....

Michael - I don't understand why you'd post this on the thread, as we have been corresponding successfully via PM. Your post here covers the same topic as the PM you sent yesterday. I responded yesterday that I'd been home since 9am, the mail hadn't arrived yet, and I have not received a notice from a carrier that a delivery attempt had been made. Later in the day yesterday I PM'd you with an update that the US Postal mail had been delivered and did not include an envelope or parcel from you. PM is the appropriate medium for our transaction.

Hey MadSci - yes the cost of passivation is extra above and beyond the cost of the header. We are having the prototypes passivated on behalf of their future owners - VFRD member Hammerdrill and some lucky individual who would like to own prototype 2 at a discount. We did discuss bung placement with Wade, and arrived at offering purchasers their choice of one of three options included in the price of the header: (1) no O2 sensor bungs at all (good for Power Commander owners that are not using autotune) (2) two O2 sensor bungs in OEM positions (3) one O2 sensor bung in the collector for users of autotune who run a single sensor. MadSci, my sense of Wade’s approach to things is that he’d do a third sensor bung for an additional cost. I will pin down what that cost would be and report back. Request - I would appreciate feedback from those 5/6 gen owners who use a single sensor in the collector: where and at what angle is it located? The photos below feature the standard 1/2” tall M18 bung that will be installed unless the ‘no bungs’ option is selected. The OEM bung locations and sensor size are also shown. DO NOT neglect to liberally coat sensor AND bung threads with anti-seize every time you install a sensor or a plug! At the end of the dyno day, I hand-threaded mild steel plugs into the bungs of prototype1, and 5 days later they had galled so solidly that I had to soak them in penetrating oil overnight and use an impact wrench to get them out. Close enough to M18 for government work: Positions everyone! (As in ‘here are the OEM bung positions’) Get yer frickin bird away from my pipes! Can’t you see that we are working on a header project here? No, I really, truly don’t care if he likes carbon fiber.