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This guide was created because I couldn't seem to find one that was very thorough and included pictures of all procedures. This guide requires the use of Speed Bleeders as it makes life so much easier! You can follow this guide using the old school method as well, but it will require more time and patience. Readers Notes: Left and ride side are determined as if you were sitting on the motorcycle. Images come after descriptions. Initialisms: LBS: Linked Braking System LPCV: Left-side (Servo) Proportional Control Valve (Battery side) RPCV: Right-side (Rear) Proportional Control valve (Opposite battery side) LMC: Lever Master Cylinder (Front) RMC: Rear Master Cylinder (Pedal) SMC: Secondary Master Cylinder (Left-Front Caliper) FSM: Factory Service Manual Parts Required: One man bleeder kit (optional) ATE SuperBlue Dot 4 Speed Bleeders Part Numbers: Front right caliper SB8125 Front left caliper outer bleeder SB8125 Front left caliper inner/centre bleeder SB8125 Rear caliper outer bleeder SB8125 Rear caliper inner/centre bleeder SB8125L Clutch bleeder SB8125L LPCV SB8125LL RPCV SB8125 Part 1: Theory Part 2: Diassembly And Prep Part 3: Procedure Part 4: Assembly Part 5: Clutch Part 1: Theory The LBS is confusing for some when it comes to understanding how it works. The function of the sytem changed from 5th generation LBS to 6th generation LBS. I'm not too sure what the changes were, but I do know they operate differently. The way the 6th generation LBS works is; when the front lever is applied, only five out of the six (three pistons in each left/right caliper) caliper pistons actuate as well as the centre piston in the rear caliper leaving the left caliper centre piston untouched. When the rear pedal lever is applied; only two out of the three rear caliper pistons actuate as well as the left front caliper centre piston. The LBS only works when the motorcycle is moving however, you can test this by propping your bike on the centre stand, rotating the rear wheel and applying the front brake; the rear wheel will not stop spinning. The way it works is by force. The SMC is mounted above the left caliper that's attached to the fork and with the motorcycle moving, the rider will apply the front brake which squeezes the pads on the rotor and that drag pivots the left front caliper up which actuates the SMC and brake fluid gets pushed through to the LPCV and then to the rear caliper centre piston. The rear doesn't work in the same way because there's actually a brake line that goes all the way to the front left caliper that actuates that one centre piston by it's lonesome with the application of the rear pedal. Thanks to BartmanEH for the above picture! Part 2: Disassembly And Preparation You want your bike to be on a level ground and prop the bike up on it's centre stand for this whole procedure. Rotate the handle bar all the way to the left so the LMC is level. Remove both screws and remove all the old fluid inside the LMC. You can use a turkey baster or rags, whatever you wish. Once the old fluid is out, fill it up with fresh new fluid. Make sure you squeeze the front lever a few times just incase you got any air bubbles when removing the old fluid. Using an allen wrench, loosen, but do not remove the left front caliper bolts. Remove the seat and do the same procedure you did for the LMC to the RMC. Don't forget to press the pedal lever a few times to remove any air bubbles. Remove the rear wheel. Remove the two bolts that hold the rear caliper together. The inside one is tricky and I needed to use a long 12mm socket to reach it. Once the rear caliper is removed, mount it at the 10 o'clock position on the rotor. The reason for this is so the inner/centre bleed screw is facing up, not parallel to the ground. Part 3: Procedure The procedure and order we're going to follow is the same one listed in the FSM, but with more pictures and explanations. Sections C. and D. are the most difficult. You will need a helper as well. USING FRONT MASTER CYLINDER LEVER FOR A. AND B. A. Left Front Caliper, Upper/Outer Bleed Screw This is basic bleed. Open very slightly, usually about a 1/4 turn and pump the front lever until new fluid comes out. Even though I use speed bleeders, I still pressurize it old school method just to be on the safe side. The old school method is; with the bleeder screw closed, have your helper pump the front lever five times and hold. While holding, gently unscrew the bleeder screw until fluid comes out and before the lever reaches it's maximum travel, tighten the bleed screw. Top up the fluid level. B. Right Front Caliper, Single Bleed Screw This procedure is the same as above. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level as it drains. USING REAR MASTER CYLINDER PEDAL FOR C. TO G. C. Leftside PCV (Battery side), Single Bleed Screw Actuated via SMC This step is the most confusing and difficult one as it requires good timing between yourself and your helper. The SMC is not attached at all to the front lever in anyway. You can unscrew the LPCV bleeder screw and pump the front lever all day long and no fluid will get pushed through. You could manually actuate the SMC by hand and only a little bit of fluid will come out and then stop. The correct method to do this; from what I've gathered on how the system operates and without using a vacuum bleed tool is as follows. Remove the two bolts that hold the left front caliper on. I used an aluminum L-bracket I had lying around to wedge between the pads so they don't close. Tilt the caliper 15° from the ground so the inner/centre bleed screw is facing up. Your helper will be on the RMC side pressing the pedal and you will be at the left front caliper in charge of manually actuating the SMC and loosening/tighten the LPCV bleed screw. The way this system works is; there's a brake line that goes from the RMC to the SMC and from the SMC to the LPCV. Because there's no reservoir at the SMC, there's no way for new fluid to replenish to continue being pushed through the lines and out the LPCV bleeder screw, however, this is where the RMC comes in. When your helper presses the RMC pedal down, the SMC piston will get pushed out filling it with fresh fluid. Once your helper releases the pedal, you will manually actuate the SMC by pressing it in to the caliper with your hand and fluid will get pushed through to the LPCV bleeder screw. Push the SMC in with your hand. Do not release from this point. Tell your helper to press the pedal again which will forcefully push the SMC out and then once your helper releases the pedal, you will manually push the SMC in again watching for new fluid. Once fresh fluid is coming out, I performed a final pressure bleed by tightening the LPCV bleeder, asking my helper to pump the rear pedal five times and release, then I loosened the LPCV bleeder screw and manually actuated the SMC gently half way and then tightened the bleed screw. Note: Even with speed bleeders installed, I did not manually operate the SMC more than once for safe measure. To further elaborate on this; continuously pushing in the SMC numerous times will not bleed the SMC to LPCV brake line because there is no reservoir at the SMC. You will push whatever fluid is in the line and it will become empty with air. One manual push of the SMC followed by one rear pedal actuation by your helper. D. Rear Caliper, Inner/Centre Bleed Screw Actuated via SMC This procedure is the exact same as the above. The only difference is, you're bypassing the LPCV and going all the way to the rear caliper inner/centre bleed screw. Pressurize the sytem the same way as above too. E. Rightside PCV (Opposite Battery), Single Bleed Screw This is the easiest step. Follow the procedure as in Section A. but using the RMC pedal. F. Rear Caliper, Upper/Outer Bleed Screw Another easy step, follow above procedure. G. Left Front Caliper, Inner/Centre Bleed Screw The last procedure, again very easy, same as above. Part 4: Assembly Top up both fluids if they are low and fasten all caps and lids back on the reservoir. Attach the front left caliper and torque the pivot and joint bolts to 23ft-lbs. The FSM says always use new bolts, but I cleaned up the old loctite residue, re-applied some new medium strength loctite and re-used them. Attach the rear caliper and torque the joint bolts to 23ft-lbs. The FSM says replace also but I did the same as the front caliper bolts. Reinstall the rear wheel and torque bolts to 80ft-lbs. Now would be a good time to prime (pump a few times) your front lever and rear pedal lever. Once primed, they should not travel a lot of distance; they should feel stiff. If for any reason the levers travel a larger than normal distance, then there's probably air in the line somewhere or you might have forgot to tighten a bleed screw. Note: The FSM says to use new bolts, not because there is something wrong with the bolts, but because there is probably some sort of loctite already applied to the threads. Thank you Metallican525 for that insight. Part 5: Clutch I don't have to go in to any detail about this because if you just did your whole brake system, might as well do the clutch as it's very simple and same procedure at Part 3, Section A. Remember to turn the handle bars to the right though. At the end, I took my bike for a ride and I had no idea that this bike has this much braking power! Mind you, my fluid was 6 years old which was probably the cause of that but this method works flawlessly. I hope this DIY was very thorough and gave you a good understanding on how to tackle this easy but tiresome procedure!

At the Montrose meet in August there was a good deal of interest in having another PacNW meet based in Oregon. The 2014 Oregon Trail meet changed venues each night, taking us on a good tour of the Eastern part of the state, while the one previous to that was in 2010 at Troutdale, based at McMenamins lodge / brewpub. This would be scheduled far enough apart from a PacNW Kootenay Hootenanny meet so that anyone wanting to do both would have time to get home and re-group. In addition to Troutdale, another choice based in Baker City is included. There are some fantastic roads in the B.C. area. Holding a meet there would be more central to more riders and would make getting there more equal for many. Though not listed as a choice, I'll also put in some rides in the Bend area. Some mentioned the Oregon Coast - I'll leave that to members to make suggestions, if any. If there is stronger interest those rather than either Troutdale or Baker City that could be considered. Here's some info: Baker City Population is about 10,000, so food / lodging / parts & service choices are limited https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baker_City,_Oregon Hotels: The top 3 in B.C. are either right near I-84 and far from town or lack parking. The #4 rated is the Bridge Street Inn where the 2014 meet stayed. Clean, tidy and about $50 per night. http://www.bridgestreetinn.net/ Nearby pubs / restaurants - all withing walking distance of motel. http://www.barleybrownsbeer.com/ https://www.facebook.com/BakerCityBrewingCompany https://www.facebook.com/Corner-Brick-Bar-Grill-380254838671534/ Here's the good part - the riding - lots of possibilities: https://goo.gl/maps/NgLJzvNg12o Sumpter was a mining area and has an abandoned dredge that seems fairly popular https://goo.gl/maps/pr3Tkv7KBnL2 https://goo.gl/maps/HBsHkG1aywJ2 http://https://goo.gl/maps/32KAU1MFZ8J2 For more ideas, here's the link to the Hell's Canyon Rally held there July 7-11: http://www.hellscanyonrally.com/ There is one Honda dealer in Baker City, Cliffs Saws and Cycles. No webpage I could find. My guess is they deal mostly with ATV's and dirtbikes - they may not have much familiarity with a VFR rear wheel or service procedures any more than another brand dealer. There is a Yamaha dealer just a few blocks from the motel. http://www.oregontrailsports.com/index.htm Troutdale - McMenamins Edgefield (Portland metro area) Edgefield was the "Poor Farm" in the 1920's and '30s for the Portland area and converted to a hotel in the '80's. It has its own brewing and wine making facilities on site, full restaurant, billiard hall (10 tables I think), an indoor movie theater, spa, soaking pools, disc golf, and outdoor movies for free in the summer. A room with a Queen bed looks to be $90 per night. http://www.mcmenamins.com/54-edgefield-home The location is easy to access on I-84 from the East, or I-5 either north or south. https://goo.gl/maps/Q954ixGw68o In addition to the Edgefield attractions, for anyone wanting to come early / stay longer there are motorcycle racing and track days at Portland International Raceway, about 1/2 hour away. PSSR and Moto Corsa Track Days are on Mondays (no dates yet), and OMMRA racing is over weekends. On Sunday race events, OMMRA hosts what they call a "Taste of Racing" (TOR) where they open the track over the lunch hour for 20 minutes to anyone that wants to pay $20. On a Viffer 130 to 140 mph speeds are possible on the front straight. Dates could possibly coincide with one if there's sufficient interest. http://motocorsa.com/events/track-days/ http://www.pssrtrack.com/schedule.html http://omrra.com/track-days/ The Honda dealers are all on the west side of PDX, however there are several shops closer to Edgefield that could assist with service / tires, including a Cycle Gear about 20 minutes away. Possible rides: https://goo.gl/maps/XZZuC7LG9VQ2 https://goo.gl/maps/enyBu1ihBPu https://goo.gl/maps/uTx26p3FxTu https://goo.gl/maps/pNcHY7KAQRo For family members that might attend there is also: Outlet mall at Troutdale is about 2 miles. No sales tax in Oregon. http://www.premiumoutlets.com/outlets/outlet.asp?id=28 http://www.skibowl.com/summer/mt-hood-activities/alpine-slide http://www.powells.com/ (Largest used bookstore west of Mississippi) https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/seasonal-hikes/summer-destinations/mount-st.-helens-hikes/ http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/mountsthelens/recarea/?recid=31562 http://www.timberlinelodge.com/ http://evergreenmuseum.org/ The Evergreen Museum includes the Spruce Goose http://www.worldofspeed.org/ http://www.portlandbysegway.com/ Crown Point Vista House https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crown_Point_%28Oregon%29 http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/vista-house-at-crown-point-corbett Bend Not part of the poll - here are rides out of the Bend area: https://goo.gl/maps/MsZXSx9uyfS2 https://goo.gl/maps/wJXywRQ7MiR2 https://goo.gl/maps/1vU4pvZ9qj32 http://https://goo.gl/maps/bF3e8wCfiaw Lots of info here - maybe probably too much - but better to make an informed vote. Post up what you think.

So you wanna buy a used bike huh? How many bikes have you checked out/bought in the past? The following is just MY initial list for things to check when looking at a used bike...at a dealer or private individual. This list is NOT exhaustive--it was initially stream of conciousness, so the order is not necessarily optimal either. There is a wealth of knowledge on how to buy a new bike. Usually a Google search on "how to buy a used motorcycle" is a pretty good place to start...that said, it won't get you here! Basically, the strategy I take is that you put a not to exceed price on a bike you are going to RIDE (collecting bikes is a different story and these "rules" don't necessarily apply when you're insane about collecting) and don't EVER buy one for more than that...the reason is that another one will always show up somewhere--oh and it will probably be in better shape than the one you're currently inspecting. NEVER be desperate! YOU are the buyer and YOU have cash...cash is king! So operate from a position of abundance, you are in control. Be fair, be kind, don't be a dick...but be in control. I used to be an Air Force Officer and this approach works well for buying cars and getting groups of people to do what you want as well...if you are needy, desperate and a dick...you will be hard pressed to get what you must. Above all, be honest--that includes not leaving out key information (especially if you're selling). It's amazing how keeping your side of the street clean ends up in positive motorcycle karma! Beware, honest, straightforward thoughtful, smart buyers tend to scare about 30% of the people...you don't reallly want a bike from those people...So here's my "how to list to buy a used motorcycle". This is aimed toward the VFR rider, but you can use 90% of it for any modern Japanese bike, maybe 85% for standard or cruisers. BEFORE YOU GO: Just for precaution's sake, always leave a trip plan with a friend or family member...whether you're riding, looking at a bike, hiking or on business. That way, if something should go wrong on the way there or back someone knows your plan--heck you may just run out of gas in an area with no cell coverage...or your cell battery died along with your charger. Taking a buddy is a good way to split up tasks so you can be objective AND observant. What is the owner nervous about when you ask questions or poke around on the bike? People will give you clues. Also, a friend can keep you from being too "rosy" or too down on one thing and help you evaluate the overall value of the bike that you're inspecting. Before you go--let the owner know you want the bike cold--so you can see how it starts and runs when cold. Get permission beforehand to take a test ride. Get the background from the owner before you get there and ask him again when you arrive--note any differences, if any, in the stories--significant ones can be a clue to whether you're getting the whole story or not. YOU'VE ARRIVED: 1. Ask for the service history...if the guy doesn't take it to the dealer for this...ask for his log. If he doesn't keep one, that is one nock against the bike...no records means no proof of maintenance...not always bad, but not a positive. Check the VIN and see if this is a California model or not (will have evap canister on the bike as well...important iif you live in Cali I imagine. Write down the VIN and I think you can ask your insurance company or the dealer to see the history of the bike (if it has been crashed--reported--or not). 2. Bike should be COLD when you walk up...if not, then he either jumped it or got it started and warmed up so it would start easier (the first time)...this isn't normally a problem with an FI bike, more often with bikes that have carbs...but still...it is a potential sign. 3. Check the color of the oil level and color of the oil through side viewing window (rt side engine case ahead of the clutch housing) with bike on center stand...oil level should be between two lines--if too low, take a note...will probably be darker as well. If too high--above the second line -- that's definitely not good either. 4. Bring some hex wrenches and peel off the left side fairing (ask first) and look at the coolant level, cold. It should have coolant in between the two lines. After you start it up and get it to temp it should rise somewhat. 5. if you have a Volt Meter, take the seat off. Check to see if the factory tools are all there...and check the cold voltage on the battery. >12.2V but that's not enough. After you start the bike the voltage (DC) should be >13.5 at 2500 rpm and less than 14.8V at 5000 rpm. Here's the fault finding guide link from electro-sport...https://www.google.c...102537793,d.dmo 6. Let the bike warm up at idle for at least 5 minutes...the temperature should be >175F...if its a hot day let it idle for 20-25 minutes and the temp should go up to 220...the fan should kick on...if temp goes above 225 and no fan you have an issue (the displayed temp is wrong or the fan switch is not working or there is an open circuit in the fan circuit...)..either way you need to get the bike to temp and make sure the fan comes on...you can rev the bike safely after 5 minutes and it is up to temp to get the temps up... 7. if it is at temp, check the weep hole under the water pump to see if any coolant is coming out...use a flashlight, see if the weep hole is not gunked up first...if it is, un-plug it with something small...if there is fluid coming out the shaft seal on the water pump is shot...this is not good but repairable. 8. You should also ask for a test ride--if possible. Be prepared to leave your car keys or, something to secure the fact that you might ride off with the bike. Don't push it--you don't know IF there's something wrong or not. Start slowly and act like it is an MSF course...go through the gears, do some braking to a stop, go down through the gears...work up to Emergency stop conditions. Eventually get up to full throttle upshifts, but don't push top speed (it's not your bike--you're just making sure it isn't a pile of broken bolts). Wear your gear--ATGATT! Make sure your insurance will cover this (call before you test ride!) if something goes wrong. 9. Look for crash damage to the fairings...cracks or obvious repairs...better if you can pull off the side fairings and check them and the seat off to see if the rear has been repaired. all the fairings should line up easily...all the fasteners should be there...and should be factory...even behind the front wheel in front of the front cylinders...these little clips are a pain, sometimes we replace them with similar types...not too concerning, but they should all be there. 10. Look at the engine cases to see if they have been ground down. Look for oil leaks/fluid leaks under the bike. Look at the oil plug and oil filter see if there's any leaking oil. 11. look at the bar ends...are they stock or aftermarket?...if aftermarket, ask to see the factory ones...they should not be ground down...a scuff is OK, ground down means laid down...not just a tip over. Look for dents in the tank...Look at the front turn signals...cracks around them means they were either crashed and broken or tipped over. If they are replaced with aftermarket, ask to see the stock ones ("in case you want to put them back on") if they are scuffed or not there they were probably broken in a crash. 12. with bike on center stand and facing a garage door, check out the headlight pattern...I've seen it where one was higher than the other...menaing the front fairing stays were bent ...you should be able to see this also if the front windscreen and fairing are closer to one handlebar or the other...as you sit on the bike with the front wheel straight ahead. 13. Bring a string...and do the alignment method on the front and rear wheels...with an SSA (single sided swingarm) if these are not aligned, the frame is bent (http://www.motorcycl...wheel-alignment). 14. Look at the chain and rear sprocket...if the teeth are worn, ask when it was replaced...if no records assume you need to replace front, rear and chain....this is at least $200 negotiating point. Same with tires, used tires are OK, new better, if they are at the wear bars, it is a negotiating point worth at least $300 to $400. 15. Look for rust at any of the subframe welds...to me, this indicates it was bent, cracked the paint and is now weakened. 16. Look under the seat and see if he has any switched relays for accessories...is there a fuse for the relay? How are the electrical connections, are they professionally done or look like an amateur slice and dice job? 17. Look at the brake fluid color and the clutch fluid color...take the tops off and see if there's gunk in the resevoir...should be light or color of honey at most...brown is bad, gray or black is horrible. front and rear rotors should show some wear but not big ridges or gouges...a little rust is OK if it sits outside, but should wipe off ...lots of pitting is bad. The pads front and rear should be able to be inspected with a flashlight...should have more than a 16th and near an 8th at least...if it looks like its almost flat means they are way gone...need not only replaced, but you need to check the caliper bores as well and maybe refresh. Have someone push down on the rear of the bike and get the front wheel off the ground...spin it. it should spin freely, you should hear the brake pads lightly sing on the rotors, but it should be fairly even and very light...wheel should spin a few rotations...not stop quickly or hear the singing pulse. if it sings, means the rotor carriers are bent most likely, an indication of a crash or someone was hamfisted changing the front tire...not a good sign. same with the rear wheel and bike in neutral, cept it won't spin as much because of the chain drag...so listen to the rear brake for dragging caliper...should not drag too much...and have some meat on the pads. There's plenty more you could check, but that's some of what I try to go over...if you can get a test ride there's more to do/feel...but I would ride it without earplugs...you should hear the Pair system flapper opening and closing when you start out and come to a stop...the chain should sound smooth when idling and clutch in...taking off shouldn't be snatchy. It should snick into second gear, third etc...easily. braking should be straight. So the best tool and tip I have here is tip numero cero #0: Be prepared--do your homework on the bike and it's foibles and idiosyncrasies--plusses & minuses AND make a checklist of things to BRING and DO when you get there! Have a plan for how much you will knock off the price or three prices for Excellent, OK and bad bikes! Don't vary...be prepared to walk away and have no regrets when you do...there's always a bike in a shed somewhere else that's better cared for than this one and it probably cost less! Have Fun and be safe and do good, that's what its all about! Matt Sept 28, 2015

I've never seen this done before https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJRzINZd93M