Countershaft oil seal - b@stard thing!

[DannoXYZ 158]

Looks like RC45 part has no lip, but not available. I usually get this kind of stuff from here: https://www.mcmaster.com/shaft-seals/ . Appears SKF #15922 will work.

 

To help in difficult install cases like these, I usually grind 45-degree bevel on back of seal and use seal-driver to push it in. Gently hammering on exact centre really keeps it from rocking and going in crooked. Perhaps you can cut section of PVC tubing to clear output-shaft and use seal-driver?

 

[Stray 135]

Thanks for clarifying the part numbers Dangeruss - I missed the detail.  
 

Good shout on the bevel, Danno. I was going to use a Stanley blade to cut off the lip. Do you recommend a better way? How did you grind yours? 

[DannoXYZ 158]

I use edge of angle-grinder disc. Clamp grinder in vice and angle seal just right and rotate through fingers. Practice on old seals.

 

Although in this case, slicing off lip-only with knife is better as you don't cut through rubber-layer entirely, causing it to peel off when installed. And piston-ring compressor is genius idea!!! 🙂Using some Hondabond as lube would probably help.

One thing to do is examine wear-groove created by previous seal on output-shaft. Then install new one slightly outwards or inwards from previous position so it doesn't touch at same groove.

 

EDIT: you can get straight-edged ones if cutting off lip didn't work.

 

Lancashire

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p27009/40x68x7mm-Nitrile-Rubber-Rotary-Shaft-Oil-Seal-with-Garter-Spring-R23-/-TC/product_info.html

 

Hampshire

https://www.polymax.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/183877/s/nitrile-oil-seal-type-a-metric-double-40-x-68-x-7/category/262/

 

also

https://123bearing.eu/section?family=4&fld_diametreinterieur=40&fld_diametreexterieur=68&fld_hauteur=7

 

There's options available such as double seals and alternate materials like viton for harsh chemicals. This isn't demanding application with high-RPMs, or high-pressure or high-heat, so I suppose basic NBR would be perfectly fine.

[Stray 135]

Thanks Danno and those links are pure gold! 

 

[SEdwards 0]

Many thanks for all this info guys.

 

Over the past year I have been bringing my '95 gen4 back to life after 10 years laid up.

 

Last Friday it went 4 miles to its MOT test. It passed the test. Then came 4 miles back.

 

On Saturday morning I had a small puddle of oil underneath that I traced to the output shaft seal. I had previously changed the shifter shaft seal for the same problem.

 

After reading this thread I now plan to shave down the lip on my replacement seal using the smooth wheel on a bench grinder to put a bevel on the edge at the same time.

 

All the alternative seals already have these bevels, but they wouldn't be needed if you are expected to drop it into a split case.

 

Whilst the side of the bike is apart I'm going to replace the rest of the rubber components in the area at the same time.

 

I expect to replace the clutch slave cylinder seal and the clutch pushrod seal. Have I missed anything?

 

All my parts are on order, they will turn up eventually. I think I know what to do, except for one thing...

 

 

If I pull that clutch push-rod out to remove the seal, will the rod be easy to get it back in again? Or should I work around it to replace its seal?

[Thumbs 122]

15 minutes ago, SEdwards said:

 

If I pull that clutch push-rod out to remove the seal, will the rod be easy to get it back in again? Or should I work around it to replace its seal?

No problem removing the clutch pushrod, you might want to put a compressible sleeve on it to reduce the rust and consequent damage to the seal ... the rubber boots from brake calliper slide pins work a treat filled with grease 

[Stray 135]

Today I trial fitted a new Honda seal inside out (with the lip facing outwards) just to test the compressive fit. 
 

Well it’s tight but does go in. 
 

If all else fails I’m guessing the seal could be installed inside out with the lip cut off and some 3 bond, no? Is there a reason it should be fitted one way rather than the other? 
 

It shouldn’t come to that as the seal will slide in nicely with the lip removed but I’m curious. I’m fact it might even be good to leave the lip on to give the 3bond something to hold into? 

EDIT: scratch the backwards seal idea. Pressure forces would be acting the wrong way and not pushing the outer lip against the bore. Seal should go in right way round. Thank you YouTube university!