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airdog84

Coolant flush and spark plugs any documentation with pic on the Forum?

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Hey guys, me again... 🙂

 

im ordering a service manual next week (unless you all have a free download somewhere) to tackle the coolant flush. 

 

Did a search but didn’t seem to come across any instructions with pictures step by step. Anyways thought I’d ask. 

 

Any recommendations on spark plugs for a stock bike? Also, should I replace the hoses for the coolant? They are 20 years old. Any suggestions are always appreciated.

thank you!!

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Couldn’t hurt to do the hoses. I did mine last year with silicon replacements. There’s threads about it somewhere. For sure you want to replace all the O-rings on the coolant connections to the water jacket. I think there’s 4 or 5 in total. 

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Hi, What do you mean by replace the O rings on the coolant connections to the water jacket? 

- Are these lyrics to a song LOL

--

I looked at the exploded parts viewer and didnt see any o rings on the Radiator section.

 

After seeing how fast my parts list is filling up I'm leaning towards keeping the stock hoses as they look decent no cracking from what i can see.

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Also, do you guys know the part number for your spark plugs you're running. 

 

I'm so sorry, I've been searching and the search bar gives some deep dive search results. 

-

Read about both the normal and iridiums. Thinking of spending m ore on the Iridiums so i dont have to do this maintenance for a long time.

 

Thoughts, Part numbers 🙂

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Did you download a copy of the Service Manual?  Page 1-15 in General Information gives the specification for the Denso spark plugs that most of us use.  If you want to go Iridium all you need to do is cross reference from the original spec Denso plug.  

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3 hours ago, airdog84 said:

Hi, What do you mean by replace the O rings on the coolant connections to the water jacket? 

- Are these lyrics to a song LOL

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1998/vfr800fi-a-interceptor/water-pump

 

16, 17, 18... 17 and 18 would require you to pull the throttle body first, so it's worth doing them if you're going to do hoses... While you're at it, do a thermostat too. I personally wouldn't open that can of worms unless I was ready to do it all. If it's running and you want to get some saddle time, I'd save it for winter if they aren't leaking. It's definitely old enough that it's worth doing, but it's the kind of thing that might take some time your first time. 

 

Also, I've revised my opinion on silicone hoses. They look pretty, but I have had more troubles with stubborn drips than rubber has ever given me. YMMV, some people are very happy with them. I tried them and have gone back to rubber. 

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The engine should not require flushing, unless it has been run with plain water, in which case you would want an acidic flush.

 

Coolant flush does not require any parts replacement. Radiator filler is on top of right radiator just needs the right fairing panel removed to access it. To drain the system there is a drain bolt on the water pump housing on bottom left side of engine, remove the left fairing panel. There is also a cylinder block drain bolt on the front cylinder bank.

 

Use the main drain on the pump to start then loosen the rad cap, when that stops draining, open the one on the front block. Nip both back up, add your flushing fluid via the rad cap, run engine to push flushing agent around & remove air bubbles, top up rad & replace the cap. Remember to empty the expansion tank too.  Follow flushing agent instructions, remember to leave to cool before opening rad cap. Then drain & refill with Anti Freeze & distilled water mix to the correct ratio. Repeat run to remove air, top up the rad replace cap, add coolant to the expansion bottle.

 

As for plugs, just buy a set of NGK Iridium replacements & they will be the last plugs you ever buy.

 

Have fun 

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