exwifeschewtoy Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 It is supposed to rain all day so I took apart my clutch and it looks real good. My plates are all within specs.....about 2.8-3-0 ish. My steel plates are all non warped and have no discoloration. Some slight scratch markes here and there. Springs are all within specs but they vary between 46.1 and 46.4 so I want to change them for the variance anyway. I have EBC springs here - 66lb? and Barnett green springs here - 82lb. I am also going to scuff up both sides of the steel plates with 300 grit sandpaper. Is this an ok plan? thanks Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exwifeschewtoy Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 Ok, clutch back together and the handle pull on the green Barrett 82lb springs is not bad at all. I will know after I ride in traffic for an hour but then I sit at lights with my bike in neutral so I can stretch my back and rest my throttle hand so I don't need an easy clutch. I am aware that it is safer to leave my bike in 1st, but I'm not interested in safety as much as a happy back. I can't imagine paying someone to do this or any other maintenance on the bike. Even it it were free to take to the dealer I would do it myself. Having to drop it off and leave it for days and then get a ride back to pick it up.....no thanks. I won't be able to ride it today as it is raining out so I will update later. I have the sprockets and chain to do next anyway. I am gonna run to Harbor freight and pick up a cheap grinder to remove the old chain. I don't want to stress my chain breaker rivet tool. I am also gonna bleed the clutch a little to make sure no air got into the system. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted May 30, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 30, 2018 The reason people break chain tools is because they try to break factory rivets with them ! They are only designed to work on the soft rivet link joint, so find that and all should be good ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exwifeschewtoy Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 7 hours ago, Mohawk said: The reason people break chain tools is because they try to break factory rivets with them ! They are only designed to work on the soft rivet link joint, so find that and all should be good ! ok, I got it off and the new chain on and it went on fine but it is a bitch to flare the tips. I got them flared to 5.4mm which is what the other links are so I think that is good. I went to test drive the bike cause it dried up outside and my clutch is not dis engaging all the way. I pulled in the clutch and put it in first gear and the bike is moving forward. Any thoughts? thanks Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted May 31, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 31, 2018 7 hours ago, exwifeschewtoy said: ok, I got it off and the new chain on and it went on fine but it is a bitch to flare the tips. I got them flared to 5.4mm which is what the other links are so I think that is good. Hi Joel. As the master link plate is an interferanced fit, the pins do not need a lot of flaring. I firstly measure with a Caliper the width of the chain plates, then set the master link plates to that measurement. I measure the diameter of the master link pin and compare that to the amount of flairing for each master link pin. From memory the box your chain came in will advise on the amount of Master Link pin flare, but suffice to say, over flairing will possibly split the flair recess of the master link pin and further press the plate tighter against the o rings. You only need the slightest enlargement to ensure a good rivet of your Master Link. Rivetting to the same diameter as the other chain pins may not be wise, don't think their end diameters are meant to be the same as the master link. For the rivet process I find it easiest to work over the rear sprocket. Position the master link over the top area of the rear sprocket. Set your rivet tool with the U shape resting on top of the chain facing rearwards, you can now apply plenty of force as you wind the riveter clockwise and the body of the riveter will be solid against the chain and sprocket. See pic below. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Yep, tell me about it....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted May 31, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 31, 2018 14 minutes ago, Veefer800Canuck said: Yep, tell me about it....... Oops. That's a bummer, it's also a great photo, good one for Joel to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exwifeschewtoy Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 10 hours ago, Grum said: Hi Joel. As the master link plate is an interferanced fit, the pins do not need a lot of flaring. I firstly measure with a Caliper the width of the chain plates, then set the master link plates to that measurement. I measure the diameter of the master link pin and compare that to the amount of flairing for each master link pin. From memory the box your chain came in will advise on the amount of Master Link pin flare, but suffice to say, over flairing will possibly split the flair recess of the master link pin and further press the plate tighter against the o rings. You only need the slightest enlargement to ensure a good rivet of your Master Link. Rivetting to the same diameter as the other chain pins may not be wise, don't think their end diameters are meant to be the same as the master link. For the rivet process I find it easiest to work over the rear sprocket. Position the master link over the top area of the rear sprocket. Set your rivet tool with the U shape resting on top of the chain facing rearwards, you can now apply plenty of force as you wind the riveter clockwise and the body of the riveter will be solid against the chain and sprocket. See pic below. Cheers. Thanks for the tips. I too used the center rear sprocket to stabilize the link. I went ahead and ordered another master link of ebay for my chain model number. I had no problem doing each step but I found out that when you use the anvil it also turns the inner bolt some and what it did was crush one of my o-rings and left a longer tip to flare on the bottom and a normal 1mm tip to flare on the top. It may be fine but it will bug the shit out of me every time I go on the freeway. Thanks for setting me straight on flaring on the side of caution and not trying to match the other links. I will just flare enough that that there is no way it is coming off.....In theory it shouldn't need much as it doesn't carry any weight it just holds the side on, which shouldn't need much to accomplish that. thanks Joel Still glad I ordered the Promotion tool and am doing this myself instead of paying someone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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