Hainzy Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Howdy Anyone know if unplugging the ECU wipes the HISS Key info? Since the ECU, HISS Reciever, and Clocks were disconnected the bike will not start. I can switch the igntion on, clocks work and engine cranks. However, the fuel pump does not prime. I have checked the kill switch, bike does not crank when off. I have also noted the HISS light remains off when the ignition is turned on, sure it used to be lite up for a few seconds before. Any suggestions??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hainzy Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Forgot to mention, it's a VFR800-A9 Vtec ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer boOZZIE Posted March 30, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2017 Have you had the fuel tank up? If so check the fuel pump wires are properly connected, a couple of weeks ago mine needed the wires pushed back in. Also 30 amp A Main fuse and wires/connections Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hainzy Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Checked all connectors, they look good and clean (or cleaned).Not sure it would be the Main Fuse as the bike is cranking, everything seems to work excpet the Fuel Pump.I'm thinking it's the HISS system, the light in the Tacho is only on when the ignition is off and I'm pretty sure it should be lit for a few moments as the HISS Reciever sends the message to the ECU.As I said, the ECU and Clocks had been removed from the bike, as had the HISS Reciever as I repainted the Top Yoke/Tree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted March 31, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 31, 2017 Hi Hainzy. If the HISS is not happy with the key transponder or any other fault in its system, you will have no fuel prime and your HISS light will be permanently on. Have you tried your spare key? Is there anything else on your key ring, like some other transponder key, this will confuse the system. Unplugging the ECU should not upset the HISS system as key codes are stored in non volatile memory. The HISS light should illuminate for approx 2 seconds at switch on, if it remains on then there is a fault with the key or the system. Have you checked the 4P connector to the HISS transponder at the ignition switch? Also confirm you can hear an audible click for the Engine Stop Relay energising when you turn ignition to on. With ignition on flip your kill switch on and off you should hear the relay click on and off. If NOT, did you disturb the wiring to the Bank Angle Sensor when removing clocks and immobiliser wiring? I've never disconnected the ECU, but there are 2ea 26pin OR 33pin plugs a gray and a black. Is there any chance they could've been plugged into the wrong sockets on the ECU - would hope they are keyed so this can't happen! The ECU provides the controlling ground for the Fuel Cut Relay provided the HISS is happy. The ECU also provides the controlling ground for the HISS light. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loftust Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Disconnecting the ECU does not wipe the HISS. Mine was sat in a shed for several months and worked upon refitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Woodie Posted March 31, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 31, 2017 Does this have an alarm fitted as well? after changing an engine I had similar issues. Frustration set in and I ripped the alarm out and hey presto... spark and fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hainzy Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Have you tried your spare key? Is there anything else on your key ring, like some other transponder key, this will confuse the system. Unplugging the ECU should not upset the HISS system as key codes are stored in non volatile memory. Yes tried the spare key and the same, no HISS light with ignition on which I am told means the same as the HISS light remaining on for fault diagnosis reasons. The HISS light should illuminate for approx 2 seconds at switch on, if it remains on then there is a fault with the key or the system. Have you checked the 4P connector to the HISS transponder at the ignition switch?Just ran a multimeter over connection, "+" on the Yellow/Red and "-" on the - Battery. There is no power running into the HISS Reciever, I think this is the issue but don't know why no power. ? Also confirm you can hear an audible click for the Engine Stop Relay Where is this relay? I can here the Headlight Lo Relay clicking, and Relay under the seat when starter button depressed. Did you disturb the wiring to the Bank Angle Sensor when removing clocks and immobiliser wiring? Yes, all connected still and cleaned. I've never disconnected the ECU, but there are 2ea 26pin OR 33pin plugs a gray and a black. Is there any chance they could've been plugged into the wrong sockets on the ECU - would hope they are keyed so this can't happen! Grey-Grey and Black-Black ?No power to the HISS Reciever, think this is the issue as the Fuel Pump won't prime unless HISS is happy and the ECU isn't sending power to allow the HISS to deactivate.No additional security on the bike, all connectors are in good clean order and no obvious sign on wire damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hainzy Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Just ran a multimeter over connection, "+" on the Yellow/Red and "-" on the - Battery. There is no power running into the HISS Reciever, I think this is the issue but don't know why no power. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted March 31, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 31, 2017 Hainzy. Have you verified that your main 30a Fuse B is O.K.??? This feeds 12v to the Engine Stop Relay, then supplying the Fuel Cut Relay and 12volts to the ECU (ECU plug A pin 4 Black/White wire). Verify you have 12v at ECU plug A pin 4 Black/White with Ignition ON. Even if this is blown you can still crank the engine as starting power is from a different circuit as well as your instrument panel power. I only have the circuit diagram for the U version being Australia not the E version for United Kingdom, just hoping this area of the electrics are the same! If no 12v at the ECU and the main 30a Fuse B is O.K you need to make sure the Engine Stop relay is operating correctly, you should hear it click with ignition on as you operate your kill switch on and off, you need to find this relay as the Fuel Cut relay will also be clicking. Appears to be located in the left upper cowl area. You may need to start back probing the ECU to ensure all grounds are there, as the 5v power for the immobiliser (Yellow/Red wire) is generated from the ECU. Have you downloaded or have a Service Manual? Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted April 9, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted April 9, 2017 Hi Hainzy. Any news yet, keen to know the outcome - if there is one. Hope you're on the road again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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