Corey Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 1998 VFR Throttle Body Tubing Parts Fiche http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/oem-parts/honda/1998/interceptor-_-vfr800fi/throttle-body-tubing The vacuum tubing on my throttle bodies are looking pretty rough. They are taking on an orange color, are a bit grimey and they are losing flexibility and becoming hard. I figure I should probably replace them. I am trying to figure out how to order replacement parts, but am a bit confused. I need parts 6, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 18, 21 and 22. I realize that 6,7 21 and 22 have custom bends and are individual parts. However the rest of the tubing is listed as "bulk hose" and all share the same part number BULK HOSE, VACUUM (3.5X1000)OE 95005-35001-20M $5.68. Does any body know if I need to order each part number? Do they come as little pieces? Or do I just need to order one of them because they will come in a long enough length to cut ALL the smaller pieces? Also, what is the best way to install these? Just remove the old one and clamp on the new ones? I am sure this is a stupid question, but I honestly don't fully know how this all works. Does removing them have any effect on the pressurized fuel lines that are still connected? One final question. How do I go about syncing the starter valves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRicer Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 you're on the right track. i personally would order the little guys with the custom bends, then just get a bunch of 3.5mm hose from napa or something and cut your own. other wise you could add up all the lengths and as long as they are under 1000mm (100cm) you can just cut from that bulk part number. regarding install, just drain your coolant and you should be good. i like to use a little Magnalube green grease on the ends just to get a good seal under the clamp, but probably isnt necissary. regarding syncing valves...... i'm sure someone on here will post about that... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Starter valve synch: Do you have a service manual? It has a procedure for this. Download here (assuming this is still active?) http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/files/file/171-98-01-honda-vfr-service-manual-optimized-bookmarked/ There are some threads in this forum with pictures. The below one may be a 6th gen, so there may be some differences with our 5th gen. A sensitive tach for setting the final idle and a four column manometer are needed. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/33-starter-valve-syncronization-vtec/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllWeather Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 If you have a power commander you can use the P/Commander user interface on the laptop / pc to set the idle a lot more accurately than the factory tacho whilst balancing the starter valves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted November 20, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted November 20, 2015 As long as you can get to those hoses, you won't be disturbing the fuel system. If you're removing the TB to do this, you'll have to disconnect the fuel line anyway. Not a big deal. As long as you have it apart, have you considered having the injectors professionally cleaned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 Quite honestly I wasn't intending to replace anything or service anything on the throttle bodies, but they vacuum tubes didn't look so good. I was hoping I could just keep the fuel lines connected while I replace the vacuum tubes. Is this possible? I am hesitant to even touch the pressurized fuel lines because I don't know how they work or what I am doing and I don't want to screw anything up. Plus I have a lot of gas in the tank. In regards to the injectors...I briefly considered it but then decided against it for four reasons. 1). I haven't experienced any problems with them as far as I can tell. 2). I don't like the idea of sending off parts of my bike that I'm not certain I can replace. 3). I can be impatient when it comes to waiting for certain things. 4). I don't like the idea of messing with anything that has a wire to it. I hate electrical issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted November 20, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted November 20, 2015 The fuel line connects to the TB with a banjo bolt - all you'd need are new crush washers to re-install it. If there's pressure in the system a towel wrapped around it to catch any fuel that escapes is all you'd need (but probably a good idea to siphon out the fuel first). On the 6th gen the injectors are easier to get to than on a '98. Mine was just a couple of years old and under 10,000 miles when I pulled them out. The flow report came back that one had only a "fair" flow pattern - the other 3 "good". Once they were cleaned, the low rpm throttle response was improved and any stumbling or hesitation gone. After 15+ years there's probably gum and varnish built up in them that degrades performance and smoothness. Not a huge deal, but at the margin it can be an improvement. It costs around $100. They're ususally on ebay if you ever needed to replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 All the info is very helpful. Thanks. Do the vacuum tubes on the throttle bodies have something something to do with coolant? If I fill the system with coolant to pressure test my coolant hoses will I still be able to swap out the throttle body vacuum tubes? (I just got through changing all of my coolant hoses but have yet to pressure test them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted November 20, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted November 20, 2015 On the 98/99, the coolant is separate from the vacuum lines and throttle bodies. On the 00-01, there is a coolant line which passes through the wax unit which controls cold fast idle. The 98/99 models don't have/need this as they have a manual fast idle lever on the handlebar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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