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Clutch Gripping Whilst Lever Pulled In


VIFFR

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I'm sure all I need to do is bleed the clutch but I'd thought I'd ask anyway.

With the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in, if I rev the bike to 4000rpm it will start creeping forward.

The clutch is a Barnet kevlar heavy duty unit with ebc heavy duty Springs.

I've had it in for about a year with no issue. 70,000kms on the bike.

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  • Member Contributer

Could be, but why all of the sudden would air be introduced to the system? Could be the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt, or the slave cylinder. Flush and bleed is the easiest first step.

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Could be, but why all of the sudden would air be introduced to the system? Could be the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt, or the slave cylinder. Flush and bleed is the easiest first step.

Agreed

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But here's how to check your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift
smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...

4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...
does this action drag down the engine rpms???

If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...

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But here's how to check your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift

smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...

4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...

does this action drag down the engine rpms???

If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever

knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch

drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check

for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling

and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...

Good write up Thank you. I'll be home in Saturday. I'll do that then and report back. Cheers!
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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I've drained the system and flushed it. I thought I'd got all the bubbles or if the lines but there must be more in there. After a litre of brake fluid going though the system is still dragging. Worse now I think. Ffs.

I can see signs of a small leak by the slave cylinder. I really need the bike this week then I was going to get it to a shop and sorry it all out. However I've run out of time and brake fluid.

I'll get some syringes and try reverse flagging the system to see if I can get any bubbles out that way.

Could it be another issue? Something in the clutch basket broken or sticking? Is got fairly new clutch and Springs. All top quality so I'd be suprised if something has gone South. However it does happen.

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  • Member Contributer

I would try pulling in your clutch lever and wrap a tie wrap aound the handle grip. If you have a puddle under your slave in the morning or shortly after, the slave seal is leaking...it's the only place the fluid can come from is past the seal....easy job to do but hard to do without a new seal.....good luck

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OK great thanks. I'll order new parts to do that anyway. There was fluid residue under the slave cylinder and when I wiped it off the paint came with it.

I'm away with work for the next 9-10 days and don't know if I'll get any days of after that.

If I make a few sales with this trip I'll just take it to the shop. I'm getting lazy.

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