Member Contributer MadScientist Posted March 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 5, 2015 As the title states, I'm going to pick up an ultrasonic cleaner while I've got an ebay promo. Unfortunately, it doesn't include anything in the "Business and Industrial" or "eBay Motors" categories, which sucks. There are some models in the "Watches and Jewelry" category though. Anyone have thoughts on the following models? (Sorry, I'm not entirely sure on rules of eBay linking, since I'm not trying to advertise anything here. If its a no-no, just PM me and I will edit them out.) If anyone has any specific models they like, feel free to recommend. I would like if it is big enough to hold a carburetor, and I don't do overseas shipping (N.A. please). 60W 1.4L, Item# 380131255818 $60 70W 2L, Item# 221271365621 $109 200W 3L Item# 111012152908 $195 110W 3L Item#191274344323 $135 205W 3L Item# 141461105347 $121 Thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted March 6, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2015 Ended up getting the 6L version of item #191274344323. Should be here by next week thursday. If anyone cares, I'll post a mini-review in this thread. I have access to Fisher Scientific versa-clean at work and will probably try that first. It isn't much more than low sudsing dish detergent (cocamide DEA and alcohol ethoxylate). The product data sheet explicitly indicates that it is safe on aluminum and in ultrasonic cleaners. I'll probably try 30:1 dilution to start. Stay tuned... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted March 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2015 I have a 1.4L unit similar to the first in your list. I've had it for 6 years & use it to clean ammo cases & other items. I use a 50/50 mix of white vinegar & water, with a skirt of car wash (no salt !) to act a degreaser. 3 minutes will do ammo, if you presoak other items that will reduce the time for other objects. use carb cleaner to clean carbs, again a good presoak will make it quicker. Remember to rinse in clean water before allowing to dry, you can use an oven to rapid dry but keep the temps low to avoid damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 When you say clean water, do you mean distilled or is tap water good enough? I have a cheapie Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner that I bought for my wife to use on her jewelry and she has never opened it. Figured I would use it for something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted March 6, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2015 I would use distilled water for a final rinse (like we do with lab ware) if I was going to let the items air dry. If towel drying, I wouldn't bother. It also depends on the concentration of dissolved salts in your tap water and how many small cavities are in the item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2015 . use carb cleaner to clean carbs, again a good presoak will make it quicker. the whole point of using an ultrasonic cleaner is to avoid using harsh chems.. if your going to use carb cleaner just use a reusable gallon of "gunk carb dip " and save your money on the machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted March 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2015 Carb cleaner is NOT harsh to carbs, only to fuel residue. If you need ultrasonic cleaning on carb internals then that will not be enough to remove varnish & gum. A soak in carb cleaner then UC in carb cleaner will work wonders on the internals. If it just external or just for general cleaning the best tip I have seen & I use is road traffic film cleaner, it destroys dirt, spray on wait a little wash off, clean ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2015 Carb cleaner is NOT harsh to carbs, only to fuel residue. If you need ultrasonic cleaning on carb internals then that will not be enough to remove varnish & gum. A soak in carb cleaner then UC in carb cleaner will work wonders on the internals. If it just external or just for general cleaning the best tip I have seen & I use is road traffic film cleaner, it destroys dirt, spray on wait a little wash off, clean ! REALLY ?? being a motorcycle tech for 20 years and owning a bicycle shop as a teenager along with the words " carb cleaner " i never thought of that!! and after all those carb write ups i have done... ARE YOU CRAZY???? carb cleaner is TOXIC!!!! thats why it has warning signs all over it!! for god sakes man, why do you think it burns when you leave it on your skin?? the point of the ultra sonic CLEANER it to CLEAN WITHOUT THE USE OF HARSH CHEMICALS!!! PEROID!! they clean entire engines in HUGE set ups with out using ANY non biodegradable cleaner!! thats the damned point.!! either use one or the other! your wasting youre time using both !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted March 6, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2015 Oh don't get me wrong, just because I want it big enough for a carb (or bank of carbs), doesn't mean that is the only thing I intend to use it for. #1 on my shit list is a sticky VNT system on my Golf TDI. People have had great results using ultrasonic to clean the diesel carbon and crap out of the hot side housing of the VNT-15 turbocharger. Also have a pile of brake system parts, ammo cases, etc... Additionally, I can use this indoors without filling the basement with hydrocarbons, since working outside in the WI winter is not my idea of fun or relaxing. I couldn't even count the number of cans of carb and brake cleaner that have evaporated out of my garage over the years. gll429, I assume you've used an ultrasonic to clean carbs, got any suggestions on what chemicals/detergents to use? There are about a million different concoctions given by people with various levels of experience on the internet, and I know you've been in the trade for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2015 i have used the cleaner, however.. the stuff added was in a HUGE 50 gallon drum and marked over.. it was "add 2 big schoops of this and add all the the parts to the tank via the sky hook " so no damned clue what works best.. sorry. the shop literally hung parts from an over head rack via coat hangers so no basket was needed.. i tried using a "large" harbor freight model.. with their cleaner.. it didnt do anything...i mean NOTHING to a single rebel carb.. so scratch them off your list. as for the diesel stuff. yep!! the right tank and cleaner will make your parts look like new! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted March 30, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2015 Well, I'm bringing this back up like I said I would. After a few dozen loads of brake and clutch system parts, a bank of CB600 carbs, an airbrush, and just about anything else dirty that I could fit into it. I will say that I'm impressed. I knew going in that the heater built on to these things sucks, so I was preheating it on the stove, then pouring it in...of course the first time the pan slipped and I poured scalding hot water all over my legs... The machine has no trouble keeping it at 50C, as long as the lid is on. My only real gripe with the machine is that the basket sits on the bottom, rather than hangs from the top edge. This doesn't take much effort to rectify with a couple pieces of scrap metal. As far as cleaning carbs. I cleaned them as well as I could with aeorsol carb cleaner, copper wires, and an air compressor, then I plopped them into the US. Note that I did disassemble almost everything (float, needles, jets, and emulsion tubes removed) before cleaning. Still a TON of crap came out of the carbs. I couldn't believe how much. I might have seen better results if I had soaked the carbs in one of those gallon jugs of carb cleaner, but then I would have had to separate the 4 carbs. For detergent I was running a mixture of dilute Purple Power (20:1) and a non-foaming detergent made for cleaning labware (60:1). I would not recommend that most people mix any detergents unless you have the knowledge, you can end up generating byproducts that are hazardous to your health or the items you are cleaning. I did use just dilute Purple Power (20:1) for some things, but I would definitely not use it full strength on non-ferrous metals or coated surfaces. If you use Purple Power, I would suggest trying it out on some test pieces before you clean something valuable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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