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Anyone Refilled A Vtec Abs Rear Shock?


whitelightning

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I recently bought a used ABS rear shock, and it came without the banjo bolt installed (Not nice of the seller to keep that bit of info to himself, but spilt milk now). Has anyone ever refilled their shock, and if so, how much work was it/how did you do it? Or, am I just sitting on a paperweight? There's a place near my house that buys bikes and strips them out for parts where I got a banjo bolt from, now just hoping I can make it all work.

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Yes, that is what I'm talking about. I'm not certain if I have all the parts, the person that took it apart apparently didn't keep all of them. Not sure what all parts are supposed to be there besides the banjo bolt, crush washers etc... I do have the pre-load adjuster, shock, collar, and line.

I presume that you had to refill the hose for the adjuster as well since it was detached, that way you aren't trying to adjust using air in the line. What did you use for that?

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Check out parts fiche
http://www.buymotorcycleparts.com/honda_parts.htm#/Honda/VFR800A_AC_(04)_MOTORCYCLE,_JPN,_VIN#_JH2RC464-4M600001/REAR_SHOCK_ABSORBER_(ABS)/VFR800A-04-JPN-AC/2Y14MCW2MCW4F2701AB

If you have all parts. You can refill adjuster with hydraulic fluid. I used fork oil. Or use transmission fluid. The trick is to push the plunger in and refill to get all the air out.

I connected hose to adjuster, sealed the outside of the hose to the adjuster with RTV silicone, let dry, hold adjuster high, bolt head up, remove banjo bolt, fill with fluid, topped off with eye dropper and inserted the banjo bolt. Install adjuster to bike frame.

If plastic knob is removed from adjuster make sure not to loose the small round metal ball and spring for the clicker.

When done, to adjust. There will be a few turns of free play on the adjuster. The better you fill it the less free play. To adjust turn adjuster until there is Resistance then start counting turns to adjust.

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So you did not do anything to get the air out of the adjuster hose? Or did you find that fluid did not drain from the small opening once the hose was disconnected from the banjo bolt? Here is a pic of the hole in question that fills the adjuster hose...

2013-02-02_13-43-45_414_zpsf5aa7e5f.jpg

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My hose was not drained. I would try to fill it with an eye dropper or syringe, let it sit end up so hopefully the air works its way to the top and fill. It could be a tedious job to get it filled. It will work better if all the air is out. Good luck.

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We don't have the ABS option in AUS so we don't get the standard shock with preload adjuster so have never seen one to answer the question fully.

But I have repaired a number of aftermarket shocks with hydraulic preload adjuster. Normally the remote preload adjuster that you turn has an extra port so you can fill system so with spring tension wound completely off you need to connect to the port with a line & start filling with oil making sure other components are bellow each other so gravity will fill & bleed air to the port your filling. If you don't have a line to screw into port some clear hose jammed in will work & do a temp seal with some silicon around hose & outside of port that you can simply clean off later. The remote preload adjuster should be positioned level so no high spots above port so a bench vice is good & let other components hang lower. Trick is leave over night or longer to bleed air & the trick is with port open when you think air is out just carefully turn remote adjuster inwards you should see oil rising in tube straight away & then carefully add more oil as you wind it back watching oil return in line. You really need all the air out or adjuster will be useless as heat will effect adjustment.

If there is no filler port on remote adjuster suspension techs will drill & tap one to rebuild it is more or less impossible to fill system & remove all air without connecting line as both remote adjuster & shock mounted adjuster need to be connected together to remove all air.

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The trick is to push the plunger in and refill to get all the air out.

Yep, that is the tough part. If you don't get all of the air out it will still work, just with limited range of movement.

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  • 9 months later...

If plastic knob is removed from adjuster make sure not to loose the small round metal ball and spring for the clicker.

I lost the ball bearing and the spring. Can someone tell me where I can get these? Maybe someone can tell me the size of the ball bearing and the spring?

Thanks,

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The trick is to push the plunger in and refill to get all the air out.

Yep, that is the tough part. If you don't get all of the air out it will still work, just with limited range of movement.

If plastic knob is removed from adjuster make sure not to loose the small round metal ball and spring for the clicker.

I lost the ball bearing and the spring. Can someone tell me where I can get these? Maybe someone can tell me the size of the ball bearing and the spring?

Thanks,

You need to email this guy or his web site

http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/

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The trick is to push the plunger in and refill to get all the air out.

Yep, that is the tough part. If you don't get all of the air out it will still work, just with limited range of movement.

If plastic knob is removed from adjuster make sure not to loose the small round metal ball and spring for the clicker.

I lost the ball bearing and the spring. Can someone tell me where I can get these? Maybe someone can tell me the size of the ball bearing and the spring?

Thanks,

You need to email this guy or his web site

http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/

Thanks,

I was able to locate a ball bearing that works. I still only get 20 something clicks from the point I feel resistance. Manual says there should be 36. I believe if I move the plunger and top with a little more fork oil i will get to 36 clicks with resistance.

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Well, that is the problem with hydraulic adjusters in general - they offer a limited range of spring preload adjustment. With some effort you can make some improvements, but in general you should accept this limitation as part of the deal.

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