Primo Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Okay, for those of you who have completed this project, I bought a Motad header for my 5th Gen and have heard stories of the difficulty in getting it fitted correctly. What is the correct order to get this thing installed? Front cylinders first? Rear? One of each? extension tubes? Please give me some advice so I can get it right the first time. Thanks as always, Primo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 2 Rear short pipes first, leave them a tad loose so they can be shifted by hand slightly. Snug, but not tight. Fit the fronts, and raise up into position, slightly tighten the front studs, leaving them room to move still, then begin aligning the gaskets and clamps near the RH footpeg with the short pipes from the rear cylinders. I used a wheeled floor jack and a block of wood under the headers to manipulate them upwards while I carefully aligned them. When the rear tubes are fully inserted into the gasket/clamp area (jacking the headers up as fas as necessary) tighten the joints at all the cylinder heads, then the clamps by the RH footpeg, but don't release the jack until absolutely last. Use a torque wrench on the nuts at the cylinders, you don't want to snap those off. Check the FSM for spec. Keep alternating on all of them until they do not move at the specified torque. Tightening them just 1x each won't do, as the gaskets crush quite a bit and you'll have a leak later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primo Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 Exactly the information I was hoping for. Thank you so much Veefer. I would much rather do things once and your information will definitely help. Thanks again, Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 You are in excellent hands with that advice... there's another recent thread on removing them around here somewhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaindriven Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Hi. Just done that job and would like to say that I found no problem in fitting the front pipes first then the rear fitted to the front and then to the rear heads lightly support underneath , evenly tighten all port studs this will dictate rear pipes to front clamps as for tension of studs you should feel the gaskets being seated then there is no point in tensioning furthering I.e. that the point where the stud could strain and break job done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 as for tension of studs you should feel the gaskets being seated then there is no point in tensioning furthering I.e. that the point where the stud could strain and break job done Which is why I said to use a torque wrench and not to exceed the recommended value. But you do get more movement of the fasteners if you alternate between them, still keeping to the recommended torque spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 This is a wonderful thread, I am going to have to bookmark it for my use when I put mine back on. Thanks for starting the thread and thanks Veefer for the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primo Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Okay, for those interested, the Motad header from David Silver Spares comes with two gaskets for the rear short pipes and two clamps for the same. I hit up Mason City Honda (Keith is the best) for the four copper port gaskets as well as a new gasket and clamp for the silencer. Since I have a PC V I have no use for the bungs on the header so I purchased a pair of oil drain plugs and locked them into place. The header itself shines like chrome and I was unsure if I was going to do anything with it as far as coating or wrap. Well, since my right shin seems to get very warm in the summer months I decided I would just wrap the rear pipes and the short ones. I used the DEI Titanium header wrap. I bought 25ft off of Ebay for $25 and it was the perfect amount for what I wanted to do. The whole header, I think you would be closer to 75ft but maybe I didn't space it far enough. I bought a bunch of all stainless hose clamps to keep it all in place. I enlisted my wife to help as it is much easier to get the wrap tight with two people. This particular wrap does not require wetting or painting so we will see the results. I can always take it off if I'm not happy right? Pictures will be posted. It's 6 degrees here today so I have yet to venture out to the garage to start the unassembly procedure. The bike had been stripped naked for another project (Gear Indicator) so that part is done. Just need to remove the old Staintune, spray the heck out of the exhaust bolts with my can of PB Blaster and get to it. I will keep you all informed as the job progresses. Thanks again for the advice! Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primo Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 Okay, so I'm a slacker. No pictures yet - I know - I suck! but I thought I would give an update on the Motad header install on my 2000. I wish I had documented mine but I am not all that patient. So here is the deal. Removal was a piece of cake except the bolts on the rear cylinders are a bit tricky to get to. PB Blaster the night before and everything came right off. So, I decided on the Motad to wrap just the rear section - the small pipes and the lower ones. I tend to get a hot shin in the summer months and hope this will help.I ditched the center stand. I have a rear stand from my last Ducati and just needed to buy the correct size pin so this was a no brainer. I only really use the center stand in the garage anyway. The new header lined up better than I expected. i attached the short pipes in the back first, leaving them loose and then the fronts on the header - also loose. I used a floor jack under the header to lift until the short pipes were seated fully into the rear header pipes. I borrowed an inch lb torque wrench from my local Auto Zone and torqued all the header bolts to 9 ft lbs in a few stages. Then i tightened the header to rear pipe clamps. It all went fairly smoothly. The biggest issue I had was lining up the single bolt for my high Staintune with the rear foot peg. I had to completely loosen the foot peg bracket and tweak them all in. Not a big deal. I have not had the bike out yet as I installed a gear indicator, changed my oil and now need to reassemble the bodywork but I will say that it appears quite a bit louder with the new header. No leaks so I am a happy guy. I will try and snap a pic or two of the finished product. Sorry for lack of photos.Primo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted April 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 9, 2013 For the mechanical midgets like me, do you use anti-sieze on the studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 For the mechanical midgets like me, do you use anti-sieze on the studs? I did on mine. They've been fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayv3 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Yes, the silver or copper stuff works great. I use it at work when reassembling exhaust or chassis parts on cars/trucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted April 10, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 10, 2013 For the mechanical midgets like me, do you use anti-sieze on the studs? Doc, don't know about your ST but the muffler clamps and bolts on mine were pretty well past their prime. At some point a previous owner had snapped one due to it being seized. I replaced both clamps and all four bolts with shiny new Honda parts and liberally coated the bolts with anti seize. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted April 10, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 10, 2013 Yeah, when I loosened the mufflers to check the rear pads on the ST, they were seized up pretty good. I avoided snapping off or stripping somehow. Used anti-seize when put back together. For the mechanical midgets like me, do you use anti-sieze on the studs? Doc, don't know about your ST but the muffler clamps and bolts on mine were pretty well past their prime. At some point a previous owner had snapped one due to it being seized. I replaced both clamps and all four bolts with shiny new Honda parts and liberally coated the bolts with anti seize. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.