Member Contributer mk2davis Posted January 11, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2013 Someone please give me some false confidence. I am sending my rear shock so Jamie, but I feel like I should be able to handle the front myself. I did read several threads about this, and this is what I plan on doing. I'm 180 pounds in my b-day suit. I plan on using BR's 30 minute fork oil change technique, with .95 RT springs (assuming I can find them) and 10 weight fork oil. First, does this sound right? Secondly, are the shims used to compensate for the shorting spring? What is the best thing to use? I've heard PVC, but it seems like there should be something better. It seems pretty straight forward, someone please tell me if I'm wrong. If you can't tell, this will be my first fork rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I am going to be doing the same thing to my /93. I just received my .90 springs from Sonic Springs this week. The springs come in a kit with instructions ,washers, and also pvc pipe to make any necessary spacers as the springs are shorter than stock . They cost 79.95 plus s&h and were awsome to deal with. I weigh 165 without gear and from everything Ive read figured that would be a good rate.Just waiting for the temps to rise a little before hitting the garage. Good luck with your mods! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted January 11, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2013 Where did you buy yours from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Got them from Sonic Springs . You can buy online at sonicsprings.com . They have .95 springs at 79.95 plus s&h in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted January 11, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2013 It sounds like that's the right rate for me. Keep us informed on your progress. You might get yours done before I do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted January 11, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2013 And stupid follow up question: The manual lists fork oil capacity at 383cc's. So this means I don't have to concern myself with the oil level as long as I use the right amount of oil, right? I ask this because the manual lists the oil level at 6.89 inches I assume from the bottom of the fork. Clarification would be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted January 11, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2013 I did the almost exact same thing except I had Jamie provide me with the shims and springs for the forks. I used the BR method to avoid having to remove the forks from the bike. Fork oil height is taken from the top of the fork, not the bottom. Provided you have all the right tools, it is really an uneventful procedure. If you're planning on not removing the forks from the bike, you will need a stand or some other method of securing the front off the ground. I ended up putting eye hooks in the ceiling of my garage and used some heavy duty ratcheting tie downs to hold the front end up. I also used the center stand to help support the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Someone please give me some false confidence. I am sending my rear shock so Jamie, but I feel like I should be able to handle the front myself. I did read several threads about this, and this is what I plan on doing. I'm 180 pounds in my b-day suit.I plan on using BR's 30 minute fork oil change technique, with .95 RT springs (assuming I can find them) and 10 weight fork oil. First, does this sound right? Secondly, are the shims used to compensate for the shorting spring? What is the best thing to use? I've heard PVC, but it seems like there should be something better. It seems pretty straight forward, someone please tell me if I'm wrong. If you can't tell, this will be my first fork rebuild. How many miles are on the bike? It might be worth the extra effort to pull the forks off and completely disassemble. Then you can inspect the bushing, install new seals, etc. More work, but you would then be set for a while. New springs normally come with metal tubing to use as the spacers. You just have to measure and cut to length. I just had Jamie go through my shock and forks over Christmas. I normally do the seals and fluid myself, but wanted him to go through the valving in the AK-20 cartridges, so just had him do everything for me. I pulled out .95 springs and put in heavier ones for my weight. The .95's are listed in the classifieds if you are interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted January 11, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2013 My bike has 38k miles. there has to be something I am not getting because the manual lists the oil level at 6.89 inches, which is 350mm +/-. I see everyone else here (granted for later gens) talking about an oil level of 100-130mm. Three times the air volumn seems unusual. Wera, do you know if 6th gen springs are interchangible with a 3rd gen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Wera, do you know if 6th gen springs are interchangible with a 3rd gen? Mine are actually out of my 5th gen. 41 mm forks, so I "think" they are the same as your '91 (might just need different length spacers). I'm sure RaceTech or Traxxion could verify that for you though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Got my springs and oil changed out on the weekend. Have not ridden it yet but can definitely feen the difference in setting up the sag and just rolling it off the centre stand. Does not dive near as much . Used the .90 springs and 10w Maxima fork oil set at 140 mm height from top with tubes bottomed and springs out . Factory height is 178mm and JD says he uses 120mm which seemed quite high from stock so I will split the difference and see how it works.Have front static sag at 25mm and rear static at 15mm. had no helper at the time so I am not sure of rider sag yet but should be in the ball park. Unfortunately won't be able to ride it to see how it feels as the roads are covered in salt. Hope your mods are going well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted January 15, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 15, 2013 Waiting, patiently waiting. What's your weight (if you don't mind me asking)? I'll post my results once I have them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 I weigh 160-165 without riding gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazVF500 Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 My bike has 38k miles. there has to be something I am not getting because the manual lists the oil level at 6.89 inches, which is 350mm +/-. I see everyone else here (granted for later gens) talking about an oil level of 100-130mm. Three times the air volumn seems unusual. Wera, do you know if 6th gen springs are interchangible with a 3rd gen? BTW, 6.89 inches isn't 350mm. Its 175mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JamieDaugherty Posted February 2, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted February 2, 2013 A couple of points to mention: Do not run 10w fluid, you should only use 5w in forks. Do not use the volume method to fill the forks. Instead make sure to measure the actual fluid level. Instructions are here, your level should be 130mm -> http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/howto/Forks/forkspringsfuild.html Also on that page you will find the instructions on setting the proper spring preload. This is not the same as the Sonic instructions. The info that comes with the Sonic springs is incorrect and I wish Rich would change it. DO NOT maintain the stock spring preload, instead you should have 15-16mm. You probably won't be able to perform the above with the forks on the bike. It is another 5 minutes at most to remove them, time well spent. I hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.