Guest Jferreira Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Hi guys. I have searched around a bit and can't find anything on this. I just bought a 96 vfr 750 for really cheap yesterday. The issue the bike has is that it doesn't want to idle with the choke off. Also when turning the throttle the bike makes a chugging sound and hesitates for a while. Once it is in the mid to upper range (3k plus) it runs fine. I checked the spark plugs and they look right so I don't think it's running lean/rich. The air filter is clean. The fuel lines seem to be clean. Any ideas what would cause this? My old bandit 400 did this when I first got it but that was a result of some crappy slip on pipe someone Put on it. This vfr is bone stock though so I don't know. It has been sitting for a while but the original owner (a good friends uncle) said he stopped riding it because of this issue.... Any help is greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dallasb Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Looks like you have some clogged low speed circuits in the carbs. In some rare cases, you can get some of the issue worked out with some fuel system cleaner in the tank and then riding it for a while, but usually you have to take them apart and clean them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 What's the best way to clean them out? Which parts specifically? Is cleaning then out possible without completely disassembling them? At the moment I have the bike stripped down to the carbs. I'm just a little wary of messing around with them. I would definetly like to figure it out before putting it all back together. The 16 year old plastics are very brittle haha I don't know how many re assemblies they have left in them. The guy who sold it to me told me he had them cleaned at a dealer when this first started happening and a few weeks later it was running that way again. The dealer blamed it on e85 gas... I feel like it was not the gas but what do I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 25, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 25, 2012 hiya! i will start with i am a honda tech..and i have had lots of VFRs since my 16th bday.. :) YOU'RE GOING SHOPPING NOW!!! 30 bucks.. a one gallon can of GUNK CARB DIP.. this is NOT spray. gunk is the brand. $4a spray bottle of silicone lube. $4 a spray can of carb cleaner.. if you have an air compresser.. that would be great. $15 get 2 cheap pry bars about footlong and a big rubber mallet. $1 each get several aluminium foil baking pans 1x1 or about that. $1 plastic pan the size of a kittylitter tray. $1 a small flat blade screw driver that will be used to get out the pilot jets.. which i can promise you are clogged up. the same size as the pocket drivers the snap-on guts give out. and you should already have a 6 , 7, 8,10 12, 13, 14, 17 18, 19 sockets.. you will only need the 7mm here. $7 a cheap impact driver.. the floatbowl screws may be 'screwed" if others screwed them up. $5 a hammer. first up.. you all ready haver the tank off.. and the air box.. leave the 4 carbs connected!!there is no reason to separate them from the plenum . next.. unscrew the 2 screws holding the throttle cable clamp in place to the carb... and you remove the cable in 30 seconds. since you have the airbox off.. you can how the choke cable come off.. use your finger to slide the choke.. and pull the slack cable out .and remove if from the carb. loosen the front top clamps on the intake boots..and REMOVE the rear 2 place the 2 pry bars under the rear carbs. right where they meet the rear head.. and gently pry them up both at the same time. bet they pop up in 5 seconds. if they dont.. make sure you loosened the clamps.. once removed.. now that the carbs are out.. remove the float bowls. and the jets.. remove the carb tops and the springs and slides.. place the cabs in the foil bottom side down. and shape the foil to get a good fit.. place in another foil pan.. just incase the 1st will leak.. and repeat.. you will now place this in the kitty litter plast tray. pour the gunk carb dip into the foil and let the carbs soak.. drop your jets in there too.. and in a few hours go check them.. if the brass looks like new..and you can see through all of the jet holes. you're ready to rinse it all off.. you MUST rinse it with water until the run off stops turning white. let dry.. or blow it off. blow out all the holes in the carb with air compresser.. or carb spray. reinstall the jets and floats and float bowls, ditto for the slides and tops. lube all pivots with silicone spray..lube all choke slides ect etc.. lube the intake boots.. install the front 2 carbs FIRST! they will pop right in. next.. lower the rear 2 and then place the pry bar tips just inside the lip.. press down on the carbs.. the prybars will act like a shoe horn and presto! your in! ! if not..you may need the rubber mallot to drive the carbs down. install the top clamps and all the other stuff. honestly.. i can never understand why people complain about installing and removing the carbs. my 1st try took 5 min off and 5 min on. that was 25 years ago.. my god i am getting old! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 25, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 25, 2012 What's the best way to clean them out? Which parts specifically? Is cleaning then out possible without completely disassembling them? At the moment I have the bike stripped down to the carbs. I'm just a little wary of messing around with them. I would definetly like to figure it out before putting it all back together. The 16 year old plastics are very brittle haha I don't know how many re assemblies they have left in them. The guy who sold it to me told me he had them cleaned at a dealer when this first started happening and a few weeks later it was running that way again. The dealer blamed it on e85 gas... I feel like it was not the gas but what do I know. down load the manual for pics etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 hiya! i will start with i am a honda tech..and i have had lots of VFRs since my 16th bday.. :) YOU'RE GOING SHOPPING NOW!!! 30 bucks.. a one gallon can of GUNK CARB DIP.. this is NOT spray. gunk is the brand. $4a spray bottle of silicone lube. $4 a spray can of carb cleaner.. if you have an air compresser.. that would be great. $15 get 2 cheap pry bars about footlong and a big rubber mallet. $1 each get several aluminium foil baking pans 1x1 or about that. $1 plastic pan the size of a kittylitter tray. $1 a small flat blade screw driver that will be used to get out the pilot jets.. which i can promise you are clogged up. the same size as the pocket drivers the snap-on guts give out. and you should already have a 6 , 7, 8,10 12, 13, 14, 17 18, 19 sockets.. you will only need the 7mm here. $7 a cheap impact driver.. the floatbowl screws may be 'screwed" if others screwed them up. $5 a hammer. first up.. you all ready haver the tank off.. and the air box.. leave the 4 carbs connected!!there is no reason to separate them from the plenum . next.. unscrew the 2 screws holding the throttle cable clamp in place to the carb... and you remove the cable in 30 seconds. since you have the airbox off.. you can how the choke cable come off.. use your finger to slide the choke.. and pull the slack cable out .and remove if from the carb. loosen the front top clamps on the intake boots..and REMOVE the rear 2 place the 2 pry bars under the rear carbs. right where they meet the rear head.. and gently pry them up both at the same time. bet they pop up in 5 seconds. if they dont.. make sure you loosened the clamps.. once removed.. now that the carbs are out.. remove the float bowls. and the jets.. remove the carb tops and the springs and slides.. place the cabs in the foil bottom side down. and shape the foil to get a good fit.. place in another foil pan.. just incase the 1st will leak.. and repeat.. you will now place this in the kitty litter plast tray. pour the gunk carb dip into the foil and let the carbs soak.. drop your jets in there too.. and in a few hours go check them.. if the brass looks like new..and you can see through all of the jet holes. you're ready to rinse it all off.. you MUST rinse it with water until the run off stops turning white. let dry.. or blow it off. blow out all the holes in the carb with air compresser.. or carb spray. reinstall the jets and floats and float bowls, ditto for the slides and tops. lube all pivots with silicone spray..lube all choke slides ect etc.. lube the intake boots.. install the front 2 carbs FIRST! they will pop right in. next.. lower the rear 2 and then place the pry bar tips just inside the lip.. press down on the carbs.. the prybars will act like a shoe horn and presto! your in! ! if not..you may need the rubber mallot to drive the carbs down. install the top clamps and all the other stuff. honestly.. i can never understand why people complain about installing and removing the carbs. my 1st try took 5 min off and 5 min on. that was 25 years ago.. my god i am getting old! Thanks! I don't have to worry about the rubber in the carbs when letting them soak? About the jets, do they just screw all the way in and out? I don't have to count threads/ turns? This will be the first time I mess around with a carb so I don't want to mess anything up. I have always been told carburetor is French for leave it alone haha. Guess I'm gonna have to ignore that rule this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 25, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 25, 2012 the only one you have to "worry " about is the air fuel mix screw.the stock setting is lean..and set at 1 and 1/2 turns out after being screwed all the way in.. set it at 2 full turns out.. or 4 HALFTURNS.. (its easier to see the screwdriver blade make a 1/2 turn..) ..down load the manual and follow the directions for disassembly and reassembly .. read it and read it again.. and no..any rubber or plastic in the carbs wont be harmed by a 2 hour dip.. just make sure you rince it all off or drop them into a 5 gallon bucket full of water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 And if you don't have the tool to adjust the D shaped screws, you can use a dremel and a cut off wheel/disk and slot them for a flat head screwdriver. When I did mine I didn't have the part for the dremel so I actually used a hacksaw blade and cut through the sourounding aluminum tube down into the brass screw. Seems terrible, but I cleaned it up with a file and steel brush afterwards and it came out really clean looking. And works great when you don't wanna pay for the special tool, or for a set of slotted low speed adjusters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 the only one you have to "worry " about is the air fuel mix screw.the stock setting is lean..and set at 1 and 1/2 turns out after being screwed all the way in.. set it at 2 full turns out.. or 4 HALFTURNS.. (its easier to see the screwdriver blade make a 1/2 turn..) ..down load the manual and follow the directions for disassembly and reassembly .. read it and read it again.. and no..any rubber or plastic in the carbs wont be harmed by a 2 hour dip.. just make sure you rince it all off or drop them into a 5 gallon bucket full of water. So I got the carbs off and went to the store. They didn't have any of the gunk brand dip but they did have the berry man chem dip ( http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&safe=off&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUS384&q=berrymans+chem+dip&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1280&bih=596&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=2179748627749161989&sa=X&ei=y75vT5TnL4Ls0gGF99XJBg&ved=0CFEQ8wIwAA#ps-sellers )so I bought that instead. Is this stuff going to be a problem? It says pretty specifically that it will harm rubber and plastic parts but i would imagine that all solvents say that. I plan to take the carbs apart tomorrow.Wish me luck! First time I am attempting this. I am studying the carb diagrams in the shop manual over and over. Do I even need to remove the air fuel mixture screw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 26, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 26, 2012 the only one you have to "worry " about is the air fuel mix screw.the stock setting is lean..and set at 1 and 1/2 turns out after being screwed all the way in.. set it at 2 full turns out.. or 4 HALFTURNS.. (its easier to see the screwdriver blade make a 1/2 turn..) ..down load the manual and follow the directions for disassembly and reassembly .. read it and read it again.. and no..any rubber or plastic in the carbs wont be harmed by a 2 hour dip.. just make sure you rince it all off or drop them into a 5 gallon bucket full of water. So I got the carbs off and went to the store. They didn't have any of the gunk brand dip but they did have the berry man chem dip ( http://www.google.co...IwAA#ps-sellers )so I bought that instead. Is this stuff going to be a problem? It says pretty specifically that it will harm rubber and plastic parts but i would imagine that all solvents say that. I plan to take the carbs apart tomorrow.Wish me luck! First time I am attempting this. I am studying the carb diagrams in the shop manual over and over. Do I even need to remove the air fuel mixture screw? TAKE THE BERRYMAN BACK!!!!!! SUCKS SUCKS SUCKS AND SUCKS!!!!!! really.. i mean its a complete waste of time with berryman. i think i got my GUNK from autozone.. .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 26, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 26, 2012 ok.. the air fuel mix screw.. composed of 4 parts.. 1 brass screw 1 spring 1 small tiny washer and 1 small tiny rubber o ring get a $5 pick set.. one that has 4 picks one will be shaped like a small v.. that works best in case the o ring doest want to come out. in any case.. relax.. its not brain surgery its just a carb.. the french leave them alone due to the fact that are french ..aka make good wine and cheese and sign language..?? so.. your in america so eat the french! toast and fries that is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 I have over 35 years experience fiddling with carbs on bikes and racecars, clean carbs from several bike fora, and would be happy to clean yours in a thouough, comprehensive manner so that you know they were done right the first time, and i specialize in VFRs. It's very easy to break things or screw something up on your first carb cleaning, and it's not unusual for inexperienced experimenters to need to go back into their carbs 4 or 5 times just to get things better. PM me for more info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I just put it all back together and took it for my first ride. It was awesome (and very cold... damn new england weather). Sure enough when all 4 of the slow jets were miserably clogged up. The main jets were for the most part clean, I guess because the idler jet has smaller holes it clogs easier and faster(duh). I ended up just cleaning all the parts with aerosol carb cleaner and compressed air because I couldn't find the specific dip gll429 mentioned and I was hesitant about dipping all the rubber parts in the stuff I ended up with. The results from just scrubbing and blowing everything out are pretty amazing though. Only time will tell if I will regret not doing the dip. I tried my best to be very thorough though so hopefully *knock on wood* it will remain clean. I cant believe how simple cleaning it really was. I wish I could go back in time to when I got my first bike and slap my self for being afraid to clean the carbs out. Anyways thanks for all the help guys! Life/Money Savers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dallasb Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Great to hear! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Good work, man, and SO FAST !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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