Jump to content

New 92 VFR750. What should I do about the electrical???


Guest vfr750guy

Recommended Posts

Guest vfr750guy

I just bought a 92 VFR750 in great condition. I'd love for it to continue running without a hitch. After skimming through the forums here, it looks as though charging and electrical problems are common.

I have read a number of things about a vfrness, changing the r/r, checking wiring frequently, etc. and I'd like to know a little more about all this.

I am not very electrically inclined, so I'm not interested in doing anything very advanced, but I'd like to do whatever I need to to ensure I don't end up stuck on the side of the road, so here are my questions:

1) what exactly is the electrical problem that is common with VFRs?

2) what can be done to resolve this?

3) should I buy and install a new r/r? is there an updated one for my bike?

4) should I buy and install a vfrness?

5) do I need to keep checking my wires to see if they are melted? If yes, how often should I be checking?

Thanks for the advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
I just bought a 92 VFR750 in great condition. I'd love for it to continue running without a hitch. After skimming through the forums here, it looks as though charging and electrical problems are common. I have read a number of things about a vfrness, changing the r/r, checking wiring frequently, etc. and I'd like to know a little more about all this. I am not very electrically inclined, so I'm not interested in doing anything very advanced, but I'd like to do whatever I need to to ensure I don't end up stuck on the side of the road, so here are my questions: 1) what exactly is the electrical problem that is common with VFRs? 2) what can be done to resolve this? 3) should I buy and install a new r/r? is there an updated one for my bike? 4) should I buy and install a vfrness? 5) do I need to keep checking my wires to see if they are melted? If yes, how often should I be checking? Thanks for the advice.


ill start with what i might do..

1- the electrical problem is the R/R is positioned directly behind the rear headers which does not allow the R/R to loose the heat it makes when working. They work by regulating voltage made by the coils in engine by dissipating heat using convection.
The Honda R/R is up to the job for a while yes, but too much heat build up over time make the components in the R/R brake down then fail.

2- Not a lot as it stands. Apart from regular checks to see how the R/R is performing. Looking for-
Discolored wires which may be loosing there flex, the plugs are deforming in the heat and changing colours.

A practical solution might be to consider relocating your R/R where it gets fresh air blowing on it directly and/or is mounted on a much cooler surface so the heat might be dissipated away better.

3- Only need to buy a new one when you think you can see a change in the condition shown in question 2.
Yes the R/R has been updated and visually includes fins.
They do seem to be more reliable than them without the fins.
But the problem still exists in the end.

4- i made my own vfrness as i noticed the earth from the rr goes into the middle of the rear standard loom..looks like a weak point to me, i also added a few more earths and 2 new positives to the charging wire and to the +battery terminal....also removed the 3 yellow wires from middle of the V(engine) to the left side and relocated the RR there also...

5- I would look at my R/R every service of anything. You need to maintain your bike anyway. Some look at there tires every ride - some don't bother. The connector blocks you need to look at are not that buried in the bike so easy to visually check, a simple pop off the seat to see the R/R and i think you might get a visual of the 3pin yellow one under the right hand side without plastic removal.

If your going on a long journey and will be without support on the road then keep an eye on things more obviously.
Your looking to catch any signs of a meltdown showing its time to replace the R/R as it is unable to perform as you need.

There are no given time periods for the failure, can go at anytime.
But im sure the failure is linear over time. After time you can pick up the signs quicker.
More so with an older R/R than a new... so increase observations as age increases...
I have changed my R/R sometimes yearly when doing real miles on the road, else 2-3 years leisure mileage(pub and back)
Any glitch in electrics tends to be the R/R starting to play up 99% of the time!
I used to swear it at one point- Clocks resetting, flickering lights, lights going pop, any ignition hiccup, any electrical hiccup all signs- bar the usual normally broken bulb. Altho i have had other problems in the past, but they are v-rare like my ignition switch wire unsoldered itself and had me looking for 12month for the problem.
But after 300,000 miles on one bike things do want replacing anyway as they go over there service limits.

Overall- the cheapest and most practical easy and effective way to keep your vfr sparks running is to keep checking the wires as often as you dare. Then replace R/R if anything looks like its not perfect, with constant use they last a year or so, treat them as serviceable parts like rubber wears - it gets replaced.
There are other checks you can use with meters and the like, but no bother for perfection, its all extra unnecessary work if your eyes can tell you all you need to know to replace the R/R in time.
Concentrating your efforts here importantly, its much quicker and cheaper to visually check connector plugs and replace R/R units than to have to rebuild the charging system. Which is what i had to do lol..
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

You should absolutely buy a new wiring harness! The OEM harness is inadequate due to incorrect wire gauge thickness being used by Honda. This causes increased resistance between the stator plug and the wiring harness plug which is located behind the right mid fairing as well as the R/R plug itself. I've owned two 3rd Gen VFR's and both showed signs of burning and melting requiring replacement of the harness. The fix is simple and the old harness can just be left in the frame while running the new harness alongside it. So basically you need to keep a close eye on two connection points. The first point is behind the right rear panel where the harness plugs into the R/R itself (Pic 1) and the second point is where the wiring harness connects to the 3 yellow stator plug wires located behind the right mid panel (Pic 2)

post-14198-0-19103800-1331302633.jpg

post-14198-0-72178400-1331302638.jpg

Check the links below for instructions and the parts you need.

http://www.wiremybik...bd479b700c7ea0b

http://www.wiremybik...bd479b700c7ea0b

http://www.wiremybik...bd479b700c7ea0b

Rollin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Some good advice above. But in addition to looking for burnt connectors and stuff, before you panic, if you dont have a multimeter, go grab one. Their cheap. Harbour Freight sells one for 10 bucks. Other places, Radio Shack, any auto store, Sears, etc. After you get it, make it a normal routine to check voltages at the battery while the bike is running, at idle and at 5000rpm. If your 13ish at idle and 14ish at 5000rpm, sit back relax and grab a cold one as you dont have to spend any money..................... yet.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow! You guys are great. Thanks for all the advice. I really appreciate it.

Bought myself a cheap multimeter, so I'll be checking out the battery voltage first of all.

I will probably order a new battery pretty soon too, as the previous owner has had the bike for 3 years and has no idea how old the battery is.

I'll take the seat and fairings off to see what the wiring looks like and if any upgrades have alreay been done. If not, then in the fairly near future, I will order a new harness and upgraded R/R. I'd rather take care of it early than have it die on the side of the ride or be constantly checking it and wiating for it to fry.

I'm also going to see about a small voltmeter to go on my dash. If anyone has found a good one, let me know.

Thanks again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

1992 and I have a problem along the same lines. Replaced RR, seemed good for 1 ride, but now I have a 'drain'=charging below 12 at battery and ad I rev up charge goes down! what?

battery is new so what causes this drain-the charging coil bad or a bad ground? thanks for any advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I can't see the need to replace the entire wiring harness when the problems are generally confined to the charging system. Replace the offending wires, if damaged. Consider the WireMyBike VFRness (though you can DIY if you're handy with wiring, soldering and shrink wrapping...) and, of couse, an upgraded reg/rec.

Ciao,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.