Guest Gbam Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Okay, I'm still trying to get this issue resolved but, I have made some progress... Starter Solenoid connection toasted along with the fuse 2 months ago. I cut the OEM connector off, added spades, replaced the fuse and off I went. Fast forward a month and a half, bike dies on me in traffic, again. Pull the seat and toasted spade connectors the Yellow and Green/red wires have burnt the connections, again. No lights, no power, no nothing. Now, I tried tracking down the short, unplugged stator and R/R as well as the 4 individual wires for the solenoid.I connect the battery (good, fuse lives) next I connect the two red wires to the solenoid (good!,fuse lives) then the Yellow wire (whatever it is, good, fuse lives) Then the green, POP! Fuse is assasinated (RIP). So, it's related to this small green/red wire as the fuse only blows with iit connected. Now, I also have no lights, no clock, no nothing... My question: What is the Green/red wire? Where does it go? What in the world do I do next, I have no idea what to do! Whatever this wire is connected to has a problem and I would just loooove to get her back up and running again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted October 1, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 1, 2011 if you replace the fuse.. then tun the bike on.. and it pops the fuse right away.. then your r/r is fried. disconnect your r/r...start the bike.. does the fuse pop.. if so.. you have a short someplace.. if not.. turn off the bike plug in r/r... does it pop ? if so.. you have proof of a dead r/r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 R/R and stator are both disconnected... Whatever this small green/red wire is that connects to the Starter Solenoid Relay get's pretty hot and the fuse pops in less than a second after connecting the battery. So, being that the 4 wires are all separate now, I moved the green/red wire to another position on the relay and it blows the fuse too, I'm thinking the relay is okay but the issue is in that wire, wherever it goes and whatever it might be. Also, I have no power at all, no clock, no lights... I'm lost as to what the problem could be. *Edit: Fuse blows with the ignotion in the OFF position. I'm wondering if the little green/red wire is the connection to the starter switch? I'm no electrical guy, it just doesn't make sense to me. I'm mechanically inclined and electrically retarded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 The green wire goes to the clutch diode, the clutch switch and the sidestand switch....My bet is sidestand switch is shorting out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Tightwad, thank you!! I see you posted near 11pm according to the forum time... I found the wiring diagram in the maual (Thank Good for the "files: section!) about that time and read about what that wire is! Thank you very much once again for the help, where would we be without you here on VFRD? Gll, I found a processor fan from an old desktop of ours, I'm going to follow your write up this afternoon! Thanks again. Back on track, okay, So I'll check the sidestand switch connections and see if there's something going on there, them move up the chain I guess... I hope whatever is wrong is VERY obvious! I can't afford to throw much at the VFR at the moment or for a while. Wife's orders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Just had a brain fart... Would anyone know which positions the 4 connections would attach to the Starter Solenoid? I believe it's the 2 reds closest to the fuse with the yellow and green/red in the front, or does it even matter where they are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 I am not sure...hopefully someone with a 4th gen can help! It certainly matters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 I think it may be the same for the 5th gens too, I believe they use the same solenoid/ connection... I'll give it a shot either way when I get the short tracked down. Off to the shed with the multimeter I go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 The green wire goes to the clutch diode, the clutch switch and the sidestand switch....My bet is sidestand switch is shorting out. What am I looking for to determine if the Sidestand swiitch is shorting? The connector looks good at the back of the bike... I'm trying to learn to use a MM on the fly here, soooo, it's a bit more difficult than I thought! Still have to look at the Cluth Diode and Switch which I'm guessing are near the clutch lever.... Still not sure what exactly it is I'm looking for I hope it just jumps out at me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Okay, new info. I have no lights/ no power with the ignition on, BUT when I hit the start switch my brake likes/ running lights come on along with my turn signal lights but NO headlights high or low beam... So, what could be causing this? I don't get it.... No power, no lights, no clock with ignotion ON, I hit the Start button and I get clock, dash lights, and Turn signals but I can't get headlights nor will it try to turn over.... Should I be listening for the starter solenoid clicking? Could this all be caused by it? I'm REALLY lost here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Oh6PearlVFR Posted October 2, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 2, 2011 check the fuse blocks at the front of the bike by the r/r there are two, one on each side. I blew a 10a fuse the other day and it shut down my whole dash and headlights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 check the fuse blocks at the front of the bike by the r/r there are two, one on each side. I blew a 10a fuse the other day and it shut down my whole dash and headlights All the fuses at the front block are good. I'm not seeing any in the rear by the R/R. The 30Amp in the starter solenoid blows when I plug up the Green/red wire though. Not sure why I have no power until I hit the starter switch, everything but the headlights comes on but there's no clicks or anything... This may not get fixed at the rate I'm going, I just don't know what I'm doing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Jumpered the Solenoid with a piece of wire, starter started to turn... I'm thinking most of my issues are with the Solenoid (Bad?) and something maybe with the starter switch since I don't get headlights at all... I thought I read somewhere that the headlights run through the starter switch? Shooting in the dark here... Any input is MUCH appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Are there any 4th Gen. folks out there who have replaced the OEM Starter Relay connection? I have forgotten the position of the wires into the relay! It's probably the same for other gens too, who knows! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trjerm Posted October 5, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 5, 2011 Hi, Just read this post and didn't know for sure, so I just went to garage and pulled seat and battery ground and checked w/ ohm meter. The starter is the one closest to the battery and the battery positive is closest to the eng. Hope this helps. Also looked @ clymers wiring diagram and the g/r goes to the clutch dioide, clutch switch, then ties into spark unit and sidestand switch. Tom I guess I needed that 2nd cup of coffee and I hope my ohm meter is messed up cause I'm showing continuity between - and + terms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Thank you, Tom. I'm hoping to get some time to take a closer look tomorrow sometime, hopefully I can find the issue... I'm wondering if this G/R wire runs through the starter button and maybe the problem is in there? I'm hoping to avoid cuttiing the harness open to trace the wire! Thanks again for checking on that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 The green wire should be grounded if the sidestand is down or the clutch is in (while in nuetral). If anyone has a 4th gen and can describe which color wire goes in each of the 4 terminals, that would be ideal. This may not be the same for new bikes as there are 2 different starter relays (terminals reversed) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Here's what's happening as of now. 1)Bike in Nuetral, Side stand down, little G/R wire is disconnected - No lights or sign of power with the inginition in the on position, kill switch off or on, nothing. 2)Bike in Nuetral, Side stand down, little G/R wire is disconnected - No lights or sign of power with the inginition in the on position, kill switch on, hit the starter button (And hold it down), I get Turns/running lights, brake/tail lights, NO headlights, No clicking solenoid, no starter movement 3)Bike in Nuetral, CENTER stand down SIDE stand UP, little G/R wire is disconnected - No lights or sign of power with the inginition in the on position, kill switch on, hit the starter button(And hold it down), I get Turns/running lights, brake/tail lights, NO headlights, No clicking solenoid, no starter movement Clutch in or out, makes no difference for all of the above. I can jump the terminals on the relay and get the starter to spin though. Although it sparks a lot in doing that, not sure if that is normal When I attempt to plug up the little G/R wire, it sparks like crazy, if I plug it up anyway, fuse blows, wire get pretty hot to the touch right away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 The green wire should be grounded if the sidestand is down or the clutch is in (while in nuetral). If anyone has a 4th gen and can describe which color wire goes in each of the 4 terminals, that would be ideal. This may not be the same for new bikes as there are 2 different starter relays (terminals reversed) I'm looking around on Ebay for a new solenoid as well since this one is pretty chewed up. I thought I read that you can move the two red wires staright to the battery and skip the Solenoid for those guys but, I can't find the post now and my brain is fried from reading all of these electrical posts!! But yes, as Tightwad stated, the positioning of the wires would be very useful!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 How do you know which of the 4 prongs to plug it into? Sparks when crossing the relay are normal...again not a suggested practice but it works. Your issue however sounds much more complex. I need to relook at a wiring diagram to see if I can figure out why you have no power to lights until you press the starter button...kinda backwards there. Are the other wires connected in your starter relay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 How do you know which of the 4 prongs to plug it into? Sparks when crossing the relay are normal...again not a suggested practice but it works. Your issue however sounds much more complex. I need to relook at a wiring diagram to see if I can figure out why you have no power to lights until you press the starter button...kinda backwards there. Are the other wires connected in your starter relay? I was looking through some pictures I had taken the first time the relay connection toasted and I think I have figure out where they go, although, I'm not 100% I have the two large red wired closest to the fuse (I can't tell which one go's where on the back row though) and the two smaller wires up front. It hasn't made any difference which order they are in as of yet being that nothing else has melted. caught fire, or exploded. Solenoid could very well be bad. Now, onto what I have just done: I pulled the front fariing off and think I have found the Clutch Diode (?) It's up at the front near the right side fork. Look like a little relay maybe 1/2" x 1/2" in size, three prongs. Connection there looks good and I can see the small G/R wire into the connection. Pulled the diode and no sparking when I try to connect it to the relay nor does the fuse blow. That's not to say that the issue is farther down the line though, but we're getting somewhere. I pulled the clutch switch, it looks good but I only see two wires connected to it, both black on with a white stripe. Disconnected it, plugged what I believe the be theClutch diode back in and it sparks, remove the Diode, no sparks. I'm pretty stumped... Still no headlight though. I did find that whether the key is in the bike ignition on or off, if i hit the starter button, the running/ turns and tail/brake lights and dash lights light up. Could I have a fried ignition switch causing all of this??? I would imagine the headlight runs through there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Okay, looking at the wiring diagram... It looks like the Head light relays and this pesky G/R wire all share a connection or some sort of block somwhere south of the Clutch diode... So, I don't think the diode is the issue, I think it stops sparking because I pull it and it interupts the connection. I'm thinking that this common block thingamuhjigger (labeled 9P on the diagram) has melted and it's shorting all of the connections. Not positive but it makes sense in my head which means it probably makes absolutely none in any of yours! Anyway, if someone is bored and would like to take a look and verify feel free and let me know if I'm nuts (Okay, I already know the answer to that) or if I have actualy figured something out in this electrical laberynth! <---Did I even spell that right? Edit: OOOookaayyy, in looking at the Wiring Diagram even more... I have figured out why the connector is labelled 9P! I'm guessing it has to do with the fact that there's 9 wires that connect on either end. Good god, how do I manage to even put my shoes on the right feet in the morning. I think I saw this connection under the gauges this afternoon... I'll have another look tomorrow morning before work and see if I can find an issue there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitrousva Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Gbam, if you can bring the bike to my house, I can take a look at it for you. Let me know. Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Gbam, if you can bring the bike to my house, I can take a look at it for you. Let me know. Robert Hey man! I don't have any way of getting it there... It's pulled apart in the shed at them moment, I'm getting closer to figuring it out, I'm pretty sure the problem in at the 9 pair connection, wherever it may be hiding... I just need to find some time to get into it. With all of the kids extra cirriculars, I only get a few mins a day to go over it... I'm hoping to get some time in on Friday after work... If you're available you're welcome to come on by and poke at it with me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 And another update... I pulled the connection (9P) at lunch and everything looks good there, clean and no burning or anything... Clutch switch looks okay, no burning, corrosion or dirt... That leaves me with the Clutch Diode. I guess I'll be picking one up form Honda House here in Richmond and see if that stops the fuse from popping. Not sure if that will cure the headlight issue or what, but it looks to be multiple issues here. Clutch Diode will be first tomorrow... I still need a new starter solenoid though, but I'm not going to pay 80 dollars to Honda when I can get one from Ebay for less than half of that, I just hate to wait! I have to have this running by the 20th! I'll keep you posted, I hope that this will help anyone else with the same issue in the future! Edit: If the clutch diode is bad, would the bike know it's in Nuetral? Nuetral light functions properly as does the side stand switch light. I'm so lost and the light at the end of the tunnel is now fading away! I just want my VFR running again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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